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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Make up a few spotters for common need sizes to lay on your chuck with having a tab of masking tape on top.
    This so you can go to size with not taking the part off to measure or measure before you grind. When you spot (grind on) the marked tape you are .003 (or what the tape thickness) to size. This saves a ton of time.

    Often you go over a spotter and hand (spindle parked) feel the spotter to know the dial number target.

    Gun blue your spotter face then use the side of your Dremal wheel to make a nice but very shallow marking of the size. (shallow so you can skim .005 if that size is no longer needed, and then use/mark that spotter for another size needed

    Back when I was looking for work I was grinding flat industrial knives and the like to 32".

    *warning; to bump into an unexpected high place is often that cause of a burn or a crash ..
    Good to pass over a part with spindle parked / or come to/over work slowly from the grind side (not the climb side) Grind side is the table long travel going to the right on most grinders.

    One can come straight down with parked spindle to hand feel the part. raise .010, and parked travel across so see you clear ..and then fire-up and only have .010 to worry or to make the part touch. Yes hand rotate the wheel as you feed down. finger slammed a sharp part of the air pick-up guard.. another error

    *Good to jog start a cold spindle..->fire to half speed/ let go slower then fire up to grind.

    *Always dress a wheel put on a/any grinder..You or somebody trying an undressed wheel is dangerous.

    I have a little finger that is 1/8" (3mm) short because an apprentice, after being told a number of times mounted and walked away from a bench grinder with not dressing a new fresh mounted wheel. Yes still my fault being dumb and in a hurry.
    Thanks.
    Good idea about the spotter and it will give me some practice with the machine. I dropped the parts off today. Hopefully ill have it together soon.

  2. #82
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    When grinding thin, long parts, I dress rough, angle part across the chuck and move table fast. Block it in. Make block ins specifically for your blades.

    Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

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  4. #83
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    Maybe we should start a new thread in the abrasive section and go into these tips. Many will never see them in here..Buck you are well known...maybe you should start it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    Maybe we should start a new thread in the abrasive section and go into these tips. Many will never see them in here..Buck you are well known...maybe you should start it.
    Thanks Richard, I have been around the block on grinding as also many here have been...likely you have a lot of very fancy grinding under your belt. I'm just the guy who is willing to stick my neck out and get beat-up by some who have their own special way.
    I did start keeping record of my posts and some techniques I have never posted.
    Some things the old grinder hands do are dangerous for the new guy and I don't want to get blamed for an accident.
    You can bet your boots in a shop like Cash has, that some very fancy grinding is done every day, and has top grinder hands.
    I am thinking about manufacturing some of the dressers I have made, and perhaps offer a surface grinder's book with them.

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    Stang often you grind a chuck after scraping.. If you intend to grind your chuck let us know what wheel you intend to use..some of the guys here might give some good advice.

    I used to have some special made 46k white wheels that were about 60% concentration, they were the berries but I don't know anyone making them today. They looked like pop corn being so full of holes. These were the best chuck grinding wheels. Sorry I am out of them.

    If closer I would come grind it for you and then do some panning.

    Here find the radiac wheel description, it is a little different.
    http://www.georgiagrindingwheel.com/...iac/ic_pg2.pdf

    (9A - WA and RA seem to run the coolest (to me)

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Stang often you grind a chuck after scraping.. If you intend to grind your chuck let us know what wheel you intend to use..some of the guys here might give some good advice.

    I used to have some special made 46k white wheels that were about 60% concentration, they were the berries but I don't know anyone making them today. They looked like pop corn being so full of holes. These were the best chuck grinding wheels. Sorry I am out of them.

    If closer I would come grind it for you and then do some panning.

    Here find the radiac wheel description, it is a little different.
    http://www.georgiagrindingwheel.com/...iac/ic_pg2.pdf

    (9A - WA and RA seem to run the coolest (to me)
    Thank you. As soon as I source some wheels ill let everyone know what I found. I really appreciate all the help and tips. I will grind the chuck but ill get some practice in first.

