What's new
What's new

Garage over head lifting beam

MW1009

Plastic
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
I know this has been talked about a lot. Can’t seem to find a definite answer anywhere. Engineering websites aren’t giving straight answers either.

I have a 22’ I beam on the way. W8x 21. It was an extra for a building so I got a decent price.
I’m just wondering about the support for the beam. I’m thinking an A frame made from 2” 1/8 wall square tubing. The beam is limiting me to no more then 1 ton if I go by paper. If I need to lift more I’ll figure it out.
As for the A frame idea, I’m thinking it will be just fine for what I need, but any criticism or comments/ feedback would be great.

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 1DEDAC4A-1B26-4BD9-B4B5-D8AF8CCC10C7.jpg
    1DEDAC4A-1B26-4BD9-B4B5-D8AF8CCC10C7.jpg
    14.8 KB · Views: 199
2".120 legs seem to small, I would go at least 3" and maybe .188 wall.
They will hold the dead load no problem but when you get some swing on the load I would worry about them tacoing.
Also if the legs clamped onto the beam it is then possible to slide them closer together for heavy lifts. Not a good idea to drill the flanges if you think you will max out the capacity.
4' spread at feet should be doubled to 8' and add a bottom crossmember to connect them (8')
The only way I would like the 4' spread is if the feet were bolted down.
 
I strongly recommend you get a structural engineer to run some calculations for you. There are lots of risks in what you are doing. 22' is quite a substantial span.
 
I know this has been talked about a lot. Can’t seem to find a definite answer anywhere. Engineering websites aren’t giving straight answers either.

I have a 22’ I beam on the way. W8x 21. It was an extra for a building so I got a decent price.
I’m just wondering about the support for the beam. I’m thinking an A frame made from 2” 1/8 wall square tubing. The beam is limiting me to no more then 1 ton if I go by paper. If I need to lift more I’ll figure it out.
As for the A frame idea, I’m thinking it will be just fine for what I need, but any criticism or comments/ feedback would be great.

Thanks

You should be OK so long as you don't put more than a dozen ignorant wire coat hangers on it with heavy winter clothing all at the same time.

1/4 Ton AKA 500 lbs IOW. Good enough to pull the average "modern" thinwall / light alloy passenger car engine, trans included.

Half-ton? Think 980 lbs plus of an all-Iron 1950's MOPAR Hemi or a Cummins Diesel? Risky. Very!

One Ton? 2,000 lbs? Not on my watch. Free span is too long.

Have a look at store-bought Vestil or similar rolling gantry - even Horror-Fright one. They'd use less that half of that span.

But you can shorten it for a specific tasking.

I place a pair of "demolition jacks" under my W10 50 to subtend only a fraction of the free span whenever I need to actually USE even half the 3-Ton beam trolley rating.

Which was the minimum trolley size I could find to FIT the 8" wide, 3/8" thick flanges .... but waaay too much for a 25-foot span.

Be cautious. Live long and prosper.
 
There are so many questions:
- what kind of floor
- what kind of bolts
- how much load on the beam
- how much deflection expected in worst case on the beam
- point loads, distributed loads?
- do you have earthquakes in your area, hurricanes, etc???
- will the load be dynamic, e.g. moving along the beam, any side to side motion possible?
You really need to hire a structural engineer to run the numbers, a very small price to pay rather than being crushed to death.
 
Guess I’ll keep using my wooden roof truss.

Dont mind the naysayers. Here is a link to washington crane, look at the catalogs for spanco and gorbel, most all info you need is in there. Stick to close to the sizes and capacities listed and you will be fine. 1 ton on 22' might be a little more that it "should" lift, but these guys build in some serious safety factor...
Gantry Cranes
 
Post #6 is why you can't find an "Off the shelf answer" on the internet.

Please continue using the wood roof trusses.

Well.. 'nam era, Engineer Officer Candidates would actually go and assess REAL bridges as part of demolitions training - calculating how we could do the job best and most economically, or fastest if we had to do, and what we needed of whichever type of explosives might or might not be available.

States were happy with that. They got back a side benefit.

We'd also advise them that certain bridges in daily use were in SAD CONDITION!

May have gotten worse since 1966, too?

So assume little... just because something has not fallen down YET!

Do the homework. Double check. Get another wise / experienced / trained if possible pair of eyes on it "at the outset, " that does not have the "but I WANT to, dammit!" disease as can easily lead a person into danger.

Roof truss? Triangulated. That's why we call them a "truss" not a "rafter'.

Wood talks, bitches, grumbles, complains when abused. Gives warnings, IOW.

Steel does NOT give warning. It just fails. And FAST!

You do not ALWAYS get a chance to do it over .....afterwards..
 
I’m not talking about lifting 10 or 20 tons here. I’ve been a few places, seen a few things. I’m not a “backyard” mechanic.
I appreciate the comments/posts, some more then others.
Working around the old fellas I’ve lifted more the 1 Ton with a lot less.
As for any more, or maybe when I do need to lift a ton, I will have a third leg, maybe 6x6, to wedge in next to the load I’m taking.
This is not rocket science. I’ll figure it out.
 
Seems like you're good at 2000# for x<L/480 deflection and a safety factor of 4 compared to A36 yield.

There can be some dynamics if you use an electric chain hoist or something that accelerates/brakes the load quickly and can cause shaking behavior.

The welding you do on this is high stakes: I also recommend .187 to .250 walls, do your welding with DCEP 7018 sticks, align parts to be "welded on the flat" as you fabricate the end pieces. A very bad choice imo is to rely on a low powered mig welder.

