M.B. Naegle
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2011
- Location
- Conroe, TX USA
Has anyone ever done it?
I ask as I have a couple new straight edge's and one re-machined one that are going to need a coating of some kind. My 24" I painted in light blue hammered-tone to match my old Biax. It's held up well enough but has gotten a few chips over the last 2-3 years and the light blue color doesn't stay clean. Part of it is also that I didn't sand the rough casting down that much so the bumpy painted surface while providing grip, also lets dirt stick to it. So sanding these next straight edges a little better would help.
I'm wondering if a thick Japanned finish would be more durable than a thick paint? I've read that it's labor intensive (like scraping!), to the point that it almost isn't worth the effort unless you are trying to exactly recreate the finish of an old tool for a museum, BUT... if it is more durable, I might give it a shot. Of all the old hand tools I've worked with that still have the smooth black Japanned finish, some were chipped and cracked, but most seemed like it was a bulletproof finish, or at least much more abrasion resistant.
The straight edges I'll be doing are the "generic" curved back type that I asked about here: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machine-reconditioning-scraping-and-inspection/identifying-straight-edge-patterns-357498/.
I found a DIY formula here: ElMorain Japan, that is essentially Asphaltum, Turpentine, and Linseed Oil that is brushed on thin and allowed to get gummy between coats, then baked. I have all the materials for it, with the exception of an oven that will fit the 48" casting.
I ask as I have a couple new straight edge's and one re-machined one that are going to need a coating of some kind. My 24" I painted in light blue hammered-tone to match my old Biax. It's held up well enough but has gotten a few chips over the last 2-3 years and the light blue color doesn't stay clean. Part of it is also that I didn't sand the rough casting down that much so the bumpy painted surface while providing grip, also lets dirt stick to it. So sanding these next straight edges a little better would help.
I'm wondering if a thick Japanned finish would be more durable than a thick paint? I've read that it's labor intensive (like scraping!), to the point that it almost isn't worth the effort unless you are trying to exactly recreate the finish of an old tool for a museum, BUT... if it is more durable, I might give it a shot. Of all the old hand tools I've worked with that still have the smooth black Japanned finish, some were chipped and cracked, but most seemed like it was a bulletproof finish, or at least much more abrasion resistant.
The straight edges I'll be doing are the "generic" curved back type that I asked about here: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machine-reconditioning-scraping-and-inspection/identifying-straight-edge-patterns-357498/.
I found a DIY formula here: ElMorain Japan, that is essentially Asphaltum, Turpentine, and Linseed Oil that is brushed on thin and allowed to get gummy between coats, then baked. I have all the materials for it, with the exception of an oven that will fit the 48" casting.