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Clark Forktruck Fuel Issue

DoerrMP

Plastic
Joined
May 21, 2019
Hello, This is my first post and im looking for some advice.

We have a 79 Clark C500-45 with a 4 cylinder GM style engine that runs off LPG.

We have replaced the following due to a previous no spark issue. Distributor cap,rotor,the magnetic pickup (that replaces the points), the ballast resistor. Everything was fine after that. A few weeks later it would not start, not even on starting fluid, and we still had spark. We consulted a local shop and they recommended replacing the vaporizer. so then we replaced the vaporizer, the solenoid, the hoses and fittings. Still no start. so a technician came out, and determined it was the carburetor. They stated the carburetor or rebuild kits were not available, so they sold us a "good used one". It ended up being a little different style (Impco CA-100). so we put it on, turned the fuel on, turned the key and gas came rushing out of the air cleaner. They were able to rebuild this particular carb so they did, we got it back, same thing happened. They then told us the new Vaporizer was defective so we replaced that a second time. no change.

Has anyone else had an issue like this before we spend any more money throwing parts at this? I have experience and education in the automotive field, but not with any of this LPG stuff.

Thanks!
 
if you can use a spanner,fix it yourself......there are a lot of fiddly,delicate bits in a gas system,and bits often stick.......none of it is rocket science,and anyone can work on a old carby can do it.repair kits for Impco stuff are freely available,and not expensive.....if in doubt ,fit a kit.....usually the gasoline carby is only used for the throttle valve,the rest is in the gas conversion....in any case ,if I wanted to do what you have done ,I would first check out TVH....they have everything,including a wide range of replacement electronic dizzys as direct replacements.......money spent repairing old dizzys is wasted,get a new one............finally ,if a system plays up.....make sure it isnt frozen water is the problem.
 
Unless the thought is that the current system was flooding the motor - the no-go issue with ether is very concerning.

Did you try giving it a snort with the gas off?

Otherwise it would seem that your distributor may have jumped a tooth or so. (I've done that on an old Continental)


But I'm guessing that you were flooding it with LP when you snorted it?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
The problem may be in the starter.......??? How come...you say.....well ,many systems have a second set of ignition contacts in the starter that shorts out the resistance for cranking,then reconnects thru the resistance to run.......this is a common cause of "it fires ,then it wont go"............but ,IMHO.....buy a new eleck tronic dizzy and a new coil............and for my 2c,get rid of any supressed components in the ignition,including sparkplugs.....
 
The problem may be in the starter.......??? How come...you say.....well ,many systems have a second set of ignition contacts in the starter that shorts out the resistance for cranking,then reconnects thru the resistance to run.......this is a common cause of "it fires ,then it wont go"............but ,IMHO.....buy a new eleck tronic dizzy and a new coil............and for my 2c,get rid of any supressed components in the ignition,including sparkplugs.....

I'd have to look at a wiring diagram to be sure, but I think the only way that can happen is if the ballast resistor is bad.

If the points have been swapped out for electronic, he can get an appropriately sized coil and get rid of the ballast resistor all together.
 








 
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