I like the gussetting between the beam and the legs.

Some thought is goign to be needed in assembling it, the beam is ~400# and has to be raised up 8-10' and aligned with the legs. Important to consider "lower hook height" which gets lower and lower as crane hooks, trolleys, and the prime mover lift are added. It might seem good for now but later any extra hook height would be well received (as if unloading from a trailer). However the inside structure and dimensions of the building may dictate this dimension for you.
 
I have 12’ walls in garage, and I bottom on top plates I guess it works out to 12’ 4.5”. I’m going to try and get this as high as possible but I’m thinking the 11’ high would be enough, as to leave a bit of room to get it on the supports.
I will need a small loader or forklift for sure
 
I’m not talking about lifting 10 or 20 tons here. I’ve been a few places, seen a few things. I’m not a “backyard” mechanic.
I appreciate the comments/posts, some more then others.
Working around the old fellas I’ve lifted more the 1 Ton with a lot less.
As for any more, or maybe when I do need to lift a ton, I will have a third leg, maybe 6x6, to wedge in next to the load I’m taking.
This is not rocket science. I’ll figure it out.

Side load or shock are obvious "enemies" of safe working.

But most rolled-beam shape failures are ultimately due to twist.

What to do? Well.. steel itself isn't actually terribly costly for how long it can serve.

Paired beams, modest spacing, proper traveler, and you can really have a much nicer rig?

Just a thought.

I actually have the opportunity, inherited. "Sort of". The PO built - actually OVER built, as he was in the construction trade, for a full second story over the uber-low attic garage/annex --> shop.

Then got divorced, sold the place, before he ever got it past zoning!

But.. the heavy buggers are ten feet apart!

No matter. My needs, I prefer toe jacks and skates in any case.

:D
 
That would be nice lol, x, y, and z movement. But Unfortunately i have a budget and that’s not even close lol.
This would not be a rolling gantry. Now those things sketch me out. Hit a small pebble or rock on the floor then tipping over becomes a hazard for sure.
 
I know this has been talked about a lot. Can’t seem to find a definite answer anywhere. Engineering websites aren’t giving straight answers either.

I have a 22’ I beam on the way. W8x 21. It was an extra for a building so I got a decent price.
I’m just wondering about the support for the beam. I’m thinking an A frame made from 2” 1/8 wall square tubing. The beam is limiting me to no more then 1 ton if I go by paper. If I need to lift more I’ll figure it out.
As for the A frame idea, I’m thinking it will be just fine for what I need, but any criticism or comments/ feedback would be great.

Thanks

That would be nice lol, x, y, and z movement. But Unfortunately i have a budget and that’s not even close lol.
This would not be a rolling gantry. Now those things sketch me out. Hit a small pebble or rock on the floor then tipping over becomes a hazard for sure.

Your first post clearly stated "A-Frame" and 99% of the people here would
believe "rolling" as most every vendor of these only offers them with casters under them.

Looks like your gonna have to doo some homework yourself, consult the engineering books dealing with safe loading, and make sure it takes into account rolling over conditions.

Also your legs, as said up above by Matt, look too skinny, consult euhlers (sp) moments table.

If this is too much over your head, try asking "nicely" over here:
Eng-Tips Engineering Forums
 
That would be nice lol, x, y, and z movement. But Unfortunately i have a budget and that’s not even close lol.
This would not be a rolling gantry. Now those things sketch me out. Hit a small pebble or rock on the floor then tipping over becomes a hazard for sure.

LOL! Brooms are important!

Previous owner than built the "annex" was Vice Pres of a commercial paving firm! My floor is textbook perfect and waay thick on waay nicer "base" than average. LOVELY for operating steel ball-bearing-race wheel skates! Urethane is easier yet.

Lower drivway is VDOT spec for a State 2-lane highway. "Magic carpet" link a whole tribe of the urethanes, I can even traverse it in summer heat!

Brand new neighbour had a krew out Saturday, ripped out his 1972 vintage TWO-inch asphalt driveway, poured concrete, same day, said "no more putting a coating on every few years! "Its FOREVER!"

Well..he was walking on it, less than 12 hours later.. so I know what TF those fly-by-nights had poured! Three, maybe four, Virginia winters worth of "forever".

'Minds me. 20 years since I "topped" my 2" upper driveway. More than one kind of topping out there. Mine ain't on DIRT like his'n, either. Two foot of rock and gravel, rather!

You'd have to know paving contractor Vee Pee's and "government work" on their own homes? It's why I BOUGHT it!

:D



:(
 
I have 12’ walls in garage, and I bottom on top plates I guess it works out to 12’ 4.5”. I’m going to try and get this as high as possible but I’m thinking the 11’ high would be enough, as to leave a bit of room to get it on the supports.
I will need a small loader or forklift for sure

Safer, yes. Working inside a laundry/utility room in TIGHT quarters, I put an 8-incher up with a pair of jacks, ratchet straps to prevent sliding around, and paired successive criss-crossed timber grillage stacks once.

Kinda Roman Army Seige master style?

Can't recommend it!

Safe enough. Cheap enough, given I had another use for the wood upcoming and it weren't but 8 foot up, 10 foot length, 8 foot free span.

Bloody TEDIOUS close work - all-day job and take-down for one Old Fart working alone though!

Rented Telehandler fit indoors?
 
With a 2000 lb load in center without the weight of the beam, Max Displacement 0.15634 in @ 127.00 in
Max Shear 0.50000 kips @ 0.0000 in
Max Moment 63.500 kip-in @ 127.00 in
up to you use it or not...Phil
 








 
Back
Top