Clark utilitruc power steering cylinder
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  1. #1
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    Default Clark utilitruc power steering cylinder

    The PS cylinder on my 1963 hut100 clark is pissing fluid out the ram end.

    According to the build sheet I got from clark it says PS cylinder is a 325490.

    It is a welded unit, looks like it has been replaced at some point (its painted white).

    From what limited info I can find, it looks like they need cut open to repair, I think I found a replacement, but they are 700 bucks.

    I have been running PS fluid in the pump for it, but maybe ATF or a heavier hydraulic fluid may keep it from leaking so much?

    I am sure I could find a place to repair it, maybe.

    Anyone have any experience with these?

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    Replace it with a standard cylinder of similar size

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    Replace it with a standard cylinder of similar size
    Not sure that is possible.

    It's not quite a typical cylinder, by the time I tried to modify an off the shelf one, I would have way too much time in it.

    It looks pretty close to this:



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    Actual cylinder, hard to photograph well.

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    Is that the "steering box" built into the cylinder end? Does the cylinder body screw into the box?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    Is that the "steering box" built into the cylinder end? Does the cylinder body screw into the box?
    The first picture shows the end that hooks to the drag link for the steering, which looks like a typical tie rod end that threads on and clamps. There are 4 bolts right there by where the steering arm attaches to it. You turn wheel, pitman arm travels to pull that arm forward or backwards. The PS cylinder has it's own pump and two lines that run to cylinder.

    I would guess that is technically a steering box.

    It's an odd set up.

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    I am planning on pulling it out tomorrow. Figure I will use every swear word I know before it's out.

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    Am I missing something, or does this cylinder function solely from the back end? If so, that indicates to me that there'a an internal passage for retract. That's usually done by an inside tube for the piston and the outside tube for fluid for in and out.

    Here's an old post that may apply. The link in that post no longer works.
    OT 901 Ford power steering fix

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    5 hours later, sacrificed exhaust, completely covered in grease and grime it's out.

    It won't let me upload picture of end of ram, but there is a snap ring that must hold that seal in. I will take it to my favorite hydraulic shop tomorrow and see if they think I should completely rebuild it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Behner View Post
    Am I missing something, or does this cylinder function solely from the back end? If so, that indicates to me that there'a an internal passage for retract. That's usually done by an inside tube for the piston and the outside tube for fluid for in and out.

    Here's an old post that may apply. The link in that post no longer works.
    OT 901 Ford power steering fix
    Yes, I believe you are correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Green View Post
    Yes, I believe you are correct.

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    I was hopin'. Here's some pics of how I made a retro fit kit for a Ford 901 tractor. Actually, I made 4 sets. It won't apply directly to your's, but may help.
    Ford 901 by Ray Behner | Photobucket

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Behner View Post
    I was hopin'. Here's some pics of how I made a retro fit kit for a Ford 901 tractor. Actually, I made 4 sets. It won't apply directly to your's, but may help.
    Ford 901 by Ray Behner | Photobucket
    My phone won't let me open that link.



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    That vickers steering cylinder/valve is not hard to rebuild. The cylinder separates and can be machined apart at the weld closer to the valve assy. Be careful to save the two square seals between the cyl/valve section. The valve is just normal orings but are fussy when it comes to adjusting the spring. The cylinder has generic an style wiper and a TP style rod seal, some have a single case iron piston seal (reuse it) or a 2-piece Teflon piston seal.

    Edit: correction TR rod seal

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    Quote Originally Posted by e-fishin-c View Post
    That vickers steering cylinder/valve is not hard to rebuild. The cylinder separates and can be machined apart at the weld closer to the valve assy. Be careful to save the two square seals between the cyl/valve section. The valve is just normal orings but are fussy when it comes to adjusting the spring. The cylinder has generic an style wiper and a TP style rod seal, some have a single case iron piston seal (reuse it) or a 2-piece Teflon piston seal.

    Edit: correction TR rod seal
    It would probably be in my best interest to just have it rebuilt by my usual shop. They can fix, make, build anything hydraulic related. Great old shop.

    Vickers, thank you.

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    That's great, thank you. Looks like a ton of seals and packing parts in the ram end.

    I bet my hydraulic shop has all those seals for that end.

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    No real help..just a war story.

    I bought a old forklift with that same cylinder. The cylinder was DOA and steering was 'armstrong' only. I farked around and ended up rebuilding the cylinder and all was COOL, except the machine was in a constant left turn. After more farking and adjusting, things were resolved and the steering was perfect. Those units are quite sensitive to set correctly...and a forklift with a 3" ground clearance is a real bitch to work under!

    Stuart

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    I’ve done plenty of them. Figure out if the leaks are in the valve area or the cylinder, both don’t need to come apart. The valve adjustment is touchy so best not to mess with it if it doesn’t leak and it works ok.
    The cylinder rod seals can be easily replaced without taking apart the whole unit, but most units need a new chrome plated hyd rod shaft fabricated because of worn chrome.
    I have some NOS parts on some of these units if you get in a jam.

    There are several different sizes of these p/s units and vickers used different strokes when building them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by e-fishin-c View Post
    I’ve done plenty of them. Figure out if the leaks are in the valve area or the cylinder, both don’t need to come apart. The valve adjustment is touchy so best not to mess with it if it doesn’t leak and it works ok.
    The cylinder rod seals can be easily replaced without taking apart the whole unit, but most units need a new chrome plated hyd rod shaft fabricated because of worn chrome.
    I have some NOS parts on some of these units if you get in a jam.

    There are several different sizes of these p/s units and vickers used different strokes when building them.
    The only leak I could actually see was from rod seal end. Everything was filthy under this thing, but a lot of that is from seeping hoses going to this and the PS fluid reservoir leaked like crazy. This cylinder has been rebuilt once, it has been painted white over the original clark green.

    I may just try to replace seals and packing on rod end and give it a go.



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  24. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    No real help..just a war story.

    I bought a old forklift with that same cylinder. The cylinder was DOA and steering was 'armstrong' only. I farked around and ended up rebuilding the cylinder and all was COOL, except the machine was in a constant left turn. After more farking and adjusting, things were resolved and the steering was perfect. Those units are quite sensitive to set correctly...and a forklift with a 3" ground clearance is a real bitch to work under!

    Stuart
    I think there is about 6" under this one, I blocked under the mast and picked up the ass end with my other lift so I could block it.

    About 13k pounds I believe.

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