WTB cylindercal grinder

I need a cylindrical grinder to grind 3 inch diameter 12 inch long parts. I am in AZ

spotter

They are a lot on ebay.

Athack

Wow slim pickings out there..If you ran that in Detroit the phone would be ringing.

I am not sure what is a good one to get, I am would like a mechancle one instead of hydraulic. I have a hydraulic surface grinder and it runs like a champ so maybe one wouldnt be bad. I saw a B and S number 1 at hgr I might check into that.

michiganbuck said:

Wow slim pickings out there..If you ran that in Detroit the phone would be ringing.

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Your not kidding!!! I Have 14"x36" Universal Cincinnati that he can have cheaper than he'll find anywhere in town. 3J sjogren collet closer, collets, centers, ID attachment, extra wheels and a few other things.

kpotter said:

....., I am would like a mechancle one instead of hydraulic. ......

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On 3 inch dia by foot long parts. No you do not want a hand driven machine. Not if you have more than one part to do.
This will get old real fast. Think of it this way your part is 9x12 or 5x20 on a flat grinder. Lots of metal to cut.
My first thought would be old bulletproof cincis . Heavy guys, shipping is probably the cost of the machine.
Bob

Go to Surplusrecord.com or machinetools.com and put in a free "wanted" advertisement. Those sites then send out your wanted out to all or the majority of used machinery dealers out there. Like Bob said, buy a hydraulic machine that you can set on auto feed, so you can walk away and when it reaches size it shuts off. Then you can work on another project too. The finish on a steady feed will be much better then hand feed..plus your arm won't be cramping up...lol...I would also bet the trucking fee will be higher then what you pay for the machine. Might be worth a cheap airplane ticket too, and go look at it before you buy. Rich

Here is a '47 B&S Universal 14 X 60, not hydraulic, has motorized traverse and cross feed actuated by traverse. This is the #4, while the #2 and #3 were shorter but the same machine

BS 4 Grinder by John Oder | Photobucket

Does work like the thumbnail with its PLAIN bearing wheelhead

Oh - it ain't for sale.

Member 4GSR looked at a #2 in the Victoria TX area - it needs lots of help, but likely could be had for taking it away - if it hasn't already gone to the scrapper

Production job?

Qt Richard: [Might be worth a cheap airplane ticket too..] Seeing a machine running is worth a grand for fewer surprises.

Larger wheels can cost a bundle but do last a long time. Big wheel machines have a slow spindle so last longer.

Machine like a brown and sharpe 13 can do that job well and use surface grinder wheels..but more for one ups, great when you will be dressing angles and forms because of using low priced wheels.

Cincinnati #2 TC can also do but has poor in feed control so holding tenths is a bump and count sparks...
Cincinnati OD and cylindrical grinders are very good.

Heaver machine and larger wheel can repeat size with less checking. Ran a Norton that after awhile one could turn in the tenths dial to the stop with just knowing the number of parts and repeat better then a half thousandth.

Tarry can be very good if doing step and shoulder jobs.. that is not found on all grinders, it is a bump to the shoulder feature for size and spark-out. If doing just OD this is not worth the extra bucks and more to go wrong.

This grinder offered by a highly respected shop just north of Detroit.
Landis 3R Universal O.D. Grinder

*I do like the Norton infeed hand wheel more than the landis for production run jobs (and all jobs)..for its location in front, stop arm. tenths small feed hand wheel, and auto in feed to the stop.

Landis, Norton and B&S perhaps the most common names among many.
Yes looking about or at auction you may find one in good shape for $300 to $1000

Centers should be match height and ground in place for .0002 / .00005 or so.

And having auto long feed is very good for surface finish and just doing the job.. auto in feed good also.

Ours is still for sale in northwest Oklahoma. not terribly too far.

I guarantee the price is way negotiable, just not with me. You'll have to speak to the boss.

As is evident in the post, I'm just regurgitating info from the ad when we bought it. I've never used it, but i can put you on the phone with our grinder operator.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...r-wanted/fs-landis-od-grinder-enid-ok-294012/

Give it a whirl.

I have an old beater 6 x 18 Norton CTU that uses a 20" wheel- not much to look at, but its a great machine for between center work. Nice thing about the big wheel is you can do a lot of grinding between dresses. As michiganbuck said, the infeed handwheel arrangement is the cats meow- and increasing the infeed a few tenths is dead accurate. If you are going to be doing a bunch of these, don't get too small a grinder- you will hate yourself after a few parts. Dan

Sounds like you have decided on the steel for the strip roll you want to make.

Tom

moto x that looks like a nice machine, that is probably what I should be looking at. I will be grinding the rolls for my new tool that I will be producing. I will send a pm.

I have a nice Landis 1R with swing down attachment. But am in NC

kpotter said:

moto x that looks like a nice machine, that is probably what I should be looking at. I will be grinding the rolls for my new tool that I will be producing. I will send a pm.

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When it is the right time tell us about your new tool

Mebfab said:

I have a nice Landis 1R with swing down attachment. But am in NC

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Nice machines! I like the Landis machines. Heed Dan's advice, too. I do mostly smaller sized parts, but do oft venture into slightly larger. Mostly in length, not diameter. But diameter happens too, from time to time. It is VERY easy to run out of machine on a Cylindrical Grinder and it gets annoying, fast. Like everything else in life, if it just had one more inch...

johnoder said:

....snip......Member 4GSR looked at a #2 in the Victoria TX area - it needs lots of help, but likely could be had for taking it away - if it hasn't already gone to the scrapper

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Last report I had on it, the new owners of the property was in the process of having it removed and hauled off. Ken

michiganbuck said:

When it is the right time tell us about your new tool

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I am going to make rolling mills for jewelers, there has not been one built in the US for decades probably 50 years. The chinese make a bunch of them cheap and so does india. The UK produces some nice ones but I figure we should have one made here. I make a nice table top shear and even though it is crazy expensive and not very profitable I still sell quite a few of them. I hope to sell a few of these as well.

Hobby Shop said:

Your not kidding!!! I Have 14"x36" Universal Cincinnati that he can have cheaper than he'll find anywhere in town. 3J sjogren collet closer, collets, centers, ID attachment, extra wheels and a few other things.

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I wouldn't mind knowing more about this machine.