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Ageha-Zeatz PHV250 rotary table manual/exploded view

jmbecker

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Hi , does anyone has maybe a manual/exploded view/partslist of a
Ageha-Zeatz PHV250 rotary table ?
I can't get the wormshaft out,which I need to do to get the table out so I can fix the locking mechanism.
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated !20180928_154056.jpg20180928_154125.jpg
 
Hi , does anyone has maybe a manual/exploded view/partslist of a
Ageha-Zeatz PHV250 rotary table ?
I can't get the wormshaft out,which I need to do to get the table out so I can fix the locking mechanism.
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated !View attachment 239009View attachment 239010


Hi, did you fixed your rotary device all ready ? if not i maybe can help you, i have a Zeatz PHV 320, i took apart today
to refurbish. Its easy if you know how to.
I will write a pictured manual how-to for this device.

Ohh, eh yes, i am new here, so hi everybody !https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/images/icons/icon10.png

Cheers Jack
 
Can you post the manual or any info on how to adjust the handle on the Zeatz pin 320?I can’t get the link to open. Thanks
 
Can you post the manual or any info on how to adjust the handle on the Zeatz pin 320?I can’t get the link to open. Thanks

Hi. i am not that far right now, i have disassembled my rotary table completely
on this moment, i have derusted all iron metal parts by electrolysis, and parts containing
stainless steel by a mixture of "diesel-vinagar-cola".

My rotary table was one pile of rust inside, no drop of oil !
The locking mechanisme wasn't working at all.
Here are a few pictures of the parts while derusting, tomorow i will take pics of all derusted parts.

What do you mean by adjust the handle ? The handle is like all rotary table, but you need the dividing discs, the one with all the
holes drilled in it.
 

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Can you post the manual or any info on how to adjust the handle on the Zeatz pin 320?I can’t get the link to open. Thanks

I will try to post another 5 pics,
 

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Hi, tommorow i will take pictures of the housing from all angles, and from the clock-assembly(this is the worm wheel and nonius,
till tommorow, Jack.
 
HI Jack thanks for the reply.I had a typo above.I have purchased a Royal/Zeatz PHVGI 320 made in Spain.It is horizontal & verticle 12”.The table is mark free great shape,no rust,locks & turns fine but appears to have no oil in sight glass & handle has about 1/3 of a turn of movement when switching from cw to ccw.I thought I would take apart and clean & see if I could get some slop out of handle if I could & fill with oil.How How does it come apart? Thanks Tim
 
HI Jack thanks for the reply.I had a typo above.I have purchased a Royal/Zeatz PHVGI 320 made in Spain.It is horizontal & verticle 12”.The table is mark free great shape,no rust,locks & turns fine but appears to have no oil in sight glass & handle has about 1/3 of a turn of movement when switching from cw to ccw.I thought I would take apart and clean & see if I could get some slop out of handle if I could & fill with oil.How How does it come apart? Thanks Tim

Hello TCMACH3 and all others,

to disassemble your rotary table, first drain the oil, at the backside is the oil drain plug, hex socket.
Now first disengage the worm-gear by rotating the clock CCW, at the bottom,the under site of the table, front side, there are 2 socket hex screws,take them out,
then loose the hex nut at the right side front on top of the table , now you are ready to pull out the complete worm gear assembly.
You have to pull in shocks, because there is a big rubber oil-seal that will give some friction.
 

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Strange, i posted a post and its not there

Hi TCMACH3 and all others.

To disassemble your rotary table :

Drain the oil, ad the backside there is a drain plug, metric socket hex, take it out.
Now disengage the worm gear by rotating the clock house CCW.
Under side front there are 2 hex socket metric locking screws, get them out.
On top right front there is a hex nut, release it completely,
now you can pull out the complete clock/ worm gear assembly, you will have tho do shock pulling because
there is a big rubber O-ring that will give some friction.
 

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Here a pic of the complete clock house worm gear assembly deassembled,
rest will follow.

jack.
 

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Thanks Jack that is great info.I assume the table should come off first right? Is the nut RH or LH? I think my clockhouse is stuck I can’t rotate it to disengage, probably from no oil.Any other photos or info will be great.thanks
 
Thanks Jack that is great info.I assume the table should come off first right? Is the nut RH or LH? I think my clockhouse is stuck I can’t rotate it to disengage, probably from no oil.Any other photos or info will be great.thanks

Hi TCMACH3 ad all others,
no the table goes of in second place, first you have to get out the worm gear clock house assembly,
hmm, you have the same problem as i had, i will make a few pics tomorrow with text then you have a real how to.
Its not a big deal, leave everything together for now, cause only the handle, the scissor and the divider-plate will
have to be disassembled.
Now it is night over here, so you have a look tomorrow and then you will be fine,

to you all, cheers.
 