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    So far the painting process has been aweful. I have found some john deere paint that seems to work. None of the department store paint worked at all. It stayed tacky for days. My real problem is with removing the old paint. It has several layers of different paints. I have tried wire wheels, abraisive wheels, paint stripper, wire brushes, brake cleaner, acetone and no matter what there is a black goop residue left behind. The wire wheel gets the outer layers off easy but this black residue is not easily removed. It can be removed with a screwdriver but it is painfully slow. Chemicals dont seem to break it down. Maybe its some old oil based paint that didnt fully cure. If anyone has any ideas i would appreciate it. Thanks.
    20190802_161104.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stang Bladeworks View Post
    If anyone has any ideas i would appreciate it.
    Sandblast or bring it to a commercial paint strip place that can put it into a hot caustic bath.

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    Over the years I have tried all of the above and found the best luck is to scrape it off with a hand scraper with a carbide blade. Once you get the hang of it, it peels off. Be sure to wear safety glasses and spread some tarps or plastic on the floor as it will fly everywhere. Then use an orbital sander with 40 grit wheels and sand it. Wipe everything with the expensive lacquer thinner and let it dry. I used to use a good paint brush or a foam paint roller. I also used a Wagner airless paint sprayers on the big machines. A auto body spray gun will cloud your shop. I never used it again. Once was enough.

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    Stang, sir
    As fur your paint issues.. look up "japan black". Give some turpentine a chance on the black goop. Oh and thanks for starting this thread.. I've learned alot about grinding and even though this thread is in the machine rebuilding section I think it needs a sticky.. Lots of good info all around.
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    PS rustoleum industrial grade paint seems to cover a host of sins on old iron, seems to be more compatible/tolerant of oil/coolant residue than other paints..

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    ......And good to wear a dust mask for sanding or spraying. Some old castings are surface filler repaired so stripping bare can make it a tougher job... Rustoleum is good as also is tractor paint but they take days to solid up. Second coat put on before under coat is dry makes them take even longer to dry.

    What would be a good surface filler and also easy to sand? Perhaps some guys here know.

    An old painters trick was to was to second coat lead based paint before the first coat was dry..and then the under coat would take forever to dry. A year later you could still dent it with your fingernail. But that way it lasted long and would strip easy even a few years down the pike.
    No I am not suggesting lead paint, just explaining how paint needs to dry.

    OT
    QT Richard { I also used a Wagner airless paint sprayers on the big machines. A auto body spray gun will cloud your shop. I never used it again. Once was enough.
    Very good point, I have suggested an air-less sprayer to my son in law Rob at the deer blind shop and he balks at the suggestion. Our painter guy says they take a lot of paint..and that is exactly what we need/sure beats missed places and the cloud. Brushing misses places also, often needing going over twice.
    Slayer Outdoor Products - Home | Facebook

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    Stang, Measure what wheel diameter will fit you wheel guard? I have a very cool running Carborundum 46 I white AO wheel that likely will beat any wheel you will find... with not calling Radaic for recommendation.

    Private message your address to me.
    *Still technique is every bit as important as the wheel selection.
    One has to do the drill or fail.
    Last edited by michiganbuck; 08-03-2019 at 01:59 PM.

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    Here a few white and pink wheels wheels I might pick for chuck grinding.

    None as open as I would design a chuck grinding wheel but OK to good. IMHO



    Norton AO Surface Grinding Wheel 8” x 1.25” Hole x1/2” 46 Grit Qty-2 66253043883 | eBay

    Radiac A030031 Ruby Surface Grinding Wheel-Size: 8" x 1/4" x 1-1/4" | eBay

    Radiac A105023 Ruby Red Surface Grinding Wheel Size 7"x 1/4"x 1-1/4" | eBay

    Agree I would not choose a 1/4" wide wheel so this makes only one wheel in the 16 or so pages...

