Interesting paint option? PPG areospace anti-chafe coating. Desothane® HS CA8100

One of the interesting things happening on the surplus scene is with Boeing being impacted by the pandemic and also not being able to build the MAX, they have lots of really neat (read expensive) coatings that are passing their best-by dates and passing into the surplus market. While buying some fancy DTM epoxy primer I happened across this stuff, which seems pretty ideal for a machine-tool paint... and it comes in gray. :-)
I'd love to hear if anybody has experience with this product or ideas of why it would or would not work.

I work for Lick Observatory and we've been getting government surplus since WWII, a lot of really tough battleship-gray paint all over everything, so it's sort of a tradition. :-)

From the PPG website:

Desothane® HS CA8100 series military and defense anti-chafe topcoats are Teflon-filled polyurethanes. These topcoats are primarily used on surfaces where abrasion resistance, low friction and impact resistance is required to reduce chafing and wear.

• Excellent gloss and color retention.
• Compatible with Desoprime® HS primers
• Excellent fluid resistance
• compatible with all current spray equipment
• Can be applied in a wide range of conditions
• Service temperature -54°C to 177°C (-65°F to 350°F)

Here's a link to the P-sheet, or what would be a P-sheet if it were an automotive paint product:
http://www.ppgaerospace.com/getmedi...litary_Desothane_HS_Anti-Chafe_1.pdf?ext=.pdf

We use this stuff often in assembly, this stuff is GREAT!

as9100d said:

We use this stuff often in assembly, this stuff is GREAT!

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Good to hear. Do you think it would stand up well as a machine-tool paint though?
How fussy is the application?

I mean its overkill for sure but it should make a great machine too paint. Im personally cautious about this type of stuff since we dont really know the long term effects for these paints in terms of cancer and whatnot but that said im overly cautious and the level of PPE I require in my shop is stupid for whats recommended.

Who thought roundup would cause such nasty cancer? its just a simple liquid right?

That said we use lots of epoxy paints, primers, and resins and cancer free for 12 years.

Application isnt too fussy, just adhere to proper prepwork before mixing

as9100d said:

I mean its overkill for sure but it should make a great machine too paint. Im personally cautious about this type of stuff since we dont really know the long term effects for these paints in terms of cancer and whatnot but that said im overly cautious and the level of PPE I require in my shop is stupid for whats recommended.

Who thought roundup would cause such nasty cancer? its just a simple liquid right?

That said we use lots of epoxy paints, primers, and resins and cancer free for 12 years.

Application isnt too fussy, just adhere to proper prepwork before mixing

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Overkill sounds like just the right amount to me.
Considering the alternative for me is automotive urethane with ISO-cayinate hardener, I can't imagine it's all that much worse: tyvek suit, gloves, and supplied-air full mask. Anything I'm forgetting?

Roundup: anything designed to kill stuff and keep it dead is high on my list of things to stay away from. Well, I guess I'm around a lot of lead designed to be applied at high-velocity and the tools to do it... of course there are those who would argue that's a safety hazerd too. :-\

I don't suppose you have a picture or can elaborate of the color, gray is pretty non-specific. :-)

That should work for ppe. It also has great coverage so only mix a little at a time. It will harden in the pot like any other epoxy. We do small parts and mix up very small batches at a time to keep the heat low.

I don't have any photos I can share. I'll see if I have some expired in the cage I can whip up a color sample for you.



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as9100d said:

That should work for ppe. It also has great coverage so only mix a little at a time. It will harden in the pot like any other epoxy. We do small parts and mix up very small batches at a time to keep the heat low.

I don't have any photos I can share. I'll see if I have some expired in the cage I can whip up a color sample for you.

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I appreciate the information, don't go out of your way to make a sample though. I don't have to match a particular color and I'm pretty sold on the idea so I'll buy a kit and try it out on a Monarch 10EE I'm working on.
I did just buy a lot of PPG 44GN011 Water Reducible Epoxy Primer, reading both tech sheets it looks like they should play nice.
The tech sheet specs some weird esoteric cleaners for equipment clean-out, in my world lacquer thinner is usual, what do you use?

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I don't suppose you have experience with the PPG Desothane HS Clear Coat CA8800/b900 ?

We use MEK to clean pre-degreased parts.

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as9100d said:

We use MEK to clean pre-degreased parts.

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How do you clean out your gun (assuming you spray it)?

