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RFQ - Small turned part

dewaldron

Plastic
Joined
May 10, 2010
Location
NJ
We have the need for 50 to 100 of the 2020M-5 stud as noted in the drawing. Dimensions are shown. Material can be cold roll steel, drill rod or tool steel - essentially what you have available. The max dimension is .185 / .187 , so 3/16 rod is adequate.2020M-5.jpg
 
How far can you over drill the .375 deep hole and how are you measuring I.D.thread depth? A bottoming tap will get you full threads about 2-3 turns from the bottom. With the O.D. thread can your .375 length go to a thread relief or is the .375 the last witness mark where the single point thread tool pulls out?
 
How far can you over drill the .375 deep hole and how are you measuring I.D.thread depth? A bottoming tap will get you full threads about 2-3 turns from the bottom. With the O.D. thread can your .375 length go to a thread relief or is the .375 the last witness mark where the single point thread tool pulls out?


You can go to .400 on the depth if need be. When these are assembled, we will be using a 6-32 X 1/4" round head screw.
 
We have the need for 50 to 100 of the 2020M-5 stud as noted in the drawing. Dimensions are shown. Material can be cold roll steel, drill rod or tool steel - essentially what you have available. The max dimension is .185 / .187 , so 3/16 rod is adequate.View attachment 268423

FWIW, making a thread length dimension to +/-.005 is kind of silly. My preference (and it is practical as well IMO) would be xx rev full thread, or .375 min FULL thread, maybe with a note of .5 max, if needed for the function of the part.

It will make the part easier to make and quote IMO...
 
FWIW, making a thread length dimension to +/-.005 is kind of silly. My preference (and it is practical as well IMO) would be xx rev full thread, or .375 min FULL thread, maybe with a note of .5 max, if needed for the function of the part.

It will make the part easier to make and quote IMO...

Or put a thread relief of 2 turns and end it at .375.
 
Well - if he's only using a 1/4" long screw like he said - you guys can figger the rest eh?
Even if he doesn't understand the issues.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Well - if he's only using a 1/4" long screw like he said - you guys can figger the rest eh?
Even if he doesn't understand the issues.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

What is "tool Steel " ?....:crazy:
 
Well - if he's only using a 1/4" long screw like he said - you guys can figger the rest eh?
Even if he doesn't understand the issues.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Excuse me? What does a 1/4" long screw have to do with a 6-32 OUTSIDE THREAD? He only answered the question about the I.D. thread.
 
I'd like to think it obvious that I was talking about the inside hole?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

No kidding. Your comment seemed to imply people didn't need to be asking questions that they were. My question about the O.D. thread was not answered and neither was Mike's.
 
No kidding. Your comment seemed to imply people didn't need to be asking questions that they were. My question about the O.D. thread was not answered and neither was Mike's.


My point was that the opp doesn't seem to know how to spec his print well, but once he disclosed that what he really needs is to be sure not to bottom out his 1/4" screw, then we all understand what he "needs", but maybe not what he spec'd.

Come on, we all know that someone that draws a flat bottomed hole on a napkin with threads spec'd to the bottom - prolly aint draftsman, but with the added info - we should be able to assertain what he needs, and deliver that - and at a price that is much better than if we actually took his napkin to heart.

But then - there would always be the one time that the guy DID actually need that, and your parts would be rejected and you would be shamed on a public forum lynching too.

I mean - come - on, if you went by the print 100% you would be chasing a LH thread on the OD end....




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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
My point was that the opp doesn't seem to know how to spec his print well, but once he disclosed that what he really needs is to be sure not to bottom out his 1/4" screw, then we all understand what he "needs", but maybe not what he spec'd.

Come on, we all know that someone that draws a flat bottomed hole on a napkin with threads spec'd to the bottom - prolly aint draftsman, but with the added info - we should be able to assertain what he needs, and deliver that - and at a price that is much better than if we actually took his napkin to heart.

But then - there would always be the one time that the guy DID actually need that, and your parts would be rejected and you would be shamed on a public forum lynching too.

I mean - come - on, if you went by the print 100% you would be chasing a LH thread on the OD end....




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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I wondered who would pick up on the LH thread pictured..... good eye ox.
 
My point was that the opp doesn't seem to know how to spec his print well, but once he disclosed that what he really needs is to be sure not to bottom out his 1/4" screw, then we all understand what he "needs", but maybe not what he spec'd.

Come on, we all know that someone that draws a flat bottomed hole on a napkin with threads spec'd to the bottom - prolly aint draftsman, but with the added info - we should be able to assertain what he needs, and deliver that - and at a price that is much better than if we actually took his napkin to heart.

But then - there would always be the one time that the guy DID actually need that, and your parts would be rejected and you would be shamed on a public forum lynching too.

I mean - come - on, if you went by the print 100% you would be chasing a LH thread on the OD end....

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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Technically, we were commenting on the print dimensions... :stirthepot: It is a napkin sketch, but the male thread on the top part is labeled 6-32, not 6-32LH... but who knows??
 
No kidding. Your comment seemed to imply people didn't need to be asking questions that they were. My question about the O.D. thread was not answered and neither was Mike's.


I see that you are asking about the external +/- .005.
That is Shirley a good question.

And I agree 100% that - other than there being an undercut step, any attempt to measure such a feature would vary with each opperator and each method, and none of them would be right.

I was still ref on the tapped hole depth.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
I think I made it clear, you can use whatever 3/16 die stock you have in your shop, such as cold rolled steel, drill rod, tool steel etc
 








 
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