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Hyster drive hubs stuck

mine is a bit different than yours, but on mine there is a tapered sleeve around each of the studs. You need to rap on the stud with a mallet to pop the sleeve loose.
 
I can't really tell from the pictures, do the studs have tapered washers around them? The typical solution is a large sledge on the end of the axle. It will bounce the axle enough to move the tapered washers out enough to be able to remove them.
 
It is very common to see the use of tapered washers on the studs.
The constant forward and reversing puts a lot of stress on the studs.

Give the studs a good spray with penetrant.
Smack the center of the axle until things come loose.
Sometimes they will pop off, sometime you fight with them one at a time.

I use some OTC 7077 pliers to spread and pull the little buggers off.
 
Once upon a time I had this problem with an iH truck rear axle. Wedged the axle shaft out with great difficulty, mm by mm. Finally the spline came out of the diff side gear and the truck rolled over my leg. It was an interesting, interminable tenth of a second waitng for the sound of my femur breaking, but fortunately that was not God's plan for me that day! Damned thing was on slope and not properly chocked, my brain-dead mistake. Hopefullly not your problem

More likely is that the little collets round the studs are stuck. The trick I was taught is to give the center of the axle flange a VERY good whack (or three) with a sledge-hammer...it usually bounces right out. You may want to hang a short piece of round stock on a wire from the studs as a "punch",to reduce your chances of destroying a stud with a foul blow.
 
I have used a full 20 lb sledge, several very good hits, and when that refused to work (I was just following orders) we thought about the 90 lb jackhammer suspended horizontally on the jib crane.

The boss drilled the cones out instead.
 
Waaal,dont work on Rockwell/Timken truck axles 5 days a week.......simple way of breaking the cones loose is a few solid hits in the centre of the axle with a sledge......you must be accurate,and not hit the studs......around four or five blows and all the cones have bounced out and can be easily removed by inserting a small screwdriver into the split.......These cones stop the axle from flogging loose on the small studs.......later Rockwells dispensed with the cones ,and used much bigger studs...up to 3/4"
 
You probably need someone to show you.....the axle flange has to bounce between the hub and the hammer.....there is a trick to it,and it works no matter how stuck things are......worst I ever struck were the 12 stud Rockewell 2 speed axles fitted to Dodges in the 60s..........there is another trick with forks too,bolt the axle back on ,shaft outward,and use the shaft as a big lever to get the hub and drum off the brake shoes......older Hysters like yours have an oil seal mid hub,outer bearing is oil,inner bearing is grease.
 
John,

I noticed that the inner bearing had grease, the seal was behind the inner.

The reason I pulled this down, the parking brake cable is stuck. This forklift is getting a major refresh, the brake system included. It has sat idle with a bad clutch for several years. The wheel cylinder is getting replaced, it is wet around a boot. This side the cable is fully extended and it wont pull at all.
 
Once upon a time I had this problem with an iH truck rear axle. Wedged the axle shaft out with great difficulty, mm by mm. Finally the spline came out of the diff side gear and the truck rolled over my leg. It was an interesting, interminable tenth of a second waitng for the sound of my femur breaking, but fortunately that was not God's plan for me that day! Damned thing was on slope and not properly chocked, my brain-dead mistake. Hopefullly not your problem

More likely is that the little collets round the studs are stuck. The trick I was taught is to give the center of the axle flange a VERY good whack (or three) with a sledge-hammer...it usually bounces right out. You may want to hang a short piece of round stock on a wire from the studs as a "punch",to reduce your chances of destroying a stud with a foul blow.

Unrelated to the thread but it reminds me of the story our press brake service guy told us.

Apparently someone wanted to swap hydraulic valves left to right to isolate an issue and didn't block the ram. Suddenly dropping one side of a several ton chunk of metal caused some damage.
 








 
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