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Source for carbide scraper blades

marka12161

Stainless
Joined
Dec 23, 2016
Location
Oswego, NY USA
I need to get myself set up to do some hand scraping. Mostly lathe cross slide flats and in a few cases some very tight areas like in the cross slide dovetails, compound rest dovetails etc. I've told myself i'll need a couple of different size blades. I've found plenty of insert blades on ebay but these all look a bit too beefy to get into the really tight spaces. I realize i may need to braze the carbide to the handle which isn't a big deal for me. Can anyone recommend good sources for these blades?

Also, while i'm at it, what's the consensus on the best stock to build the scraper shank out of? Is it as simple as hot rolled bar stock?

Mark
 
I'll see if I still have a collection of "blanks".

These are just square pieces of carbide you can make whatever you want out of them - but it will definitely help to have a selection of diamond wheels and something to spin them

I need to get myself set up to do some hand scraping. Mostly lathe cross slide flats and in a few cases some very tight areas like in the cross slide dovetails, compound rest dovetails etc. I've told myself i'll need a couple of different size blades. I've found plenty of insert blades on ebay but these all look a bit too beefy to get into the really tight spaces. I realize i may need to braze the carbide to the handle which isn't a big deal for me. Can anyone recommend good sources for these blades?

Also, while i'm at it, what's the consensus on the best stock to build the scraper shank out of? Is it as simple as hot rolled bar stock?

Mark
 
I'll see if I still have a collection of "blanks".

These are just square pieces of carbide you can make whatever you want out of them - but it will definitely help to have a selection of diamond wheels and something to spin them

Thanks John. I picked up a six inch Baldor Carbide tool grinder. It came with a green wheel and a diamond wheel that looks to be a bit beat up. I think the green wheel is probably serviceable for rough shaping. Can you recommend a good source for new wheels? I found them on MSC but they are a bit pricey. Also, what grits would you recommend?
 
How much of the carbide do you want to grind yourself?

Once i get my grinder set up, i'm very comfortable grinding anything i use. As noted in my reply to John above, i have a 6 inch carbide tool grinder but am looking for a good source for wheels and some recommendations on what grits to buy.

Thanks
 
Once i get my grinder set up, i'm very comfortable grinding anything i use. As noted in my reply to John above, i have a 6 inch carbide tool grinder but am looking for a good source for wheels and some recommendations on what grits to buy.

Thanks

Besides the 6" OD, need to know the wheel mounting specs. I have a 6" which takes rim mounted wheels. For it, the finest grit for diamond wheels I found was 150 so far. Reading old posts I saw recommendations for 220 or finer on finish grinding for way scraping, with about a 5 degree angle on cutting edge, and approximate 3" diameter rounded edge.

Shars has a bit of a variety:
Search results for: '6" diamond wheels'
 
Once i get my grinder set up, i'm very comfortable grinding anything i use. As noted in my reply to John above, i have a 6 inch carbide tool grinder but am looking for a good source for wheels and some recommendations on what grits to buy.

Thanks

The good news is "green grit" WILL shape them. The bad news is those are high friability wheels. Intentionally. That's HOW they work. So you'll go through them like Sherman's march from Atlanta to the sea. Shaping is what you'll do. Coarse grit is OK.

"On the other hand".. ONCE your blanks ARE shaped? The blanks hold up really well (or at least the Sandvik's do..) with but a Glendo - or similar - diamond grit for touch-up. You'll not need to go BACK to the green-grit very often.

Sandviks turn-up even on eBay in five-packs at decent prices now and then. There is a "code" to them that can be looked-up, even "right here", on PM".

Conventional wisdom is that ALL as-issued Sandviks need a different radius applied for King-style use. That, too, has been covered on PM.

OTOH, if there is any BETTER Carbide blank for scraping? I don't recall mention of it.

I'm sure others can work, and DO work - Dapra/Biax, most obviously .. if you have the tool, and not-only.

Then again so does HSS still "work".

It's mostly a matter of how much of a nuisance they are to keep sweet.

Don't be afraid to also utilize HSS or even HCS for those odd and tight places.

By definition, you'll be removing less metal than larger areas. Easier to shape & re-sharpen, especially when small? Good-enough offset for the shorter working life of an edge.

2CW
 
You'll want to ditch the green wheel - they wear rapidly, do a fairly crappy job of grinding carbide, and make a heck of a mess with the abrasive dust.

Get roughing and finishing diamond wheels, and even better a secondary diamond lapping setup to truly finish the carbide edge. A good edge will last longer and cut better, meaning you'll have an easier time doing the work.
 
Strongly suggest a low speed Accufinish diamond grinder. They aren’t made new anymore, but are frequently available second hand. As others have said, you want a quick, easy way to touch up your scraper. I’m now touching up every half hour and this makes the project go so much faster and gives more consistent results. (Thanks Other Brother for that tip)

L7
 
Strongly suggest a low speed Accufinish diamond grinder. They aren’t made new anymore, but are frequently available second hand. As others have said, you want a quick, easy way to touch up your scraper. I’m now touching up every half hour and this makes the project go so much faster and gives more consistent results. (Thanks Other Brother for that tip)

L7

"Consistent" is greatly aided by a stable and repeatable rest and radius guide.

ISTR ewsley made a video of his shop-fab one when he was still scraping? It wasn't overly complicated

His Glendo wheel ONLY - sans motor- is here now. Selectable as to SFM/RPM?

My stash of Dee Cee motors and KB-Penta Controllers made that part the easiest.

Less hassle on small motors than a Vee Eff Dee but.. oversize motor for its flywheel effect. Single-phase DC pulses are cruder than 3-P off a VFD. Same again a "router controller" on AC.

Nature of each beast. A belted ratio instead is not a bad idea.
 
Thermite, I meant consistent on the scraping job with frequent resharpening, but yes, also easier to get consistent sharpening.

L7
 
Thermite, I meant consistent on the scraping job with frequent resharpening, but yes, also easier to get consistent sharpening.

L7

Well if you do NOT have the "same blade" when you resume as when yah paused 'coz the sharpening has altered the geometry a tad at each go?

It does kinda tend to throw yah off stride while you "adapt", yet-another-time?

Mind.. I am not "a scraper"!

Too stubborn as to hanging onto good sense to ever pass muster!

:D
 
here attached is the part nos for blades and shaper ( sandvik)View attachment 317473View attachment 317474

sandvik have made the gear, unless you really want to make your own from scratch......up to you.

I didn't actually have any "problem" adapting to their handle. Like it better than the "Eclipse", anyway.

But there's a lot of "personalization" to it. Height, body mass, muscle tone, and muscle "memory" no small part of that.

So I figure several PM'ers have made nicer ones? At least to suit THEIR needs?

My favrit' - since elderly muscles are both weaker, and tire more easily, and I shed any chance at developing "belly push" when I shed 60 lbs - is a "pull" scraper with a Goldilocks "just right" - for ME, anyway - bit of spring to it that Peter in London made several of.

Been covered. "Right here, on PM".
 
I took the time saving way out, and went with the Dapra set up with the Richard King discount.

357.jpg

The handcraper handle itself came with the short silver extension. I had also ordered the 120m extension which is the same length as the included extension, maybe a waste for the 120m but one may be springier than the other, couldn't say yet.

Also got the 130m which I think will be maybe the right length for my arm length.

The 25/25 carbide blade. Its currently rounded on two opposing edges, from Dapra that way, but I don't see a reason not to sharpen all 4 edges. Nearly an inch square if you don't know commie metric :D.

And the control gage which has 3 different radius gages, and a sharpe scraping edge to clean work as you go.
 
Hi Mark - any blanks show up yet?

Yup, blanks showed up yesterday. Perfect for my needs. I also picked up a couple diamond wheels for my tool grinder so i'll be all set to shape and sharpen them once get the grinder set up.

To anyone following this thread, the USPS is exceedingly slow these days.

Thanks again
M
 
Yup, blanks showed up yesterday. Perfect for my needs. I also picked up a couple diamond wheels for my tool grinder so i'll be all set to shape and sharpen them once get the grinder set up.

To anyone following this thread, the USPS is exceedingly slow these days.

Thanks again
M

Been getting worse the last few years here also. Good luck with your project, share when you have time.

Charles
 
The whole carbide scarper blade or tip world strange indeed.
Many want to make, some can not do tops but do front edges.
Does the rad matter? If so how tight or is there a correct rad?
If resharpen which I think most do over and over what is that rad or ellipse.
Does the resharp to your mod work better for you than new?
Do you "tweak" this in contour or front angle for behavior? The oh-shit thing of I do not like that grind, edge or cutting action?
This a art and every artist different in stoke and brush.
 








 
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