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FS Monarch 10EE

spaeth

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 28, 2008
Location
emporium pa
For Sale Monarch 10EE 1943 Round Dial
#EE18950. Far from a basket case also far from pristine. Ways look pretty good, some wear, Cross slide and lead screws are good. Not much backlash, compound not broken. Feeds work but may need friction disc tightened. Now for the not so good. The original MG is gone. In it's place is a franken-drive unit from the back woods. 5HP 3 phase 240 motor coupled to a pulley setup
reducing the speed then to a Borg Warner 4 speed transmission to pulley to head stock. I laughed too when I saw that. It does run the spindle though and has reverse and the tach works. Not sure it registers correctly though. As from the pics the on/off lever and switch, the high/low/speed dial and the indexing stop rod are all missing. Yes the gear box is also gone. You can see it run, and it does cut and drill. A bit awkward for sure but it works as is. This would be a great candidate for Restoration or a VFD conversion or part out or just using it. I think despite it's age and issues it's much too nice to scrap. 1600.00 and we'll help you load it.
spaeth


DSCN2831.jpgDSCN2832.jpgDSCN2833.jpgDSCN2836.jpg
 
coupled to a pulley setup
reducing the speed then to a Borg Warner 4 speed transmission to pulley to head stock.

Sir, we're gonna need you to post some photos of that.

Also, is there a Hurst shifter included?
 
Looks like an excellent foundation for a guy that wants a really really REALLY good lathe, but has a limited budget.

Even with a 4-on-the-floor drive, it'd get him going well enough to make any of the parts needed for a 'real' drive system.

For anyone that might be interested, I used an old, dirty 7.5hp Allis-Chalmers 1800rpm 3-phase motor, with new bearings, and replaced the motor-end cooling fan with a constant-speed computer fan, wired it for 480, fed it with a new-old-stock Allen_Bradley 1336 (the earliest version, 10hp 3ph drive, fed by a reverse-connected 480-240 10kva dry transformer. I coupled the motor to the spindle with a 3:1 toothed belt reduction. Yeah, it vibrates a little more than a flat belt or V-belt, but it's absolutely certainly positive drive, and will go from creep to well over 2500 with no complaints. I think I spent under $300 total for the whole conversion...
 
For Sale Monarch 10EE 1943 Round Dial
#EE18950. Far from a basket case also far from pristine. Ways look pretty good, some wear, Cross slide and lead screws are good. Not much backlash, compound not broken. Feeds work but may need friction disc tightened. Now for the not so good. The original MG is gone. In it's place is a franken-drive unit from the back woods. 5HP 3 phase 240 motor coupled to a pulley setup
reducing the speed then to a Borg Warner 4 speed transmission to pulley to head stock. I laughed too when I saw that. It does run the spindle though and has reverse and the tach works. Not sure it registers correctly though. As from the pics the on/off lever and switch, the high/low/speed dial and the indexing stop rod are all missing. Yes the gear box is also gone. You can see it run, and it does cut and drill. A bit awkward for sure but it works as is. This would be a great candidate for Restoration or a VFD conversion or part out or just using it. I think despite it's age and issues it's much too nice to scrap. 1600.00 and we'll help you load it.
spaeth


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Original DC motors.. with gearboxes. . can still be found. I just reccently bought another one so I have a spare for each of my 10EE. Onpassed a WiaD motor I didn't need.

MG unit that had been with it was shipped to another PM member. There are other MG units "out there" going begging for a home.

DC panel functionality can be duplicated with 100% present-day parts.

Or neither MG nor panel needed at all.

Eurotherm/Parker-SSD 514C "4Q" DC drives need no DC panel, contactors, braking resistors, "toilet seat" rheostats, nor motor switch....

If this one is $1600, I'd figure another $1600 and it could be continuously-variable DC Driven again pretty much same performance as the original. Make that $2,000 it could be better than OEM at least as to speed range, and just as powerful if not more so.

Transport is wotever it is...
 
Glug,
Here are a couple pics of the franken-drive. I was mistaken about the tranny being a Borg Warner T-10. Looks more like a T-5 without a Hurst shifter. I had nothing to do with the design or instillation of this unit. Sounds fairly easy and inexpensive to change to an updated or original drive system. Which would be the right way to go. Then a guy could parlay the T-5 and recoup a good portion of the purchase price. Thanks men for the advice and sharing your knowledge about the drive options.
spaeth
DSCN2840.jpgDSCN2839.jpgDSCN2838.jpgDSCN2837.jpg
 
Glug,
Here are a couple pics of the franken-drive. I was mistaken about the tranny being a Borg Warner T-10. Looks more like a T-5 without a Hurst shifter. I had nothing to do with the design or instillation of this unit. Sounds fairly easy and inexpensive to change to an updated or original drive system. Which would be the right way to go. Then a guy could parlay the T-5 and recoup a good portion of the purchase price. Thanks men for the advice and sharing your knowledge about the drive options.
spaeth
View attachment 279224View attachment 279223View attachment 279222View attachment 279221

That's rather nicely executed for what it is, and surely looked better when it was
new and clean.

All goes toward the "draw" of a 10EE.

With NO complex "geared head", powered clutches, electro/hydraulic shifters, etc, - only a belt to spin the spindle, there's LOTS of ways to "deliver the spin" INTO the other end of the belting.

