Surface grinder restoration, please help... - Page 3
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 46 of 46
  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN 55016
    Posts
    7,455
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4019
    Likes (Received)
    4460

    Default

    In my PROFESSIONAL opinion you would be insane to put it back together with out scraping some lubrication pockets on the worn smooth ways. You can call me and I can help you learn how to scrape some pockets,, Email me at [email protected] and I'll send you some info.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Country
    CANADA
    State/Province
    Alberta
    Posts
    16
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    30
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Thanks Richard,

    That is a very generous offer. I really appreciate your help. I will send you an email right away. I did find a local guy who can do it but im still waiting on a price.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    9,669
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3282
    Likes (Received)
    3458

    Default

    Oil scalps on the long travel table would not take much time, *be sure he knows it is just oil retaining scalps and not a scrap-in-true job.

    Good to wait for Richards advice. I have ideas about it but better to listen to Richard.

    That machine is worth a full scrap job.. likely be comparable(better than most) to a top quality new machine with a actual scrape job. Hard to find such a machine today... with having oil scraped iron ways.

    I have ran brand new ball and roller way machines and think they don't run as smooth as a oiled way scraped machine with iron or plastic ways. Plastic ways are fine they just don't take as much abuse and poor maintenance. Ball way machine are rarely maintained properly..easy pull long-travel ball or roller tables should come off every year for a cleaning.

  4. Likes Stang Bladeworks liked this post
  5. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN 55016
    Posts
    7,455
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4019
    Likes (Received)
    4460

    Default

    Just say cut and flake only for oil pockets, stone the surface and oil grove edges afterwards, if your short of cash. That should only be a few hours work. If he does a rescrape for accuracy of base, saddle, table and then grind the chuck. You looking at 30 to 50 hours if he knows what he is doing. Add another 15 hours for the column. Probably not worth it for a hobby machinist. Oh and if he rescrapes the table take off the mag chuck and scrape the top of table just to break it up as under there it is work hardended from the rust and it will help relax the iron. If he doesn't do that and scrapes the table and then you grind the table it will warp a bit and he will need to touch the bottom up a bit. Be sure he or you use a lot of coolant when you grind the table and chuck. I would also only have him 1/2 moon the unexposed to the air parts and scrape square cut the exposed. 1/2 moon flaking using the regular biax blade cuts about .002" deep and scraping usually is from .0005" max depth. Flaking the exposed to air on any machine can cause grit or chips to enter the way system. If he has any questions have him call me. 1 651-338-8141 Your welcome!

    PS: Most important is to blow out the oil passages and stone the scrape marks, then wipe everything with your hands so you feel the dirt before assembly.

  6. Likes michiganbuck, Stang Bladeworks liked this post
  7. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN 55016
    Posts
    7,455
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4019
    Likes (Received)
    4460

    Default

    I emailed stang and mailed him a dvd today. So he should be able to do it himself soon.

  8. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Country
    CANADA
    State/Province
    Alberta
    Posts
    16
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    30
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    I got your email, cant wait for the DVD I'm sure it will be a huge help. I did find a guy locally who came recommended from several machine shops. He said he normally wont take on small jobs like this but he would fit me in. He said if I bring him the parts he can do a scrape job and fix a few things for $800.00 CAD. This will get me up and running. He said the table may be warped a bit due to the age and its current condition. If things are a bit out he said he can help me out. I sent him a link to this thread and he took the time to read it and answer all my questions.

    This way the machine will get proper lubrication and be a bit better of so I can continue working. At the same time I don't want to waste Richards generous offer. My intention is to study his materials and practice until I am happy with my results. Then I will take the machine down and do a complete scrape job to get it as good as possible.

    I mentioned putting the machine back together with no scraping and everyone felt that was foolish. I read you loud and clear. I also want to keep progressing on my project. I don't want to rush and do a bad job scraping it myself. This seems like a good compromise. Let me know what you guys think of this plan. This way I can learn how to scrape properly at my own pace and give the machine a proper upgrade when I'm ready but not further damage it in the mean time.

    The gentleman I spoke with over the phone who will be overseeing the interim scrape job seemed very knowledgeable and helpful. I don't think he is steering me wrong. Based on what I have learned so far his price seems fair. He told me he would usually charge $2500 for something like this.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •