Rambaudi V2 mill clean and repair - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 170
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    A question for you guys, what is a good method of cleaning the electrical compartment

    resize-img_6454.jpgresize-img_6455.jpgresize-img_6457.jpg

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    27,263
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    8502

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbine Builder View Post
    A question for you guys, what is a good method of cleaning the electrical compartment

    resize-img_6454.jpgresize-img_6455.jpgresize-img_6457.jpg
    Suction-feed air blast nozzle and ignorant mineral spirits was what they USED TO use. Flammable as Hell, of course. Then a Freon-based cleaner, or trichlor, believe it or not. What did we know about holes in the Ozone or br bra bari DAMMIT! ...."brain" cancer?

    All we knew is neither of 'em kilt folk as Carbon Tetrachloride was wont to do. Time was, we were still using that in fire extinguishers.

    Brake-Klean definitely NOT.

    I'm back to 409, chip brushes, and "organic" Ethanol - the kind that does NOT use Methanol for the denaturant - then shop-vac outlet, compressed air, hair-dryer.. wotever.

    Clean it DRY first! The more of the rocks and dog hair removed, the less solvent you'll need.

    Electrical "contact cleaner" is only really for... contacts. Not terminals. (Go figure..) And rheostat sliders.

    2CW

  3. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post
  4. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    OK thanks, will brush out all the loose dirt first and try a bit of Ethanol or some mineral spirits and dry with compress air.

  5. Likes thermite liked this post
  6. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    I got the rest of the components off today, and got the main body of the mill onto a pallet jack so i can move it in and out of the work shop for cleaning and prepping for painting. Also got the original manual for the mill.

    resize-img_6462.jpgresize-img_6463.jpgresize-img_6464.jpgresize-img_6470.jpgresize-img_6471.jpg

  7. Likes thermite liked this post
  8. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    Had to do some other projects that needed to be done , but now back on with the mill project. Started to clean the main body of the mill and the coolant tank. Clean out all the sludge out of the tank and degrease, did a test with a wire wheel on a angle grinder to remove the lose paint, body filler, rust made the job easy Clean up the machined surfaces. Dose any one know what would a good metal body filler, like maybe automotive body filler
    Cheers,
    Mark.

    resize-img_6516.jpgresize-img_6517.jpgresize-img_6518.jpgresize-img_6523.jpgresize-img_6527.jpg

  9. Likes Sachmanram liked this post
  10. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    resize-img_6519.jpgresize-img_6520.jpgresize-img_6525.jpgresize-img_6526.jpgresize-img_6524.jpg

  11. Likes Sachmanram, cyanidekid, Richard King liked this post
  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    5,758
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    268
    Likes (Received)
    1455

    Default

    Automotive body filler is fine You have some grades in them and I pick the grade that sands the easiest
    I would wash the sump with lye

    Peter

  13. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post
  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    Thanks Peter,
    I can only get caustic soda here in AUS but i think Lye is caustic soda Also i watch a you tube vid and the chap was restoring a bridgeport mill and he use lemon on the machined surfaces, I'm not sue if that to remove the stains I use scotch brite pads and WD40 to get rid of the rust but hard to get the stain out

    Cheers,
    Mark.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    5,758
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    268
    Likes (Received)
    1455

    Default

    For rust and stains I use a toiletcleaner/rustremover which is for the most phosoric acid and some inhibaters
    Any toiletcleaner with over 50% of pfosphoric acid will do IMHO
    Citric acid also works but not as good I think
    Yes Lye is the same thing as caustic sode Be carefull with the stuff Works really well on degreasing but burns you up

    peter

  16. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post
  17. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New York
    Posts
    1,517
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    840
    Likes (Received)
    656

    Default

    [QUOTE=Turbine Builder;3128737]A question for you guys, what is a good method of cleaning the electrical compartment

    Looks like it’s got some decent bones there, interesting “split stubby leadscrew” config too.

    For the first go-round on dusty electrics I like a paintbrush and a decent vacuum cleaner held close by, DO go anti-static if it got any chips, (the integrated curcit types!)

    any fluid type cleaner at this stage will Just make a muddy mess.

    I like your style, you seem to pick your iron with reasonable care before dragging it home, that’s a smart way to start out. Lord knows, I dragged home some questionable junk in the beginning. Would NEVER do that now..

  18. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post
  19. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    OK good idea yeah i remember about caustic sode thanks for your help will get down to the hardware store and pick up those items.

  20. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    Thanks mate, yeah i first use a small brush which didn't do much so i use a bit of degreaser in a spry can and dry with compress air all good. I was looking for this type of mill for a couple of years, i did miss out on one last year. Just do your home work first and decide what type of machine you want to buy remember persistence will pay off

  21. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New York
    Posts
    1,517
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    840
    Likes (Received)
    656

    Default

    might want to get a pre-mixed sodium hydroxide (lye) cleaner, its much safer to handle and they work great. we here have something that calls itself Zep industrial purple H/D cleaner degreaser. isobutal alcohol and lye. its the mixing of the dry with water that can "explode" on you. take care, full face shield and rubber apron if you go that way

  22. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post
  23. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    Yeah Peter from Holland mentioned using Lye. Yes will have my PPE on.

  24. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    Just a short update, done some body filling on the main body of the mill and it failed. I rush into the body filling process so spent a couple of days removing the body filler which wasn't sticking to the metal. So will sand the base of the mill back to bare metal and the top part sand back to the original body filler and add primer.
    resize-img_6599.jpgresize-img_6600.jpgresize-img_6601.jpgresize-img_6602.jpgresize-img_6603.jpg

  25. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    resize-img_6604.jpgresize-img_6605.jpg

  26. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    After some more sanding got the first coat of primer on, I'm happy with the results. Have stated work on the knee as well.
    resize-img_6606.jpgresize-img_6607.jpgresize-img_6608.jpgresize-img_6609.jpgresize-img_6610.jpg

  27. Likes cyanidekid liked this post
  28. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    RSA
    Posts
    1,101
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    394
    Likes (Received)
    279

    Default

    Looks super! Great choice of color, too.

    What I do of late is to paint in a gloss enamel and once stone dry I apply one coat of eggshell enamel. I find it gives a more forgiving kind of surface.
    A problem I have ( here in RSA ) is that enamel paints started to be very slow to dry - some sort of new formulation, I believe.

  29. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post
  30. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    144
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    71
    Likes (Received)
    43

    Default

    Thanks mate, will be using Dulux metal shield Quick Dry Alkyd Gloss Enamel for the Topcoat. The colour will be a bit darker grey to the grey primer.

  31. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Greenfield, MA
    Posts
    275
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    48
    Likes (Received)
    46

    Default

    The brake shoes on your machine look utterly identical to the ones on a TOS FNK25a. Are the shoes 10mm in height and about 152mm wide? That is the size of the ones on the FNK25a. If so, you can still obtain the shoes, with applied liners, from TOS, so perhaps the liner material is still available as well. Not sure what kind of adhesive would be used in that application.

  32. Likes Turbine Builder liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •