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Looking for lathe with 24"+ swing over cross slide and 200"+ c-c.

alphonso said:
15.5 foot by 24 inch dia. truss press rollers with 4inch dia. shafts sticking out 9 inches on each end. Broke off shaft on one end.
Click to expand...

If I understand correctly, you don't need 24" swing over the cross slide, as it should be to the right of the 24" roll when everything is set up. Or am I missing something?

You will need at least one, and maybe two steady rests of sufficient size, so may need a bigger lathe for that aspect alone.

Going to bore out the end and press/shrink in a new stub?
 
Contact Dow Machine up in northwest Houston. They have a couple of lathes that swing 38" plus, that may swing 24" over the carriage. They have over 330" between centers. Right price, they may sell or offer to do the work for you. Ken
 
Those are pretty wimpy shafts for that big of a roller. I assume it is a hollow roller. How thick are the bulkheads?
 
Milland said:
If I understand correctly, you don't need 24" swing over the cross slide, as it should be to the right of the 24" roll when everything is set up. Or am I missing something?

You will need at least one, and maybe two steady rests of sufficient size, so may need a bigger lathe for that aspect alone.

Going to bore out the end and press/shrink in a new stub?
Click to expand...


For this job I don't need to clear the cross slide, but.............. if some one wants the od turned, I will need to clear cross slide.

They are tube, 1 inch wall. If I'm reading the print correctly there is a single shaft that runs all the way thru. 6 or so bulkheads/ "donuts" 1 inch or more thick. Procedure sent with them says to remove end plate from roller and shaft then remove next plate(3 foot down inside tube!!!!), cut shaft about 9 inches further inside from the inner plate. Fab a new shaft with some sort of boss and hole to align and join the two. Fab new plates and weld to tube and shaft. Turn shaft down to fit bearing. Not sure I entirely agree with this procedure.

Pic of broken end and evidence of a probably cheesy repair.

DSCF1009.jpg
 
Do not weld to the shaft at the outer bulkhead, it will break as shown. Instead,make a spacer, say 6 od, snug slip on shaft, 1 long. Weld that spacer to the outer bulkhead with the shaft properly installed. The shrink from welding will shrink the spacer for a tremendous grip. The shrink will still make a stress riser, but not nearly as much as the riser at the toe of a weld.

I don't think you'll have to worry about turning the OD if you are running it in a steady. It will still take a good-sized lathe to reach in there to make a clean spot to weld in the new bulkhead. I think I would cut the old bulkhead out and put the new bulkhead slightly to the outside so I didn't have to clean up the previous welded area.

Are a pair of these rollers used to press the crimp plates on trusses?
 
If I were you...

I'd "turn down" (is joke) this job. It's a shit design, with (as mentioned) too small an axle for the overall size and apparent stress on the roll. If this repair fails later, who's on the hook for liability?

Which brings my next point - if you must do it, demand a insurance rider in perpetuity that covers or indemnifies you for damage and injury if this puppy fails again and someone/something gets hurt.

It should have been designed better from the start, with something like tapered clamp collars (like you see on large gears or timing belt drive sprockets) for two bulkheads, one perhaps 3ft in (that seems reasonable), and a flanged bulkhead for the end welded onto the tube in a V-groove.

McMaster-Carr

The outer bulkhead includes large circular holes to allow a big ratchet extension to get to the inner collar to tighten and loosen, and its own taper collar to stabilize the outer end. Bingo - two robust clamp points that can be repeatedly used if axle repair or replacement is needed.

The inner bulkheads, and certainly the rest of the 4" shaft aren't doing shit unless the contact forces on the main tube are too great, causing a standing wave flatting at the contact zone. If that's the case, thicken the tube walls.
 
gbent said:
Do not weld to the shaft at the outer bulkhead, it will break as shown. Instead,make a spacer, say 6 od, snug slip on shaft, 1 long. Weld that spacer to the outer bulkhead with the shaft properly installed. The shrink from welding will shrink the spacer for a tremendous grip. The shrink will still make a stress riser, but not nearly as much as the riser at the toe of a weld.

I don't think you'll have to worry about turning the OD if you are running it in a steady. It will still take a good-sized lathe to reach in there to make a clean spot to weld in the new bulkhead. I think I would cut the old bulkhead out and put the new bulkhead slightly to the outside so I didn't have to clean up the previous welded area.

Are a pair of these rollers used to press the crimp plates on trusses?
Click to expand...


Yes, to press the crimp plates on trusses. Gantry travels along the table that the trusses are laid out on. Only one roller per machine. I think the newer style runs the truss thru two rollers like an old washing machine wringer. Manual for new style press: Alpine Equipment Manuals - RollerPress Product Manual The adjustment procedure( pages 15 - 16) illustrates to me the piss poor design of the machine.

The shaft didn't break at the weld, it broke where it is turned down for the bearing. No fillet, even though drawing shows one.

Considering leaving enough of the existing inner bulk head in place and bolting a new one to it. Maybe do the same for outer one, too.
 
alphonso said:
Need to find a lathe that will clear 24" + diameter over cross slide and 200" + between centers. Prefer Texas and surrounding states.
Click to expand...
Alphonso,
I have this lathe in Mississippi if you have interest.
Engine Lathe: Capacity: 40” x 200”, 2007 Birmingham Model DL-40200, Swg: 40", SOCS: 27 9/16", Ctrs: 200", 1000 RPM, Hole: 5 1/8", 16" 4-J Ck, (2) Steady Rests, DRO, Tlstk, Threading, Gap Swg: 48 1/2", 20 HP.
Price: $42,500.00
Please email if you want photos Thanks! Tom (e-mail: [email protected]
 
alphonso said:
Yes, to press the crimp plates on trusses. Gantry travels along the table that the trusses are laid out on. Only one roller per machine. I think the newer style runs the truss thru two rollers like an old washing machine wringer. Manual for new style press: Alpine Equipment Manuals - RollerPress Product Manual The adjustment procedure( pages 15 - 16) illustrates to me the piss poor design of the machine.

The shaft didn't break at the weld, it broke where it is turned down for the bearing. No fillet, even though drawing shows one.

Considering leaving enough of the existing inner bulk head in place and bolting a new one to it. Maybe do the same for outer one, too.
Click to expand...

IIRC the Lincoln book "Design of Weldments" addressed this pretty good. I think there where some examples of rollers built just like that you are trying to doo.
 
Compare:
Kingston 40 X 240" Taiwanese machine

Lansing 40 X 240" Italian machine

Several Lansings on fleabay. Prices are about half of equivalent Kingston??????
 
For that dollar and space commitment I'd want to travel and check either machine in person for function and wear. Granted, it's tricky right now if you factor in Covid.

I only saw a Kingston on Ebay, no Lansing the right size. Looked in good shape, but a little pricey perhaps? I checked the video, the gent showing it off did seem to fiddle a bit with the headstock gearing and carriage controls, perhaps it's just a matter of getting used to them.
 
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