refurbishing a KO Lee grinder w/pics

I am reassembling my B860 KO Lee cutter grinder and not sure how the saddle for the Y axis is actually lubricated. I have cleaned up and stoned the mating surfaces between the main casting and the saddle with precision ground stones. The main casting ways(which are removable)are pretty clean and are out of parallel by about 0.0015 on the back. The ways on the saddle are somewhat gouged up a bit but you can still see the scraping marks. They are also not worn too much, maybe up to a couple of thousandths on the back end. When I took the saddle off it was so gummed up that I couldn't discern what type of lubrication was, or should be used. The top of the saddle has a lubrication well and spring loaded wicks to lubricate the X axis ways. I plan to use the same way lube I use on my Harig 6x12 surface grinder.
I am also considering scraping a few passes on both the Y axis ways to hold some lubrication. Especially because there is no accommodation for adding new lubrication after assembling the saddle.

Also any ideas about surface grinding the removable ways to parallel? How about scraping a pattern on them when finished?

Any advise or ideas are certainly welcome.

Thanks

from the photo's I wish you would ID the parts. Top is the base ways? 2nd is bottom of saddle ways that ride on the base ways (1) ? 3 & 4 are close up's of flat saddle ways or number 2?

I would have the taper ground out of the bolt on ways If you can slide in some .0005" plastic shim under the center so it grinds the bolt on ways end up concave a little. If you can set the saddle (2) on 3 points on a bigger machine grind the saddle ways flat and co-planer. I am assuming the saddle ways are cast iron? If they are then I would just square cut them and 1/2 moon flake them. It is difficult to see if the scraping you see is original as K) Lee did not have good scrapers IMHO. The pictures show a more cosmetic flake on face of table.http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1738/17221.pdf Those marks on bottom of saddle do not look like a pro did them. But just before KO Lee went bankrupt it is possible they didn't have anyone left who knew how and did that. You could also drill in some new oil ports use some elbow oil cups from Gitts. Here is a manual showing parts. Lousy brochure..K. O. Lee Co. - Publication Reprints - Parts List for B600 Series KO Lee Grinders | VintageMachinery.org Or just stone it and put it back together. It is off .0015 in 12" and the cutter your grinding is what 1/2" You will never see an error.

Richard
The top photo is the base casting with the two removable ways laying on the casting. They bolt on two raised locations on the casting. There also are rollers on the sides of these to keep the saddle centered. The second picture is a closeup of the removable way surface that meet the saddle. The third picture is the saddle with the ways exposed. The removable way is just laying on in the center of casting for scale.The last picture is of a closeup of those ways on the saddle.
Yes the removable ways are out of parallel by about .0015 as are the saddle ways also. I was considering surface grinding the removable ways to bring them flat and co-planer.
The ways on the saddle are cast iron, not sure about the removable ways for the base casting, seems to be hardened steel.
If you need more pictures I can provide them.

Here is a video of the same machine and the ways I am refering to. Start at 16.00 into the video and it will show what I'm talking about.

YouTube

Thanks for the response.

Skipd1
Thanks

You may think this is some super accurate machine, but it's a toy and not very accurate machine when it came out of the factory. I didn't watch the YT with sound and ran it on fast after a few minutes..... To much noise and finger waving imho. I would grind removable bars parallel and the same the thickness. You need to turn your indicator so the stem is parallel to the part. Also you don't press down on the bar your testing showing us it isn't twisted.

Lets see the top of the saddle and table. Does the table run on rollers? Making sure to measure and record everything to ground or machine. From the video your measuring the table on the machine in X & Y, but have to tested the table? Miked it or measured on a plate so you know it is good? table is lifting from sag because something is not adjusted right, more then something needs scraping. As I said before when your grinding a tool bit and it's 1/2" thick the error is not noticeable.

Those small pads that are under the removable ways is where I would adjust the taper on Y by scraping or shimming. The machine is a toy compared to others on the market and simple as heck. The cam screw nut is neat. If the saddle was right in the beginning it should be easy to scrape down the unworn surface until the area's where the rollers wore. Not sure your asking for help or want us to watch your You Tube channel. There have been others who tried that on here before.

I realize that this machine is not as accurate as better machines, however this is the best machine I can find in my location for the price. I just want to refurbish this to as original and as practically possible with the tools and experience that I have. I am just a retired hobbyist and want to use this machine to make better lathe and machine tooling and learn to sharpen the tooling I have. The video I posted was only to show the same machine that I have. I do not have a You Tube channel and I am not affiliated with the individual or the channel that was posted!!
My only reason for posting here is to acquire the best information I can get to refurbish this machine.


This is a picture of the top of the saddle with its V and Flat ways.

This is a picture of the bottom of the mating top table and its ways

The ways on these are in considerably better shape due I believe to having a decent lubrication system with oil well and wicks.

It sounded as if you were, sorry about that. I still think you would be money ahead to just retofit an oiler to the saddle base ways and put it back together.

okay, thanks