T5 or even AX5 is good for more than 100 HP, more than ten times the 23-odd Ft lb of the OEM motor's torque, and for over 100,000 if not twice that over-the-road miles.

So what's there NOW is durable enough as-is.

Modest VFD to put continuously variable speeds back on the menu, yah still have selectable ratios to optimize its torque?

A case could be made to just keep it cheap, leave it TF as-is, and "run what yah got".

Sure ain't going to find even a South Bent of a quarter the power and less-yet the rigidity for anything close to the ASKING PRICE!

Sumbudy grabulate it and run, please!

I've actually BEEN to Emporium, PA.... more than once, if yah can believe it .. (some of us are slow learners..) but do NOT have the space.

:D
 
"Sure ain't going to find even a South Bent of a quarter the power and less-yet the rigidity for anything close to the ASKING PRICE!"

^ This.
Shop built fixes, when done well, can really add a lot of character to a machine. The best part is, you can add your own custom fixes without feeling like you're destroying a pristine vintage machine.
 
"Sure ain't going to find even a South Bent of a quarter the power and less-yet the rigidity for anything close to the ASKING PRICE!"

^ This.
Shop built fixes, when done well, can really add a lot of character to a machine. The best part is, you can add your own custom fixes without feeling like you're destroying a pristine vintage machine.

Prezactly the belt-driven 10EE's "meat", yazz.

Side-issue, but for MOST lathes, over-the-road or even OFF road tranny ratios are near as dammit useless.

One of the reasons the firm as made those common gearboxes for electric motor conversions, "cone head and lineshaft era" of a hundred years ago is STILL in bizness, and STILL making and selling those same-same gearboxes.

Just not as affordably as salvage off a trillion motors-we-hiccup-les being scrapped by the millions per year can be had for.

ZF six, eight.. TEN speed anyone?

Hope not!

Insolently mutinous buggers are too arrogant to do as they are TOLD to do, even in a fine motor car!

:(
 
Glug,
Here are a couple pics of the franken-drive. I was mistaken about the tranny being a Borg Warner T-10. Looks more like a T-5 without a Hurst shifter. I had nothing to do with the design or instillation of this unit. Sounds fairly easy and inexpensive to change to an updated or original drive system. Which would be the right way to go. Then a guy could parlay the T-5 and recoup a good portion of the purchase price. Thanks men for the advice and sharing your knowledge about the drive options.
spaeth

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That's a HOOT! Definitely one of the weirdest conversions that I've seen.

Cal
 
I humbly step off the pedestal, that I self-proclaimed myself to be on: I thought I was "the ultimate executer of 'Rube Goldberg' fixes".. I have been deposed!!

:-)

Other than having to keep the two single vee belts tight and DRY so they would not slip... the system does have some degree of 'elegance'.. LOL

Looks like a much-less dangerous drive mechanism than one I repaired on a saw-mill. BIG v8 engine driving a mix of belts and link-chains, jack shafts and a 60" diameter insert-tooth saw blade.. Scary as hell when running, Once I repaired the stripped keyway in a 2.5" diameter drive shaft.. I left the scene within 30 seconds of it being fired up and the operator was preparing to cut a slab off of a 24" old, dry oak log.. 12' long.. I didn't want to be around, in-range of any shrapnel.. I still shudder to think of that guy within feet of all that half-baked machinery being powered by an uncaring big-block V8..

DualValve..
 
I still shudder to think of that guy within feet of all that half-baked machinery being powered by an uncaring big-block V8..

Not a lot of sawmills as were NOT sore ugly and more dangerous than ugly.
AFAIK, the only thing "new" was the big-block V8.

Appalachia, it was usually a tired old Diesel as had replaced the more "natural" steam.

"Green" wood, bark-on scabs, surely ain't the best for firing a boiler, but there was old deadfall to augment, no shortage, damned short "haul", and the price was right.
 
I get that since getting three phase to a rural saw mill would be a hell of a lot more work than a V-8 Ford.

Last time our "family" acreage was "timbered" was around five years before we had electricity of ANY kind any closer than about 2 1/2 miles to the farm.

Initial service, dawn of the 1950's, was one 30A split-phase drop per residence, later upgraded to 60A.

BFD. We could finally have an electric well-pump, electric butter churn, and even an ice-cream maker we kids didn't have to take turns hand-cranking!

Also an AM radio without having to make a pilgrimage to collect four different Voltages of dry-cell battery once every Presidential election year!

Most everything we had was natural gas, lighting and refrigeration included - even air-conditioning by the time Dad got too decrepit to drive, sold-up to spend his last years in town.

Gas cost us nothing but for pipe laid and a regulator. Wells were right on the property. Five of them - during the best years - paid about $800 in 1/8th share, average month in addition to the "free" gas allowance.

:)

A 10EE rigged as this one has been done?

That doesn't actually even have to be an ELECTRIC motor driving into the gearbox, does it?

Flat-belt through a cutout in the wall to a seperate shed to keep IC engine stink outdoors. G'mum's Maytag wringer-warsher - gasoline engined - had lived for years outdoors.

Even steam... or a waterwheel could do.

Still want 'lectric drive? Water, wind, or solar and a battery bank.., or the MEP-803A Diesel, in my case.
 
I believe the transmission is out of a Ford Pinto - I would go easy on the "rat rod" stuff. 5 or 10 Hp should be OK. At one time it was not uncommon to see 3 speed car transmissions on old lathes in Northern MN.
 








 
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