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RFQ for modifing purchase part to add #0-80 thread 33 pcs

trademarkmachine

Aluminum
Joined
May 31, 2011
Location
cincinnati
Looking for cost to add the #0-80 thread to part we purchase.
qty is 33 pcs. material is 303 SS. Note that this is a 2 pc assembly. with the .06 dia pc press fit into the larger pc.

We manufactured 2 pcs as a prototype.
we chucked on the larger dia. and used a die to cut threads. We had 1 of the pcs spin in the press fit.
so I think whoever does these will have to chuck on the smaller dia. to cut the threads.

Mike
 

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I am not in the us and not looking to bid, but ..
- 303ss is generally seen as gummy and difficult.

Your pic is very low res, useless for details.

What is your target price ?

Imho, a small thread on a difficult material, means a top man is involved for some hours.
This means 3-5000$ minimum, for gaged threads done to some standard.
On top of production.

Producing 30 maybe takes 50 minutes.
Say 350$ on a top jap multiax lathe.
Add 700$ setup and thinkaboutit.
The multiaxis might cost 1500$ all-in, with no gaging and no tolerance.

A turret lathe by a 1-man jobshop could run them for 3-500$, as-is, with their existing die.
Is this acceptable ?

See how things change ?
Any homeshop machinist of skill could grind the threads, on a t&c, for maybe 1200$ or so over a day.

Pick you poison.
 
- 303ss is generally seen as gummy and difficult.......What is your target price ?........Imho, a small thread on a difficult material, means a top man is involved for some hours.This means 3-5000$ minimum, for gaged threads done to some standard.On top of production.........A turret lathe by a 1-man jobshop could run them for 3-500$, as-is, with their existing die.
Dude, what the hell are you talking about?

303 is NOT difficult. And it's not the customer's responsibility to pick what machine is run by what employee to make their parts. That's your job, and if your price is acceptable, then cool. If not, then you need to fire the fuck out of anybody that could possibly wring up a $3000 bill to put ANY thread on ANY part like this.
 
Dude, what the hell are you talking about?

303 is NOT difficult. And it's not the customer's responsibility to pick what machine is run by what employee to make their parts. That's your job, and if your price is acceptable, then cool. If not, then you need to fire the fuck out of anybody that could possibly wring up a $3000 bill to put ANY thread on ANY part like this.

I am going to have to disagree with you Matt. Did you look at the picture? #0-80 tread hanging way the fuck out there like that.
How you gonna hold it? How you gonna easily grab that .060" dia. with the chunk hanging off the back? And, turning 303 does in fact suck.
Everything about that job screams PITA! I wouldn't go anywhere near this job for less.
 
How about a legible print? Even zooming in, you can't read it. Are you supplying the part already pressed together? Your description is confusing. Also wouldn't it be better to make a complete part as shown instead of two pieces?
 
I am going to have to disagree with you Matt. Did you look at the picture? #0-80 tread hanging way the fuck out there like that.
How you gonna hold it? How you gonna easily grab that .060" dia. with the chunk hanging off the back? And, turning 303 does in fact suck.
Everything about that job screams PITA! I wouldn't go anywhere near this job for less.

It is pretty easy, put a split bushing on the .060 diameter that has an O.D. bigger than the back of the part and load in a 5C or 16C collet closer.
 
It is pretty obvious some people don't have experience with small parts from some of the responses, simple as that. I have worked with them for decades. On the other hand I rarely make anything bigger than a coffee cup.
 
I am going to have to disagree with you Matt. Did you look at the picture? #0-80 tread hanging way the fuck out there like that.
How you gonna hold it? How you gonna easily grab that .060" dia. with the chunk hanging off the back? And, turning 303 does in fact suck.
Everything about that job screams PITA! I wouldn't go anywhere near this job for less.
Ya do it in a mill! Soft jaws so the thing is barely hung out of the jaws enough to put the thread on, single point thread mill, done all in in 4 hours.
 
