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Hyster Challenger H80 / Monotrol / Wet clutch plate / Source to buy

m-lud

m-lud

Stainless
Joined
Sep 4, 2016
20210817_084315.jpg20210817_084315.jpgi have a recent problem with a sticking clutch. I take off a access plate and loosen pressure plate bolts and bump the starter with it in gear. Coil wire off. This has worked but last time stripped the friction material off of one side.
I put a 4x4 wedged in to hold the peddle down when parked and it still sticks ??
The plate is made in mexico so its been changed.
I usually change the pressure plate and throw out bearing but not this time. Ill block the pressure plate and flywheel with 320.

Does anyone have a aftermarket parts source. Rather not pay Hyster prices. Wet clutch.
5 years and first fail. Cant live without it.

12" clutch plate, 1 1/8" root diameter spline , 1 3/8" 0uter diameter spline. 10 spline shaft.
 
Last edited:
No pictures so I don't know exactly what you're wanting, but if you need a laminated clutch plate have you brought the old one down to a torque converter rebuilder? They can laminate friction material onto anything.
 
I had on old Hyster that I loved, and used to get great used parts from Joe Werthmann at (link)All Brand Forklift Parts Co in Ft Worth. Very knowledgeable and great to deal with. I bought a complete clutch from him to convert a hydraulic to a manual, and lots of other stuff for different machines over the years.
 
Jefff
thanks for the link
. I seen a clutch plate that looked like mine that doesn't have any specs. $370.00

Here is my serial number tag. It has seen better days.
I think it says C005022921B
I better stamp it into the fender while it's still legible.

20210817_131838.jpg
 
Garwood said:
How is this a Monotrol????

Your pictures show shifters???
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with all the different drive models. It may not be. It says Monotrol on that tag is why I said that but after looking again it lists other drives also. White circle upper left.. That tag must be generic. I must have the Standrive.
Thanks for the correction. .
I think your suggestion off getting my plate re-lined may be best. I spent some time searching before asking on the forum.
Not finding much

Inked20210817_085246_LI.jpg
 
Looks like the clutch /tranny been waterlogged at some time.....anyhoo ,the pressure plate is a standard Lipe,and getting the friction discs resurfaced /lined is a lot cheaper than buying new ones........I have the same machine,suffered much abuse ,...............I would comment though,the steering box will get water in it from the hollow shaft ,unless the hole is plugged,as I see the machine is outdoors.
 
john.k said:
Looks like the clutch /tranny been waterlogged at some time.....anyhoo ,the pressure plate is a standard Lipe,and getting the friction discs resurfaced /lined is a lot cheaper than buying new ones........I have the same machine,suffered much abuse ,...............I would comment though,the steering box will get water in it from the hollow shaft ,unless the hole is plugged,as I see the machine is outdoors.
Click to expand...

Your post explains where my system gets water in tthe hydraulics. It is inside most of the time. It broke down where its sitting. I leave it out on occasion. The previous owner kept it outside..
I have changed fluid twice and it gets milky before long.. Raining down into the steering shaft. I looked around the hydraulic tank and couldn't see where water was getting in.
So that is what was going on with the clutch. sticking. I wondered why the friction material came off so clean. The pieces that peeled off felt soft. Waterlogged !

Well I appreciate you pointing that out John.. Ill cap that steering wheel . The new clutch plate will last longer.

We have some trouble with hydraulic oil picking up condensation through high humidity in Missouri but this was excessive.

They are well built. It had a rigged up carburetor when I bought it so I converted it to propane and added aa Pertronics ignition
 
Kentucky clutch brooks ky 502-955-9173 seen some odd stuff in there . They have people ship them stufff from all over the country
 
John K
The steering box is basically a valve body activated by A worm gear or other mechanics . Just verifying weather or not you were saying water can get into the shared hydraulic system. Otherwise I need to look for another source of water getting in. the main hydraulic tank. Seeping past a seal while the steering box is not under pressure. I'm also concerned about water in the steering box bearings .
Either way I need to stop the water from getting in.
That hole in the steering shaft was staring me in the face

mmarquette
Thanks for the link.
 
Im pretty sure the steering box worm and rollers run in EP gear oil,separate from the hydraulic system........any H80 thats been in a hire fleet with have a 1 1/2 " hole cut in the front cowl ,to allow access to the plug on the steering box,filler I assume ......the drain is usually underneath.......Im also reasonably sure the box is a single cam roller Ross ...as you mention a "Hydropower"......anyhoo,as a forklift repairer since before these things were new,I ve seen a lot of grunchy boxes on Hysters .......with the power boost ,a certain deal of grunch can be tolerated ,provided bearings dont fail completely and lock the box.
 
john.k said:
Im pretty sure the steering box worm and rollers run in EP gear oil,separate from the hydraulic system........any H80 thats been in a hire fleet with have a 1 1/2 " hole cut in the front cowl ,to allow access to the plug on the steering box,filler I assume ......the drain is usually underneath.......Im also reasonably sure the box is a single cam roller Ross ...as you mention a "Hydropower"......anyhoo,as a forklift repairer since before these things were new,I ve seen a lot of grunchy boxes on Hysters .......with the power boost ,a certain deal of grunch can be tolerated ,provided bearings dont fail completely and lock the box.
Click to expand...

