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Fixing to pick up a older model Grob bandsaw Tuesday

4GSR

Diamond
Joined
Jan 25, 2005
Location
Victoria, Texas, USA
I'm fixing to pick up a older model Grob bandsaw Tuesday that is located about 200 miles from my place. I want to place a couple of 2 x 6 runners under the bandsaw and secure. From the pictures provided there are no external brackets on the base of the saw for bolting down to a skid. My question is, does anyone know if there are any hidden holes inside the base that would serve for this purpose? If so, what size holes would they be? Next question would be, where would be a good place to lift the bandsaw to place on my trailer? Are there any lifting points or a for an eye bolt on the upper saw frame?
thanks, Ken
 
I belive it has a 3/4-10 threaded lifting hole in the upper arm. It is rated to lift the entire machine with a proper rated, forged, lifting eye. It can also be used as a tie down point for shipping, if the straps do not foul the table.
 
There are four corner plates inside the frame with 1/2" diameter holes on the old 36" model with the belt drive. The older versions of the saw do not have a provision for a lifting eye bolt. Lifting is done by placing the forklift forks underneath the upper frame. The blade access door can be damaged while doing this. The later variable belt speed/gear box designs have the lifting eye and are missing the corner bolt plates. They have short legs installed where the corner plates were located. I installed casters with 1/2" studs in the corner plates to allow the saw to be moved about easily.

The pivoting mount for the table can be a problem.The table is attached to the trunnion with four bolts. My saw experienced some self induced stress relief while in the Navy and now only has a 3 point table mounting. It works fine even though one of the four mounting brackets is missing.

I replaced the aluminum bronze upper and lower blade guides with carbide guides. The side guides are made up of stacks of coated 443 DNMG inserts. A 1" wide blade uses a three high stack of inserts. A 3/8" wide blade is run with a single high stack. The guides are run with no clearance. The guides are hand held against the tensioned blade while the 10-32 screw through the center of the inserts is tightened. The large number of indexable surfaces available insures that the guide will last for several life times.
The back of the blade is supported by a 3/16 square by 1" long carbide blank held in a slot milled in the insert backing plate. I frequently run the saw at maximum speed and the blade shows no wear from the coated insert guides.
 
Guys,

Thank you for your inputs. I'll take a hand full of various eye bolts sizes if I get lucky and be able to lift over head. Have plenty of chains and lifting straps to take along, too. There is a fork lift available. I'll probably be the driver if I have it my way.:D I'm going into uncharted waters here as I've never seen a Grob bandsaw that I recall. Always been DoAll's.

Just so happens I have some carbide flat stock that would be just perfect for wear pads for those Ampco bronze guides. May have to make a set out of steel so I can sweat the carbide in place.

Got to get the bandsaw home first, them worry about what to fix on it next.

Ken
 
If you are not real familiar with a belt drive Grob I’ll give you a little hint. There is a door on the side and a smaller one on the back, ours had a window too black with belt dust to see through. Opening the little door is how you loosen the belts! Who knew, certainly not the guys that didn’t change the speeds or belts because the couldn’t loosen them.
 
Oh yeah, that window is useless. I have it sitting in my driveway now. It is a 10 speed, needs a little work. S/N 4168. has a bunch of those aluminum bronze blocks, some have a spot of white, others red, and some lost their paint. Not a full set for all blade sizes. Just interested in using 1/4", - 1/2" wide blades right now. I'll post a few pictures this weekend, too busy with work at the moment. Ken
 
There are a couple of issues on the NS series Grob saws.
When changing the belt from high to low range or vice versa it almost requires 3 hands to do the belt change.
The air pump for the chip blower is difficult to access. It requires frequent lubrication. On older saws it is likely shot. I connected the chip blower to shop air.
 
There are a couple of issues on the NS series Grob saws.
When changing the belt from high to low range or vice versa it almost requires 3 hands to do the belt change.
The air pump for the chip blower is difficult to access. It requires frequent lubrication. On older saws it is likely shot. I connected the chip blower to shop air.

Did you open the little door to release the belts? They were really easy to change when the little door is open! If at first you don’t succeed try reading the instructions. That is how I know about this feature.
 
Didi it have a threaded hole for a lifting eye? What size? Rough idea on vintage. I know Bridgeport lifting eye hole went from 1/2" to 5/8" over time
Bill D
 
Bill,

I got up on top and did not find any holes of any kind to put a lifting eye into. We took and lifted it by slipping the forks under the over arm part of the bandsaw with a 2 x 10 under it keep it from moving around. When I set it on the trailer, I placed 2 x 6's under the bandsaw for ski's. Secured them with lag screws, did find two of the mounting holes in the base of the saw. Then I lag screwed the ski's to the trailer bed. Threw a couple of straps over the saw and up the road we went!

Ken
 
Excellent! Seems like there's always a surprise on site when rigging. You done good.

Did you open the little door to release the belts? They were really easy to change when the little door is open! If at first you don’t succeed try reading the instructions. That is how I know about this feature.

There seem to be variations in NS18 door locations and drivetrain configurations over the years. Does opening the "little door" lift the motor on that model? (On mine, there's an outside lever that does it.)

In any case, lifting the motor base makes it easy to shift belts to change speeds within ranges, ie, 1-5, 6-10, but between ranges mine is indeed a pita to change. Not often needed (mostly I just run it in high range), but still, the range change takes some doing.
 
Still haven't posted any pictures yet, been raining something fearce here. May need to make an Ark using this bandsaw if it don't let up.

I hope the V-belt numbers given in the parts diagram are correct, just ordered $66 worth!. Not too worried about bearings right now, most of them appear to be standard 6205 bearings. There is one listed as a Fafiner 20IRT2G and 20INT2. They look too big for a 201 series bearing, so I assume it is a "I" and not a "1" in the number. This is the bearings in the bandsaw wheel assy. The lower one are a 207 series.

And last, can anyone explain to me how this "thing" is used? The instruction manual I found online is not very descriptive on it's use
 

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And last, can anyone explain to me how this "thing" is used? The instruction manual I found online is not very descriptive on it's use

As shown in the picture:
Grob Air Hydraulic Feed 6V Models | The Tool Mart Inc

It connects the weight driven slider to the serrated part pusher. It is not of much use unless you have the weight set with chain, the sliding pull bar with the holes, and the serrated parts pusher.
 
Okay, I did find the serrated vee shaped piece. Missing the flat bar with the series of holes in it. It maybe buried in the bottom of the shaving box under the lower bandsaw wheel. That's where the serrated piece was in. The weights and chain are there, can't find the end of the chain though. I think it is there, just need to fish it out of the hidden part of the saw table.
 








 
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