What paint do you recommend for a lathe reconditioning?

freddygotarf · Jun 29, 2014

I have picked up a Lion C11MT also known as Mashstroy lathe
that I'm fixing up. I would like to repaint it before installing it.
What paint do you recommend that's tough to use on machinery?
Is there any specific prep work that's recommended other than sanding?

smic1978 · Jun 29, 2014

Hello Freddy

Recently i repaint mine mashstroy c11 mtm. I rubbed with fine sandpaper, cleane it well and use ABF colour green vegetable.I am happy with the result.

reedeprintice · Jun 29, 2014

Look at tractor paint its cheap and durable .

Nick Mueller · Jun 29, 2014

I only use 2 component PU paint. The brand I use is MIPA, maybe only available in Germany/Europe. Suggested use is tractor / truck / machinery.

Nick

CBlair · Jun 29, 2014

In the US Imron is likely the paint of choice, it has been reformulated over the years so it is different than the old Imron paint but it is still a tough and durable industrial product. There is also a line of high fill or thin primers that work with the paint.

Charles

Peter. · Jun 29, 2014

I use a plain grey acrylic floor paint. It's very hard-wearing, but gives a somewhat matt finish.

Casady Machine · Jun 29, 2014

I find that the key to a durable paint job is in the prepping and also making sure you let the paint dry for at least a weak before using the machine. I use rustolium "machine grey" on my machines and if you have done your part in the prep and let the paint dry fully then it is very tough. I'm sure some of the paints mentioned above are better but again I think the results you get are mostly based on your prep and proper drying time.

Lassen Forge · Jun 29, 2014

Any good hard-working enamel will work. If you want more durable, go with an epoxy (but don't forget your PPE's!!!) - Imron is good, but you need supplied air and gloves and stuff, and the old stuff needed a moon suit to shoot safely. Seriously toxic stuff.

The ultimate is Powder Coating, but you have to be careful with your mating surfaces, as it changes dimensions to the stuff being powder coated.

CBlair · Jun 29, 2014

Lassen Forge said:
- Imron is good, but you need supplied air and gloves and stuff, and the old stuff needed a moon suit to shoot safely. Seriously toxic stuff.

I am sure it was, I painted an engine block with Imron in 1989 in a tee shirt and facemask....maybe that explains a few things now.

Charles

mach2 · Jun 29, 2014

Imron is dangerous and should be applied by a professional only.

Spinit · Jun 29, 2014

I have also exposed myself to many things over the years. It is much better today than years ago and at least we have MSDS books and can check on things. Carbide dust from grinding is some nasty stuff. Various chemicals are also. I have heard from experienced painters that paints can be unsafe if not used properly.

Mark Rand · Jun 29, 2014

Sorry to contradict the hysteria, but isocyanate cured polyurethanes such as Imron merely require good practices and care. Use a disposable hooded overall and gloves. Supplied air is good, if drawn from a contamination free source, but companies such as Dräger produce breathing mask filters that work perfectly well with isocyanates. Don't get the un-cured stuff or hardener on your skin. Follow those rules and you'll be as safe as a 'professional'. If you get sensitized to it, it doesn't matter whether you're an amateur or a professional, you won't be able to use it again without danger.

While on the subject of painting machines, If useing a 2 pack acrylic high-build primer, beware of getting too thick a layer in an attempt to remove all traces of casting marks. It's not particularly tough and can lead to an easily chipped finish after covering with the 2 pack PU paints.

craigS · Jun 29, 2014

I have done two lathes and a BP mill. First lathe was done with Centari acrylic enamle with a urethane hardner, did a good job and easy to use and spray. When I did the mill my supplier couldn't sell Centari anymore in California so he recommended PPG Omni 2P urethane. Compared to the Centari it was crap to work with, nothing but runs and drips and no coverage, was almost as thin as water, will never use it again. On the second lathe I went with a 2P epoxy from Klasskote and it worked really nice, was full bodied and was easy to spray or brush. Was not quite as glossy as the urethanes but looks nice. With the epoxy, no primer is needed over bare metal, it's resistant to most all solvents and lubricants and can be ordered in quart or half gallon kits.
Craig

freddygotarf · Jun 29, 2014

thanks for all the suggestions. My first thought was to use International paint.
That's the choice of paint where I work on all steel structures.It seems tough.
I'm going to check and see whats available of the suggestions I got here.
Thanks

CBlair · Jun 29, 2014

Freddy the best advice is to go to the local professional paint store, not the home center stuff but the automotive and industrial suppliers. It is best to get advice and supplies from them as you will not have the problem of incompatible layers or running out of something and not being able to get more when you need it.

Let them know of some of the suggestions and see what comparable product they have.

Charles

freddygotarf · Jul 5, 2014

I went to an industrial paint store and got a Devoe industrial alkyd paint.
It is fast drying and so far its easy to work with. The primer is quite filling and fast drying as well.
I have painted the chip tray ,coolant tank and back splash guard. I'm happy with the results so far.

MetalSplinter74 · Jul 5, 2014

If it were me, I'd use a good epoxy paint. Its very impervious to chems etc.

CBlair · Jul 5, 2014

freddygotarf said:
I went to an industrial paint store and got a Devoe industrial alkyd paint.
It is fast drying and so far its easy to work with. The primer is quite filling and fast drying as well.
I have painted the chip tray ,coolant tank and back splash guard. I'm happy with the results so far.

Well keep us informed Freddy, oh and I am sorry but your user name really has me baffled...I cant see it without thinking Freddy Goat Fart....even thought I know that is not how it is spelled.

Charles

Pete F · Jul 5, 2014

Oh this is an easy answer. "Real Machines" only ever come in one colour; RAL 6011, Reseda Green

RC99 · Jul 5, 2014

Pete F said:
Oh this is an easy answer. "Real Machines" only ever come in one colour; RAL 6011, Reseda Green

What shade of pink is that Pete????

What paint do you recommend for a lathe reconditioning?

Plastic

Plastic

Stainless

Titanium

Diamond

Titanium

Aluminum

Aluminum

Diamond

Stainless

Titanium

Diamond

Aluminum

Plastic

Diamond

Plastic

Plastic

Diamond

Titanium

Diamond

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