I'm clear on that now. The steering works fine now without too much steering wheel slop. Ill change that oil in the steering box.

The vent on the hydraulic systems on lift trucks draws in and expels so much air when the mast raises and falls that moisture in the air gets drawn into the oil. Especially when humidity is 95 %. I still may have water getting in another way but I cant see where.
It's best to not let it get rained on.
Changing fluids gets so expensive. Water in oil causes this clutch failure and hurts pumps / bearings ...... That's more expensive.

Those little globe shaped water traps that screw on a paint gun work well to trap condensation. Something larger that hooks up to a vent cap to catch condensation would be nice. It cant be restrictive

The first water trap Ii seen was when I was a kid my grandfather built an air compressor and took a 3" diameter piece of iron pipe about 8" long capped on both ends tapped for fittings and filled with cotton. It was mounted on end and had a petcock tapped into the bottom to drain it. I remember asking him what it was for. Pipe Bomb:eek:

For higher volume air a 12" long piece of 4" pvc capped and filled with an inexpensive replaceable absorbent. Overthinking ?
Getting off topic

Thanks to everyone for the links too places to get my clutch relined. That's what I'll do
 
Im pretty sure the lift oil and the tranny oil are separate...certainly are on mine ......tranny dipstick/filler is under the floor ,hydraulic tank filler beside the valves.......Incidentally ,all my old machines run on waste compressor oil ....as did all the cranes ,forklifts ,hyd machines at the sandblasters.......never caused a problem in millions of machine hours,and its Free!......A friend of the bosses used to come and get drums of used compressor oil to run his old Cat D6B.....as fuel!....But the old Cats were set up to run on crude if necessary.
 
john.k said:
Im pretty sure the lift oil and the tranny oil are separate...certainly are on mine ......tranny dipstick/filler is under the floor ,hydraulic tank filler beside the valves.......Incidentally ,all my old machines run on waste compressor oil ....as did all the cranes ,forklifts ,hyd machines at the sandblasters.......never caused a problem in millions of machine hours,and its Free!......A friend of the bosses used to come and get drums of used compressor oil to run his old Cat D6B.....as fuel!....But the old Cats were set up to run on crude if necessary.
Click to expand...

They are seperate . The power steering I think shares hydraulic tank with the lift. I would have to follow the hose that pumps oil into the bellhousing too keep the clutch wet.
That access plate on the bellhousing that has the oil line connected gave me an oil bath. i left it laying there upside down and used the starter too jog over the engine to break the stuck clutch loose. Soaked my shirt:willy_nilly:

I use oil my neighbor gives me in my skid steer chain boxes and have used it in old trucks that burned or leaked oil. often the next stop was the salvage yard..
Used oil settles out after sitting in a barrel for a while. That bottom inch of the barrel has any of the junk in it. I may start doing that. Flushing that milky oil oit would be a good to use second hand oil. Those old hydraulic systems are tough.
I seldom run my Hyster over 30 minutes at a go and that never really gets things warmed up good.
 
What is the oil source for the clutch, my big Hyster uses the hydraulic tank. The steering on my Challenger 70 same lift with single tires has a dedicated P/S pump but draws from the main hydraulic tank as well. I can't see how water could get in the steering via the steering gear, way more likely the filler cap on the tank or a rust hole you cant see? The lift cylinder shouldn't have much air in it when lowering, none of the cylinders have air on the ends.
 
Steve in SoCal said:
What is the oil source for the clutch, my big Hyster uses the hydraulic tank. The steering on my Challenger 70 same lift with single tires has a dedicated P/S pump but draws from the main hydraulic tank as well. I can't see how water could get in the steering via the steering gear, way more likely the filler cap on the tank or a rust hole you cant see? The lift cylinder shouldn't have much air in it when lowering, none of the cylinders have air on the ends.
Click to expand...

When John k spoke of water running into the steering box I first thought t of it getting into the hydraulics but then realized he was talking about the mechanical part. I cleared that up in the next post. The valve body in the steering box is sealed but the worm gear and bearings would get damaged..
My lift cylinder isnt getting air in it. I was saying that when the lift cylinder raises air is dawn into the hydraulic tank because of the large cyl drawing in the fluid. When the cylinder drops the fluid returns.
All that air exchange allows humidity into the tank through the vent cap contaminating the oil. It accumulates over time

In southern Cal you have low humidity. I'm along the Mississippi River bottoms. Seven miles away in the hills. Humidity is often 95%. Humid air inside an oil tank condenses and drips into the oil.
I never really get the oil in my hydraulics hot . That doesnt help.
I have a skid steer and have the same issue with the hydraulic oil in it.

Going outside in Jul and Aug with 95 f temp and 90% humidity is like a steam room

I could have water getting in another way but its usually either tarped or inside. Its dead in its tracks outside right now. It has been rained on.
 
I got it regarding the humidity, I am in Hutchinson, Ks not as bad as next to the big river. As for a water separator/filter the small inline type are OK, get one you can disassemble to recharge the media. The other thing to consider, a drain on the tank. The hydraulic tank has a drain plug, replace that plug with a quick drain and sump the tank every once in a while.

I just went through my Challenger 70, new engine, clutch, brakes, all new hoses, propane conversion. These things are built far better than the newer forklifts. From my personal perspective these are about the perfect size. I have two smaller forklifts and one bigger this is goldilocks size IMHO.
 
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