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  1. #21
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    richard, im not touching the ways, if i ever do it i have to prepare myself equipment and time wise and start from the ground up (saddle ways).

    im reluctant to grind the top, maybe someone did that over the scraping and its convex now. so i leave the table top and underside of chuck both convex?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dian View Post
    richard, im not touching the ways, if i ever do it i have to prepare myself equipment and time wise and start from the ground up (saddle ways).

    im reluctant to grind the top, maybe someone did that over the scraping and its convex now. so i leave the table top and underside of chuck both convex?
    I am not the scraper guy Richard is...but if mine and apart/open I would run a fine grit new condition hone over all the way surfaces to assure there are no bumps, dents or bugs at the surface before closing, and clean everythim very well so no abrasive can fall in, and apply a coat of way oil. ...

    . Likely I would run a lne of scrapes to be/fill with oil....but the checking for bugs and the like i would do for sure...

  3. #23
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    yes, i cleaned and checked the ways for burs. i thought about flaking it, but there is no stick-slip and i will have to decide if i want to recondition it or get another one. i was always afraid to take the chuck off, but now that i know the surfaces are in pristine condition its a matter of minutes to take off the table again.

  4. #24
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    i relieved the middle area of the chuck. it hinged correctly on the table top, so i bolted it down.

    5. as measured from the spindle, the chuck is flat lengthwise but rises one thou from front to back. i am reluctant to grind the chuck at this point, because im getting slight ripples in the finish and it seems not to be a trivial undertaking. (i planned to just dust it to get rid of some waviness.)

    should i scrape the bottom? how bad an idea is it to shim it? i could also grind the bottom, but i only have one wheel and no idea how it would do on cast iron.

  5. #25
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    QT; [ because im getting slight ripples in the finish,,]
    Slight ripples don't matter much at all. The chuck will be flat with having them..

    *Trick/chalange is to grindthe chuck with not burning it..becaus a burnt chuck is very bad.. and in a couple years you might hone the ripples flat.
    You might grind a sample and check ripples with a tenth insicator..

    You said you have only one wheel..? the wheel may be water loged /out of balance /causing the ripples.

    Still if you are done with the ways and only .001 0ut of falt..If me, I would (wet) grind the chuck top. Taking a good long time and a pause off at each side so to keep super cool.
    and buy a new wheel if having any doubts about the wheel.

    Yes you can shim the chuck with a .001 at the high side and a .0005 under the center being off to a tad so still flat and nbt bending the chuck over shims..*this is a poor method but would work....
    Yes, to get this you may need .001 and .0015 shims.

  6. #26
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    i never ground a chuck. will the "brass" load up the wheel?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dian View Post
    i never ground a chuck. will the "brass" load up the wheel?

    It isn't normally a problem. The steel sections seem to clean the wheel as the brass loads it. It's better if you grind with coolant. But the modern 'brass' chucks are far better than the older 'lead' ones. They could load up the wheel very easily.

  8. #28
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    If the wheel has brass load up it will likely cause ripples, drag down the RPM and cause the grind to burn the finish.

    With a fresh dress you should be able to grind .001 from a chuck.

    Diamond point dressing should clear the wheel of load. If the wheel is coolant loaded and so running out of balance dressing won’t make the wheel right.

    I remember when some guys would scalp out the lead from a chuck claiming the it would load up the wheel. They had round nose scalp scrapers for doing this task. I was the apprentice so never argued the subject. Perhaps it did load a little, but still I could take my time and dry grind a chuck. or with much less time and with using coolant. I had ground chucks with not scalping in my Smith Hughes Tec class a number of times. I was considered the grinder guy in that class, but my favorite was lathe work.
    The lead scalped out chucks were harder to keep clean with grit and grinding swarf getting into the scalps.

    Yes, if chuck grinding loaded up a wheel one would just have to re dress, then come down parked to hand feel the wheel to the chuck... Or paper slip feel the wheel to the chuck.


    Paper trick @ 3:23 (Don Bailey) Much good information here so watch the whole thing.
    YouTube


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