    Ops, had to cut the one white wheel because it was a SC wheel/ not many wheels in 16 pages of EBay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    Sandblast or bring it to a commercial paint strip place that can put it into a hot caustic bath.
    unfortunately moving it is not easy. it took quite a bit of effort just to get in place. I wish I could do this but it just wont work for me. I would need to get a few people just to get it on a pallet so I can load it onto a trailer. Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm afraid I may have to do this the hard way...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    Over the years I have tried all of the above and found the best luck is to scrape it off with a hand scraper with a carbide blade. Once you get the hang of it, it peels off. Be sure to wear safety glasses and spread some tarps or plastic on the floor as it will fly everywhere. Then use an orbital sander with 40 grit wheels and sand it. Wipe everything with the expensive lacquer thinner and let it dry. I used to use a good paint brush or a foam paint roller. I also used a Wagner airless paint sprayers on the big machines. A auto body spray gun will cloud your shop. I never used it again. Once was enough.
    Thanks, so far I have used a wire wheel to expose the black goop then used a gator rust remover disk to get rid of most of the goop. I have them been getting into tight areas with a chisel. It is slow But I think Ill be able to get it done this way. My grinding room looks like the inside of a coal mine right now. Hopefully I will at least be able to prime this weekend. I have found a spray tractor paint that works well. I will post some pics when its painted. I think it will look good. This paint job was a much bigger undertaking than I realized. When its all said and done I will post up what I used so other people may have an easier time in the future. I did pick up an orbital sander based on your recommendation but I have yet to try it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by calvin b View Post
    Stang, sir
    As fur your paint issues.. look up "japan black". Give some turpentine a chance on the black goop. Oh and thanks for starting this thread.. I've learned alot about grinding and even though this thread is in the machine rebuilding section I think it needs a sticky.. Lots of good info all around.
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    PS rustoleum industrial grade paint seems to cover a host of sins on old iron, seems to be more compatible/tolerant of oil/coolant residue than other paints..
    Thanks, I will look into it. I spent about 6 straight hours today with an angle grinder so I think I'm almost done. That way sounds much easier than what I have been doing. I have also been learning a lot from the people here. Tons of great info and suggestions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    ......And good to wear a dust mask for sanding or spraying. Some old castings are surface filler repaired so stripping bare can make it a tougher job... Rustoleum is good as also is tractor paint but they take days to solid up. Second coat put on before under coat is dry makes them take even longer to dry.

    What would be a good surface filler and also easy to sand? Perhaps some guys here know.

    An old painters trick was to was to second coat lead based paint before the first coat was dry..and then the under coat would take forever to dry. A year later you could still dent it with your fingernail. But that way it lasted long and would strip easy even a few years down the pike.
    No I am not suggesting lead paint, just explaining how paint needs to dry.

    OT
    QT Richard { I also used a Wagner airless paint sprayers on the big machines. A auto body spray gun will cloud your shop. I never used it again. Once was enough.
    Very good point, I have suggested an air-less sprayer to my son in law Rob at the deer blind shop and he balks at the suggestion. Our painter guy says they take a lot of paint..and that is exactly what we need/sure beats missed places and the cloud. Brushing misses places also, often needing going over twice.
    Slayer Outdoor Products - Home | Facebook
    Good point, I have been wearing a respirator this whole time, I think I would be dead already otherwise. This paint dust is very fine and I cant imagine its too good for you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Stang, Measure what wheel diameter will fit you wheel guard? I have a very cool running Carborundum 46 I white AO wheel that likely will beat any wheel you will find... with not calling Radaic for recommendation.

    Private message your address to me.
    *Still technique is every bit as important as the wheel selection.
    One has to do the drill or fail.
    Thanks, I appreciate that. The wheel size is 7x(1/2)x(1-1/4). I cant measure the exact tolerance right now because every single part is dismantled. It didn't look like you could fit a larger wheel on though when it was all together. If that works let me know and Ill send my address over. Let me know what a fair price is and I will pay pal or e transfer you the funds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Here a few white and pink wheels wheels I might pick for chuck grinding.

    None as open as I would design a chuck grinding wheel but OK to good. IMHO



    Norton AO Surface Grinding Wheel 8” x 1.25” Hole x1/2” 46 Grit Qty-2 66253043883 | eBay

    Radiac A030031 Ruby Surface Grinding Wheel-Size: 8" x 1/4" x 1-1/4" | eBay

    Radiac A105023 Ruby Red Surface Grinding Wheel Size 7"x 1/4"x 1-1/4" | eBay

    Agree I would not choose a 1/4" wide wheel so this makes only one wheel in the 16 or so pages...

    Ops, had to cut the one white wheel because it was a SC wheel/ not many wheels in 16 pages of EBay.
    Thanks, I will check these out.

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    Thanks for all the replies everyone. I will post up my progress later this weekend. For now this is where I stand. My grinding room looks pretty bad right now. Im pretty sure I have simulated grinding 10000 knives in the last 2 days. A serious clean up is in order.
    20190803_124039.jpg


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