Ya do it in a mill! Soft jaws so the thing is barely hung out of the jaws enough to put the thread on, single point thread mill, done all in in 4 hours.

Still not interested.
Those threads are long enough, and 303 is soft enough that you are not gonna get good threads. Unless a home-depot fit is good enough.
Spring pass will chatter. Nightmare job.
I could be wrong. But, experience tells me to walk away.
 
#0-80 is something like M1.5, which I didn't find in my stash at first glance, but I had an M2 regular pitch die, and a piece of soft 2mm grade 1 titanium wire, not so straight I must say, this is what you can do with the tools in the 2nd pic free hand with a chamfer I put on the end with a file (starting the die on the wire was difficult, which shows in the first couple threads)
IMG_20190301_201903.jpgIMG_20190301_201920.jpg

if I'd want to do better, I'd do this in a lathe, split bushing on the thin section, like already suggested, cut by hand, using a die holder in the tail stock, if I would want to do even better, follower rest for support and single pass one shallow cut to guide the die, job done
 
I wonder if the OP will come back with a usable drawing to quote from? Or maybe he reads the various suggests of which many will work and do them himself. There are many ways to make these parts, especially with only 33 needed.
 
It is pretty obvious some people don't have experience with small parts from some of the responses, simple as that. I have worked with them for decades. On the other hand I rarely make anything bigger than a coffee cup.


So quote this job and school us...? I work with small parts, but milling only, .006" and larger endmills.I have no idea about small turning .
 
So quote this job and school us...? I work with small parts, but milling only, .006" and larger endmills.I have no idea about small turning .

I can't quote off of the drawing in this thread. A lot of guys quote without all the information, that isn't me. I need to know the dimensions before I know the best plan of attack. If the drawing is to scale it looks like a one piece part that would be real simple on a Swiss style CNC Lathe. Or it could be best to second op the thread on a fixed headstock lathe using a split bushing and a collet closer. The op left a lot of details vague.
 
You cannot quote but rubbished my cost estimates for quality work.
I specifically mentioned quality machine work costs vs a basic die -- giving generally poor results.

Does Your plan of attack include go/no go gages for threads You have not done before.
Do You plan to qualify ie measure the thread pitch of the parts.
Does Your cheaper plan include availability to actually somewhat check root, crest, radius, thread d, of the threads ?

I did NOT indicate the parts would be expensive to 3-5k$ plus.
I indicated that the original OPs inferred quality engineers, management, qc, verified gaging, would result in such costs, ballpark.
As I read the post.

E.
I can easily make a similar thread for 100$ qty 1 (die cost), and 10$ each, later on.
It would not be very good quality, and might struggle to be to 2A/2B standards.

2.
Single-point turning in this case, will make excellent threads of great surface finish, with the right R in roots and crests.
These will be to 3A/B standards, or better, on a CNC lathe.

Yes, they will be great but unless one can prove / document it, the value of the quality mostly does not exist.

Add costs of thread gages, pitch d micrometer with suitable anvil, operator, time.
Liability or rework if some part is wrong.
Margin to cover stuff.

My post estimated running time of less than an hour, for 33 pcs.
That does not mean total costs of 1 hr x 250$ shop rate, at all.
Imo.
Ime.

I doubt we are far apart - and suspect we read different intentions from the OP.

I can't quote off of the drawing in this thread. A lot of guys quote without all the information, that isn't me. I need to know the dimensions before I know the best plan of attack. If the drawing is to scale it looks like a one piece part that would be real simple on a Swiss style CNC Lathe. Or it could be best to second op the thread on a fixed headstock lathe using a split bushing and a collet closer. The op left a lot of details vague.
 
Scaling the picture it looks like the threaded portion is .30 long.

How are you going to either single point, or thread mill (as has been suggested) 0-80 .30 long? It wouldn't even occur to me to try, especially in SS.

If it was me I'd use a die and be done with it.
 








 
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