Hitch Ball Mount: Forged vs. hollow tube welded . Curt vs. Northern Tool house brand - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, trim off the edge of the bumper step for clearance, touch up paint.

    Or weld a new receiver to the underside of that step and the existing receiver, unless that would affect the height too much.

    It looks like a poorly designed step unless they were intending to drill hitch ball holes right in the step for a class 3 ball. It should be recessed to clear a standard hitch

    One vote for the forged hitch.

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    Mine is similar / identical? to the 6 inch drop unit you have shown and is made in China. It is fitted with a 20k ball as well and has never given me any trouble.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by motion guru View Post
    Mine is similar / identical? to the 6 inch drop unit you have shown and is made in China. It is fitted with a 20k ball as well and has never given me any trouble.
    Is yours a 2.5" shank (Class 5) or 2" (class 4) ?

    You mean the 2nd picture? The one with the smooth sides like below?



    Or does it look like this, with the rough sides that looks like parting lines.

















  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Duncan View Post
    Angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, trim off the edge of the bumper step for clearance, touch up paint.

    Or weld a new receiver to the underside of that step and the existing receiver, unless that would affect the height too much.

    It looks like a poorly designed step unless they were intending to drill hitch ball holes right in the step for a class 3 ball. It should be recessed to clear a standard hitch

    One vote for the forged hitch.

    Bumper is made in Texas , brand is Ranchhand.

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    It has the rough sides and is a 2-1/2 inch unit . . . Class 5

    it was this unit . . . Sloppy Fit in the Receiver, but otherwise ok.

    since that review, I would switch the rating to 5 stars

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    ...and yet again, we have the "I'm Spud and I want the ultimate in everything"

    Buy a damn $20 HF 3 way with the 1/8" wall box tube and you'll be fine.
    See them on 1 ton duallys pulling 10k trailers all day long....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spud View Post
    Or does it look like this, with the rough sides that looks like parting lines.
    You do know that forged components have "parting lines" right?
    See the link to CFS forge for examples of trailer hitch & machinist clamps among other components.

    Drop Forging products

    Do you know how to visually tell a forged from a cast crankshaft for an engine? Hint: has to do with the parting lines...

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH View Post
    No More forged hitches for me.
    Attachment 278102
    2 1/2" class V hitch, 12K on a 14k trailer. Luckily there was a forklift on the trailer. We unloaded, picked up the trailer and moved it off the road. I ran to a local trailer shop to grab a replacement and showed them this picture. Salesman says "That's not supposed to happen." Duh, here's your sign. Bob
    FIL had one of the top of the line aluminum ones fail like that right out of the box. Totalled a $60K truck going down a steep driveway.


    I've seen most failures at the bolts and flanges where the hitch is attached to the frame.

    Some of the new trucks (GM cough cough) have the cheezdickest hitch, "but it has a 2-1/2" socket, so must be good". That damn hitch will fold right up and scissor the frame if you get in a wreck with a trailer in tow.

    I bought an F-350 from Columbia Helicopters years ago that had a bumper they fabbed up. It was 5" 1/4 wall tube set into 6x6 1" thick angle. I welded a 2" receiver socket to the bottom of the step and have had that bumper on 4 different trucks now. I just weld it to the frame. I'm pretty partial to that bumper. Has been in a few wrecks and backed right into some solid stuff intentionally and doesn't phase it. I doubt it weighs much more than a regular step bumper and hitch added together, but it sure does the job better. Have to say it looks better than most aftermarket rear bumbers too. Damn ranch hand things are hideous. Jesus.

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    You are way over thinking this. For the size rental trailer you are moving and the size load you are dealing with, you can just get a paper thin steel tube hitch and be done with it. But since you have the silly bumper (for sand jumping(!), if I recall correctly) that you won't modify, then go find one of the super silly extended drop hitch things that the lifted truck guys use to haul their lawn mower trailer.

    For a more taxing job get a solid steel hitch. Not the i-beam thing. The big 'ol lump of steel with a couple holes in it kind. Fleet Farm $50 or $60. Tractor Supply about the same. 2" and using the 2 to 2-1/2" sleeve is fine. I run that way and have low tens of thousands of miles on that setup.