Hi TCMACH3 ad all others,
no the table goes of in second place, first you have to get out the worm gear clock house assembly,
hmm, you have the same problem as i had, i will make a few pics tomorrow with text then you have a real how to.
Its not a big deal, leave everything together for now, cause only the handle, the scissor and the divider-plate will
have to be disassembled.
Now it is night over here, so you have a look tomorrow and then you will be fine,

to you all, cheers.

Hi TCMACH3,
have a look at this pictures,
 

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TCMACH3,
for your rotary table,
after you do a 1/3 turn CCW, with your handle, can you then free rotate the rotary-plate ? try this !
Do you see the locking-screw on top, take it out and see what is the difference,
On the picture you can see the clock with the" nonius-scale-ring", and the "engage/disengage-ring(with 0 and 60 degrees on it)"
after the locking-screw is out,"normaly" you can rotate the engage/disengage-ring CCW about a 1/4 turn.
First try this !! before you go to the hard way,


The hard way: remove drain plug at back side,drain if there is any, remove the 2 locking screws under-side right-side-front,
loose up the hex-nut on top right-side-front and shake the thread by hand, so long that it can shake just a litle.
Now look at the pics with the multi-size spanners, stick one in a t-groove with the spanner
goinng in to the vertical mounting-slot(to use as a blocker) and the other on front on the handle mechanisme.
Now turn the front spanner CCW till there comes tension, build up tension in litle moves,carefuly, in one time you
will here a bang, then it is loose(friction bang).
Now turn the spanner CCW for so long that clock-worm-gear-assembly dont come ou any futher, then you are ready to pull the last
few iches/cm out.

Till later, jack.
 

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Hi TCMACH3 ,JMBECKER(OP) and all others,
finally taking of the rotary-plate:

Loosen the 2 locking locking pins by turning the handles/levers CCW, then take of the levers by unscrewing the sliced screws,
turn out the locking bolts completely, stick a pin or stellar-screwdriver in the hole of the locking pin and hammer the pins out,
like is done on the pic.
Next flip the rotary-table on his rotary-plate/mounting-face(upside down), (use a little wooden block to level it out to secure space
for the rotary-plate to drop when it is demounted!!)
Now untighten the little hex-socket secure screw,
now take a pin or a stellar-screwdriver and stick it in one of the holes of the bearing cap, use a nylon hammer and turn it CCW, remove it completely and also remove the shim(raceway)+bearing+shim(raceway), attention!! KEEP THE SHIM+BEARING+SHIM-PACKAGE in the right order!!(use a ty-rap)
Now use the nylon hammer, and maybe a wooden block to hammer the rotary-plate out of the needle bearing, ATTENTION, be aware that this plate is heavy !
so pay attention to yours and others safety !!

That's it.
jack
 

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Here a pic of rotary plate mounting/bearing-shaft assembly
 

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I got my shaft assembly out,took all apart and cleaned everything,put a new o- ring on it & put back together.I used fine sandpaper and sanded the outside & honed the bore on the housing.I put the worm gear assembly back in & it rotates to engage -disengage freely now.I will take the table off later & clean it up.Thanks for the info it saved me a lot of time trying to figure out how to take apart.
 
I got my shaft assembly out,took all apart and cleaned everything,put a new o- ring on it & put back together.I used fine sandpaper and sanded the outside & honed the bore on the housing.I put the worm gear assembly back in & it rotates to engage -disengage freely now.I will take the table off later & clean it up.Thanks for the info it saved me a lot of time trying to figure out how to take apart.

Ok TCMACH3 and all others,
did you fill it up again with oil, or oil and grease, it's what i will do, i will put a lot grease on the clock-housing surface
and on the worm/ring-gear and later fill a amount of oil, good you have it ready, wasn't so difficult,

jack.
 
I greased all the bearings & shaft before reassembling on the worm assembly.After i get my table off & cleaned I probably will grease the bearings & use 90w gear oil in the housing when i get it all put back together.I will watch for leaks.I wonder why it had hardly any oil in it when i opened it up to start with.The o-ring on the worm shaft housing was rough but don't see how it would have leaked all the oil out thru that.
 








 
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