Turcite/Rulon vs using bronze - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    To install any wear strip you must "prepare the surface it will be glued to. Clean, scrape, mill or grind the surface flat so you don't have to scrape off a lot of the material. I have used several types: Phenolic, Rulon, Turcite, Moglice, Nylatron, Nylon, bronze, brass, iron, etc. One must sweat out the oil out of the old iron before gluing and wipe with white clothes until no dirty oil is on the rag when using a fast drying solvent before gluing. Follow the Mfg. instructions of the glue and recommended amount of glue. Also you need to practice the install before gluing. I hate the way some post on here, that's why I am reluctant to write much anymore.

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  3. #22
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    A lot of great comments and thoughts. I understand some may be general info or ideas, and not specific to what I might be getting involved with, but I like the food for thought. Helps think around corners a bit.

    I'm a big believer in "we stand on the shoulders of giants". So having the giants chime in is really helpful to us all.

    Again I don't know what thickness numbers yet, but for my project I fully expect I will be milling the vee and flat way on carriage to get them flat. Most likely all the surfaces for cross slide as well. The tail stock base to bed ways, I'm not sure, I'll see how good or bad it looks with a straight edge, maybe I can just scrape that.

    Once tail stock base is scraped in, I want to use it as a trolley to get a real good read on bed ways for carriage. I suspect I may grind at least vee way and outer flat way of bed for carriage. So whatever the outcome, I'll mount qcgb, apron, lead screw etc to determine how high I need carriage to rise. Pure speculation at this point, but I suspect the thickness will be great enough to use any material.

  4. #23
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    Before machining, look for unworn areas and measure them to add into the figures you get from what you remove while machining and how much was worn. Remember the epoxy usually is approx. .005" thick. I usually use plastic shim to estimate the thickness before cutting the Rulon. I bring back the slides as close to new plus make them a a little high so that as they wear they get better then putting them exactly zero zero. As I said if you need any more info, Private message me. I also have a really good friend and student in Austin who I am sure would help you. He also has a nice Rockford Planner he just installed in his shop. I hope all of you who live in Texas are surviving. Rich

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  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Pure speculation at this point, but I suspect the thickness will be great enough to use any material.
    Not to forget the real experts on bonding are in the Defense, Aerospace, Aircraft construction and maintenance, automotive production and repair industries.

    The need is greater. The stakes are higher. The volume is off the charts.

    Lord (and not ONLY) formulate adhesives with glass beads of precise size that assure thickness CANNOT be squeezed-out below a set minimum. Pick your bead size.

    The bonds are greatly stronger and more reliable. They are also EASIER to "get right" even when moving fast. Some of the adhesives are specifically formulated to work well even with poor prep on oil or debris contaminated surfaces.

    I get mine from "Chemical Concepts".

    Go Ogle will find them.. and several competitors.

    You CAN make a "deep pockets" labour of love out of chasing the limits.. for years.

    But you need not.

    I prioritized workholding, tooling, and even left enough money I could afford to buy some METAL!

    Go figure!



    Oh. And I hope all people everywhere are "surviving. Rich". Himself included. Not just Texians.

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  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post

    You CAN make a "deep pockets" labour of love out of chasing the limits.. for years.

    But you need not.

    I prioritized workholding, tooling, and even left enough money I could afford to buy some METAL!


    I agree with this, and your previous comment about not pulling war time shifts.

    I can't imagine I'll ever do production work, or high efficiency type stuff. Its not my backround or mindset. I do more repair type stuff as a trade, and machines can help me in that. Or custom one off type stuff. So my machines will never see 8-10 hour shifts 5-7 days a week.

    I'm actually fine using worn machines . I'm slow and careful with set ups and just run a lot of checks along the way .

    My goals are not perfection. I'd say my real goals are more modest, just to improve. Improve myself, improve the machines a bit. But, still balance the budget like you're thinking. I think getting the rocking horse out of tail stock, cross slide, and saddle is real doable and I kind of regret not giving it a shot previous. But we live and learn, grow and other sappy sentimental stuff right ? I just feel I'm ready and capable to have a try.

    In the past week I bought a 36" camelback straight edge, a 16" straight edge for dove tails, hand scraper and accessories, canode yellow and blue inks. That puts me about $1200 into it. And I already own a mill. I haven't seen my results yet , but I truly feel I can make surfaces flat and improve/add bearing surface. Besides the Monarch, I have two other major projects and two lesser projects. Even if I only "improve" some pieces or surfaces, it will be worth it.

    Yea, bed ways can get expensive. But I will be doing my best balancing act between budget and and getting it right. I have some ideas about that, but that's a different long topic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    In the past week I bought a 36" camelback straight edge, a 16" straight edge for dove tails, hand scraper and accessories, canode yellow and blue inks. That puts me about $1200 into it.
    .
    .

    .. I will be doing my best balancing act between budget and and getting it right. I have some ideas about that, but that's a different long topic.


    We'd best catch up by email on that. I've gone off and made a "research project" out of it, not a rebuild one, but..

    $1,200?

    Got about that much in:

    - what I have paid SEVERAL others to scrape FOR me
    plus
    - NON-Foster Featherweight SE's
    plus
    - MORE in Foster Featheright SE's
    plus
    - Surface plates
    plus
    - grinders
    plus
    - About twice that in Optical gear

    "Etc"

    IOW? Prolly stick another "zero" on the right end.. or insert a "1" on the left end of that $1,200

    Then again?. I don't have any pressing need to "make chips" ... at all.

    Just satisfy curiosity.

    LEARN whatever I can - most especially about alternatives .... to one thing or another.

    Because it's still a bit of fun..

    And I never was worth a damn at dancing...


  10. #27
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    I had a 1 hour phone chat with Cody of Moglice today and we discussed the TS situation today. I'll fill you in tomorrow on some of what he said.


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