Water Jet / Die Cutting or...? 1/4" thick natural rubber 'tires', Ø2.15" OD
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  1. #1
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    Default Water Jet / Die Cutting or...? 1/4" thick natural rubber 'tires', Ø2.15" OD

    Open to suggestions on how to make these. I worry about waterjet and the typical 'tit' left at the start / stop location on the OD. I can tolerate maybe a .020" high tit, but that's just a guess. These are prototypes for an inhouse product, and I'm sure this won't be the last revision.

    Material is 40A, 1/4" natural (gum) rubber. Like this: McMaster-Carr

    Qty 10, and quote Qty 100 & 500. Quote turn around time as well. I'm hoping to get prototypes within a couple weeks or less.

    All communication needs to be done through email: matt (at) rfrcustomfab (dot) com . Please state your username here in your first email so I know who you are. If your whole game is being the cheap guy, then don't bother. I need quality and reliability above price.

    1012-tire.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Open to suggestions on how to make these. I worry about waterjet and the typical 'tit' left at the start / stop location on the OD. I can tolerate maybe a .020" high tit, but that's just a guess. These are prototypes for an inhouse product, and I'm sure this won't be the last revision.

    Material is 40A, 1/4" natural (gum) rubber. Like this: McMaster-Carr

    Qty 10, and quote Qty 100 & 500. Quote turn around time as well. I'm hoping to get prototypes within a couple weeks or less.

    All communication needs to be done through email: matt (at) rfrcustomfab (dot) com . Please state your username here in your first email so I know who you are. If your whole game is being the cheap guy, then don't bother. I need quality and reliability above price.

    1012-tire.jpg
    Can you use polyurethane? If so we do lots of poly parts.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

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    The tit you speak of is not really a problem on the waterjet i have used, more a issue on laser. You have a lead in lead out on the waterjet to get over that.

    However cutting rubber without it moving and getting a reasonable good sized part, loosing the part after it is cut are the real issues.

    Mostly i have cut gaskets so loosing or adding a little bit is of no real concern.

    Look into moulding the product after you proto as there will be less wastage of material especially on quantities of 500.

    No need for a DXF as you can draw it up on the machine easy, sizing however will require some mucking around and wastage of material as you will get dud parts till you play with sizes of drawing. Offsets are set in the machine usually but rubber can overcut compared to cutting steel so you compensate by altering the drawing, not the offsets. Altering the offsets mucks up the next steel job.

    Look at o ring manufacturers see what they can do for you.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Street, the waterjet issues you talk about are exactly what I was afraid of.

    Ox ended up sending me contact info for a small molder, and I just cut a PO yesterday for 10 prototypes. $300 for a single cavity aluminum mold and 10 shots, 2 weeks to ship. I think that is super reasonable. Thanks Ox!


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