Richard King
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN 55016
I figured I should start a new thread so I don't get accused of Hi-Jacking the Feather-lite thread where I was going to write this. I want to make sure everyone knows I am writing so "all" can learn while we are discussing planning now.
I used to have a Cleveland Openside and I would first set up the straight-edge the same way pretty much but on the edge of the table so I could feed down past the flat and not have to worry about gouging into the table. Plus on a thread where I showed the readers that you machine the side of the casting first because some planers like Stephen Thomas planer was worn on the ends when you stand up the SE you won't get it flat as the planner table will rise up on ends, but planning on the side the rise doesn't matter. (still looking for that thread when I taught Stephen that)
Here is a great group of photo's. Note this can be done with all brands of SE's and parts needing planning.
48 inch straight edge planing
That is found in this old thread:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...law-straight-edge-my-way-doing-anyway-326602/
I would also use a flat tool with a small radius on the leading edge not a round cutter. Look at last picture on post 3. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...laning-straight-edge-287285/?highlight=Planer and the pictures in the dropbox pictures. The large radius tool I believe pushes away as it cuts and the flat pulls in as it cuts.
I used to sometimes mount Kurt Vise on top of table too and grab SE on back flat side so I didn't introduce twist in by clamping. Other times I would put the dovetail side into the table T slot and plane the flat back side first so I would start the 2nd cuts using a know flat surface. I am sure others use other ways. I am just pointing out different strokes for different folks. Rich
I used to have a Cleveland Openside and I would first set up the straight-edge the same way pretty much but on the edge of the table so I could feed down past the flat and not have to worry about gouging into the table. Plus on a thread where I showed the readers that you machine the side of the casting first because some planers like Stephen Thomas planer was worn on the ends when you stand up the SE you won't get it flat as the planner table will rise up on ends, but planning on the side the rise doesn't matter. (still looking for that thread when I taught Stephen that)
Here is a great group of photo's. Note this can be done with all brands of SE's and parts needing planning.
48 inch straight edge planing
That is found in this old thread:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...law-straight-edge-my-way-doing-anyway-326602/
I would also use a flat tool with a small radius on the leading edge not a round cutter. Look at last picture on post 3. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...laning-straight-edge-287285/?highlight=Planer and the pictures in the dropbox pictures. The large radius tool I believe pushes away as it cuts and the flat pulls in as it cuts.
I used to sometimes mount Kurt Vise on top of table too and grab SE on back flat side so I didn't introduce twist in by clamping. Other times I would put the dovetail side into the table T slot and plane the flat back side first so I would start the 2nd cuts using a know flat surface. I am sure others use other ways. I am just pointing out different strokes for different folks. Rich