  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garwood View Post

    I bought an F-350 from Columbia Helicopters years ago that had a bumper they fabbed up. It was 5" 1/4 wall tube set into 6x6 1" thick angle. I welded a 2" receiver socket to the bottom of the step and have had that bumper on 4 different trucks now. I just weld it to the frame. I'm pretty partial to that bumper. Has been in a few wrecks and backed right into some solid stuff intentionally and doesn't phase it. I doubt it weighs much more than a regular step bumper and hitch added together, but it sure does the job better. Have to say it looks better than most aftermarket rear bumbers too. Damn ranch hand things are hideous. Jesus.

    I build bumpers from time to time. While the customer wants them overbuilt and ready to go up against a tank I ask them, what do you want to bend? The frame or the bumper?

    I would rather have bolts shear or bumpers bend than have it so stout that the next weakest point is the frame.

    As for the Ranch Hand bumpers, I had one and got rid of it for the very same reason that the OP is asking about. One, they are too big, can't use the hitch at 100% due to the stick out, and it will rust quickly.

    Sold the Ranch Hand and made my own practical version.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kb0thn View Post
    You are way over thinking this. For the size rental trailer you are moving and the size load you are dealing with, you can just get a paper thin steel tube hitch and be done with it. But since you have the silly bumper (for sand jumping(!), if I recall correctly) that you won't modify, then go find one of the super silly extended drop hitch things that the lifted truck guys use to haul their lawn mower trailer.

    For a more taxing job get a solid steel hitch. Not the i-beam thing. The big 'ol lump of steel with a couple holes in it kind. Fleet Farm $50 or $60. Tractor Supply about the same. 2" and using the 2 to 2-1/2" sleeve is fine. I run that way and have low tens of thousands of miles on that setup.
    I feel like I need to read that thread.

  13. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    I feel like I need to read that thread.
    Here you go:
    OT: Gas engine preferable for Dune bashing ?

    He bought an 8,000 lb truck to dune bash twice a month.

    It makes a much sense to me as a former employee who bought a big late model diesel pickup truck with 5th wheel hitch occupying most of the bed. He doesn't own a 5th wheel anything. I offered use of a company forklift to help remove it from his bed so he could, I figured, have a usable pickup truck. He declined and got upset. Truck has probably hauled nothing more than his lunch pail.

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  15. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    You do know that forged components have "parting lines" right?
    See the link to CFS forge for examples of trailer hitch & machinist clamps among other components.

    Drop Forging products

    Do you know how to visually tell a forged from a cast crankshaft for an engine? Hint: has to do with the parting lines...

    I don't/didn't doubt it was forged since Curt stated it is forged. Plus the fact that a casting would not make sense on such a stressed part. I only mentioned "parting lines" because another poster did, and to differentiate it from the other ball-mount with smooth sides.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kb0thn View Post
    You are way over thinking this. For the size rental trailer you are moving and the size load you are dealing with, you can just get a paper thin steel tube hitch and be done with it. But since you have the silly bumper (for sand jumping(!), if I recall correctly) that you won't modify, then go find one of the super silly extended drop hitch things that the lifted truck guys use to haul their lawn mower trailer.

    For a more taxing job get a solid steel hitch. Not the i-beam thing. The big 'ol lump of steel with a couple holes in it kind. Fleet Farm $50 or $60. Tractor Supply about the same. 2" and using the 2 to 2-1/2" sleeve is fine. I run that way and have low tens of thousands of miles on that setup.
    Bumper came with the truck. Bought truck from dealer in Texas. I don't need this style of bumper , and will replace it, though not right now.

    I bought the truck , primarily, to haul stuff around . I was spending a lot on renting pickups from enterprise, and it is really inconvenient to have to rent. I wanted the diesel for the fuel economy and longevity. The dune bashing thing was a side preference, wanting to have 1 truck that I could use for recreational use also.

    Reading Motion's post, I bought the above shown ball-mount, the one with the faux 'parting line' sides,

  17. #35
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    Why not just make something? I made a clevis mount years ago for my Duramax truck and it worked out great...made from solid steel bar.

  18. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by motion guru View Post
    It has the rough sides and is a 2-1/2 inch unit . . . Class 5

    it was this unit . . . Sloppy Fit in the Receiver, but otherwise ok.

    since that review, I would switch the rating to 5 stars
    I just bought the same unit.

    Quote Originally Posted by plastikdreams View Post
    Why not just make something? I made a clevis mount years ago for my Duramax truck and it worked out great...made from solid steel bar.
    Not really worth the hassle, when the Curt is $55 new. I could make my own that is safe but I tend to doubt myself.


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