Richard King
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN 55016
Charles asked me to write about "tests" I did over in Austria back in October 2019 on Brayers / Ink Rollers. We also tested spotting inks. I will write this in sections as I'm a bit under the weather.
Some of you know I came up with 5 RULES of Scraping. # 5 in "Cleaning with your hand to feel the dirt. We found this to be the key when spreading all the inks and using the rollers.
I wrote up a thread on Facebook this morning on the Norwegian Machinist forum and I will link and cut and paste that to this now as I won't need to type it all over again. I tried to link it to the Facebook forum, but it doesn't work. I have my own company forum there plus there are others worth joining.
Cut and paste of what I wrote:
I used to use Dykem High Spot blue in the 1970's -1980's and loved the print I got from it, but it stained your skin, granite surface plates and clothing. I started using Canode in the 1990's and used it until 2019 when Tom Lipton introduced me to Charbonnel during a California class. In Tests we made last October in Austria where I taught classes we tested several inks available in the USA and Europe. Canode, Charbonnel (water based. They also sell an oil based that we did not test), Diamant, Stuarts, Russian water based bluing sold on Ebay and Dyhkem. Everyone hated the Dykem because of the staining, hated the Russian ink as it smeared super easy even when applied thin; I like the Stuarts, other did not. We discovered if we made a thin paste mixing Canode 80/20 Charbonnel. Mixing in a small 2" diameter x 1" deep glass jar, then dabbing it on the plate with a 1/4" artists paint brush. We used the Charbonnel Prussian water based we got the best result.
Pic's: Inks we used minus Canode in Pic. Showing Canode I introduced to Europe in the 2017. BIAX Germany now sells it in Europe as they paid for the Testing.
Some of you know I came up with 5 RULES of Scraping. # 5 in "Cleaning with your hand to feel the dirt. We found this to be the key when spreading all the inks and using the rollers.
I wrote up a thread on Facebook this morning on the Norwegian Machinist forum and I will link and cut and paste that to this now as I won't need to type it all over again. I tried to link it to the Facebook forum, but it doesn't work. I have my own company forum there plus there are others worth joining.
Cut and paste of what I wrote:
I used to use Dykem High Spot blue in the 1970's -1980's and loved the print I got from it, but it stained your skin, granite surface plates and clothing. I started using Canode in the 1990's and used it until 2019 when Tom Lipton introduced me to Charbonnel during a California class. In Tests we made last October in Austria where I taught classes we tested several inks available in the USA and Europe. Canode, Charbonnel (water based. They also sell an oil based that we did not test), Diamant, Stuarts, Russian water based bluing sold on Ebay and Dyhkem. Everyone hated the Dykem because of the staining, hated the Russian ink as it smeared super easy even when applied thin; I like the Stuarts, other did not. We discovered if we made a thin paste mixing Canode 80/20 Charbonnel. Mixing in a small 2" diameter x 1" deep glass jar, then dabbing it on the plate with a 1/4" artists paint brush. We used the Charbonnel Prussian water based we got the best result.
Pic's: Inks we used minus Canode in Pic. Showing Canode I introduced to Europe in the 2017. BIAX Germany now sells it in Europe as they paid for the Testing.
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