I'd have to check but I think they use MEK



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I used some of my fancy aircraft anti-chafe paint yesterday, looks light tool-gray to me, which is fine.
Solvent base and guns *really* nicely when mixed per directions and run through a .8mm tip with 20psi at the regulator.
I ran it through a HF detail gun so if it turned out to be impossible to clean I could just chuck the gun and not be too upset.
Hides very well. The way it lays it looks like there is less on there than there what's there so it will run if you let it fool you. Once I realized that and noticed the call was for four coats it went great.
$100/gallon off ebay makes it cheaper than any new auto urethane. Do have a spare can on hand to hold the activator, I destroyed the can getting mine open. Cleans up easily with Lacquer thinner, so no problem there.

I smeared the paint on one panel so that was my opportunity to see what it would be like to sand and touch-up.
That paint sets up tough! The next day I sanded that panel, it wasn't bad on the edges where the force per unit was pretty high but block sanding on the flat almost didn't happen. I had to put new(sharp) paper on the block in order to really make decent progress.

teletech said:

Anything I'm forgetting?

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Sure as Hell.

That premium-priced, but rock solid performing single-component industrial coatings such as Benjamin-Moore "Super Spec" will get the JOB DONE, by spray, roller, or even BRUSH with but a tiny fraction of the effort or nastiness exposures.... and can even be touched-up by spot painting ..for a decade or several thereafter.

I class that as "overkill enough" compared to Rust-Oleum "hammer" finishes.

Which will also get the job done.. and remarkably well, actually.

But resemble Harbor Freight hammer gray. So THAT's off MY menu.

My local Benjamin-Moore store was able to custom blend "Rock Moss Green" from code numbers another PM Brother posted. Also mix MY choice off the same colour charts they have for residential decor paints.

Your exotic coating has colour choices and touch-up-ability?

All I gots is "Old Iron" to cover. The faster-than-light spaceship is still on the dammed drawing board 'til I figure out where Norman Dean went astray...

thermite said:

Sure as Hell.

That premium-priced, but rock solid performing single-component industrial coatings such as Benjamin-Moore "Super Spec" will get the JOB DONE, by spray, roller, or even BRUSH with but a tiny fraction of the effort or nastiness exposures.... and can even be touched-up by spot painting ..for a decade or several thereafter.

Your exotic coating has colour choices and touch-up-ability?

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Hey, use whatever brings you joy. I just thought the properties of this might make it a good choice for machine paint.
I've previously used the KM equivalent to the "super spec" and apart from the long dry time and awful lingering chemical smell I liked it well enough.

According to the tech sheet, you can roll or brush this product as well.
Actually, I'm much happier using a paint that requires good PPE but is done out-gassing in an hour or two compared to the industrial enamels that will give me a headache days later if I stand too close.

I gather it can be had in colors and perhaps tints, but I have a full tinting rack of PPG automotive urethane and didn't paint the machine before because I couldn't decide on a color, sometimes choice is a curse. :-)

I can't speak to the touch-up but don't expect it to be a problem.
It is true that the industrial enamel will sit nicely in a can for decades and still work, not likely the epoxy.

I just saw this thread and cannot offer any insight about the paint, but I recently started using the disposable 3m pps system on my little Devilbiss EGA gun and it has been a revelation on cleanup. Immediately chuck the cup in the trash, turn the gun over and squirt Laquer thinner in the gun paint inlet, spray till clean and yer done. And the cups come in little sizes, I use 3 oz. size the most. Not a salesman, just a happy user, who was tired of throwing out paint and cleaning guns.

daryl bane said:

I just saw this thread and cannot offer any insight about the paint, but I recently started using the disposable 3m pps system on my little Devilbiss EGA gun and it has been a revelation on cleanup. Immediately chuck the cup in the trash, turn the gun over and squirt Laquer thinner in the gun paint inlet, spray till clean and yer done. And the cups come in little sizes, I use 3 oz. size the most. Not a salesman, just a happy user, who was tired of throwing out paint and cleaning guns.

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I've been using PPS for some months now and agree it really is nice for cleanup on the harder to clean products. The integrated filter is lovely for paint at risk of inclusions (like old enamel). One of the really nice things about the PPS idea is you can spray in any orientation without spilling paint, this has been really helpful when working in awkward spots The cost isn't insubstantial so it being worthwhile depends on what your time is worth and how hard it is to get rid of cleaning solvents.
One can buy cheap knockoff consumables for about half of the genuine item, the main issue with that stuff is the two clip-tabs are vastly inferior to the screw top and leaking is an issue. Solution, cut the tabs off the filter top and run it in your gen-1 PPS hard-cup.
The knockoff items don't seen to come in 3OZ but since the hard cups are for 6OZ anyway I've been using those and the bump in capacity has actually been great for my needs. A 6OZ cup will allow you the range to spray a complete small fender of all the removable panels on a Monarch 10EE for instance, or if it's a seal coat, both. :-)