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Rehabbing an Edgemont 6SF Clutch

Torquin

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Location
Powhatan, Va.
This clutch is from my Monarch 12CK. I took it apart because it was rattling and annoying me. Now that I have it apart, I am looking for someone to reline the clutch frictions.

Additionally, I have found that there are spring-loaded ball bearings pushed into holes around the OD of the clutch plate that have worn way into the pulley the clutch plate rides in. I believe these bearings have two reasons, 1. to keep the clutch plate "floating" inside the pulley, and 2. to keep it from rattling. With the wear that the balls have out in the pulley I am thinking or drilling all new holes, offset by .5" or so, in the same pattern, one to front and one to rear, all the way around, then putting new springs and balls into it. I see some dimples in the pulley that are not worn, and I do not think had balls wearing against them ever. These suggest that the balls were supposed to mate with the dimples to locate the plate. I am thinking these aren't necessary as the clutch plate ride between the front and back "pressure" plates and it won't matter.

I am hoping some of you more experiencing machine restorers can shed some light on this design and let me know what the best way to proceed will be.

Third, the dogs (key stock) and the notches they fit into on the clutch plate, are worn. As the clutch plate is cast iron, there is no building it up. But I am thinking I can just cut the notches wider, to take out the wear areas, and then make new dog, of a custom width, to take up the space in those notches.

Please have a look at the attached pics.
2017-03-21 16.18.28ss.jpg

2017-03-21 16.18.44ss.jpg

2017-03-21 16.18.15ss.jpg

2017-03-21 16.19.55ss.jpg

2017-03-21 17.07.02ss.jpg
Thanks,
Chris
 
You might have better luck asking this in the Monarch forum. I would suggest you take it to a company that relines clutches for cars and trucks. Many of the old time car repair shops not someone like Midas. I have done that a few times over the years and it worked out after several phone calls. Rich
 
As far as the forum, my thinking is that since I got no response on how to get this clutch apart, in another thread, people in the forum may not know about this clutch design, so I figured I'd try the restoration forum as people doing restoration may have run into designs like this in the past, even if they aren't Edgemont.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I never knew you asked in the other forum as I only pay attention to this one on a regular basis. I'm curious what forum are you a moderator on? Seems your new with only 60 posts. How did you get to be a moderator?
 
I never knew you asked in the other forum as I only pay attention to this one on a regular basis. I'm curious what forum are you a moderator on? Seems your new with only 60 posts. How did you get to be a moderator?

Another reason I posted in a different forum than the Monarch-specific one.
I have no idea why it says moderator. I'm just awesome I guess. :smoking:
No, really, it's always been that way. I don't even know how to get to moderator options, if there are any, so I just didn't worry about it. Maybe it helps keep the rif-raf in line. :D

Thanks,
Chris
 
This clutch is from my Monarch 12CK. I took it apart because it was rattling and annoying me. Now that I have it apart, I am looking for someone to reline the clutch frictions.

Additionally, I have found that there are spring-loaded ball bearings pushed into holes around the OD of the clutch plate that have worn way into the pulley the clutch plate rides in. I believe these bearings have two reasons, 1. to keep the clutch plate "floating" inside the pulley, and 2. to keep it from rattling. With the wear that the balls have out in the pulley I am thinking or drilling all new holes, offset by .5" or so, in the same pattern, one to front and one to rear, all the way around, then putting new springs and balls into it. I see some dimples in the pulley that are not worn, and I do not think had balls wearing against them ever. These suggest that the balls were supposed to mate with the dimples to locate the plate. I am thinking these aren't necessary as the clutch plate ride between the front and back "pressure" plates and it won't matter.

I am hoping some of you more experiencing machine restorers can shed some light on this design and let me know what the best way to proceed will be.

Third, the dogs (key stock) and the notches they fit into on the clutch plate, are worn. As the clutch plate is cast iron, there is no building it up. But I am thinking I can just cut the notches wider, to take out the wear areas, and then make new dog, of a custom width, to take up the space in those notches.

Please have a look at the attached pics.
View attachment 194343

View attachment 194344

View attachment 194340

View attachment 194341

View attachment 194342
Thanks,
Chris

I know this is an old tread but I am in the exact same repair.

Your clutch disk has been modified by someone that didn't understand the failure. The keys on pulley hold the clutch disk in place. When these get warn, the clutch disk will rattle. Looks like someone tried to minimize the rattle with spring ball bearings rather than replace the keys and check wear on the slots in the clutch disk.

I am having my disk relined and new keys made. I may need to machine two new slots in the edge of the disk to correct for wear.

Clutch 1.jpg
Clutch 3.jpg
 
Well, I got a place in CT to reline the clutch. It turned out nice. After I got it back I did what I said, and offset the holes around the perimeter and installed the springs an balls again. I also Fixed the dogs (keys), by cutting the clutch slots back to even and making new, larger, dogs to the the clutch where I had enlarged it. For a while it was quiet as a church mouse but now some of the ringing the clutch was doing before has come back. Dang if I can tell why as everything is very tight in there now.

2018-11-02 15.31.04s.jpg


ALL FRICTIONS CO., LLC
Attn: TIMOTHY J. DORAN
131 FREESTONE AVE.
PORTLAND, CT 06480-1819
PH.# 860-342-2001
FAX# 860-342-2084
[email protected]
ALLFRICTIONS.COM

Thanks,
Chris
 
Was looking through my info collection on my 12CK and ran across this gem.

Clearly OP overpaid, since he could buy all new parts fro $32.60......70years ago. :D
a2299335e8a852e1c3210b6c0d32de8c.jpg
 
Eureka! Edgemont clutch is still in biz, right here in Oklahoma.

They'll fully rehab your clutch and are very easy to talk to.

Mecco Edgemont
918-583-3060
1025 E 2nd St, Tulsa, OK 74120
 








 
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