Hyster drive hubs stuck
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodland Hills, Ca. and some times Hutchinson, Ks.
    Posts
    2,409
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    19
    Likes (Received)
    622

    Default Hyster drive hubs stuck

    I am trying to get the brake drum off to inspect and the axle is stuck, seems like someone glued it in? I tried using a chisel around the flange with no luck, any ideas?

    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20210404_153157.jpg   20210404_153208.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    21,369
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Is it like a truck axle ? It looks like it is.

    There might be cones around the studs, under the nuts, they get rusted in place.
    truck axle stud cone removal at DuckDuckGo

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Temecula, Ca
    Posts
    3,311
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1401
    Likes (Received)
    4326

    Default

    mine is a bit different than yours, but on mine there is a tapered sleeve around each of the studs. You need to rap on the stud with a mallet to pop the sleeve loose.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    8,518
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    587
    Likes (Received)
    4269

    Default

    I can't really tell from the pictures, do the studs have tapered washers around them? The typical solution is a large sledge on the end of the axle. It will bounce the axle enough to move the tapered washers out enough to be able to remove them.

  5. Likes Garwood, JohnEvans, lars66 liked this post
  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    N. Calif.
    Posts
    150
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    10
    Likes (Received)
    67

    Default

    It is very common to see the use of tapered washers on the studs.
    The constant forward and reversing puts a lot of stress on the studs.

    Give the studs a good spray with penetrant.
    Smack the center of the axle until things come loose.
    Sometimes they will pop off, sometime you fight with them one at a time.

    I use some OTC 7077 pliers to spread and pull the little buggers off.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    On Elk Mountain, West Virginia, USA
    Posts
    2,189
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1029
    Likes (Received)
    768

    Default

    Once upon a time I had this problem with an iH truck rear axle. Wedged the axle shaft out with great difficulty, mm by mm. Finally the spline came out of the diff side gear and the truck rolled over my leg. It was an interesting, interminable tenth of a second waitng for the sound of my femur breaking, but fortunately that was not God's plan for me that day! Damned thing was on slope and not properly chocked, my brain-dead mistake. Hopefullly not your problem

    More likely is that the little collets round the studs are stuck. The trick I was taught is to give the center of the axle flange a VERY good whack (or three) with a sledge-hammer...it usually bounces right out. You may want to hang a short piece of round stock on a wire from the studs as a "punch",to reduce your chances of destroying a stud with a foul blow.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Country
    CANADA
    State/Province
    Ontario
    Posts
    540
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    829
    Likes (Received)
    127

    Default

    not stuck, just hit it harder, its rust. there are cone washers that are tight to the studs. get out a BFH or your wifes or your purse and beat it to hell

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    21,369
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have used a full 20 lb sledge, several very good hits, and when that refused to work (I was just following orders) we thought about the 90 lb jackhammer suspended horizontally on the jib crane.

    The boss drilled the cones out instead.

  10. Likes JohnEvans liked this post
  11. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodland Hills, Ca. and some times Hutchinson, Ks.
    Posts
    2,409
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    19
    Likes (Received)
    622

    Default

    Thank You Gents,

    I was doubting my hammer had what it took, in the end just relentless beating with a 5 pounder did get it to finally submit!!!

    Steve

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    4,231
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    20
    Likes (Received)
    1516

    Default

    Waaal,dont work on Rockwell/Timken truck axles 5 days a week.......simple way of breaking the cones loose is a few solid hits in the centre of the axle with a sledge......you must be accurate,and not hit the studs......around four or five blows and all the cones have bounced out and can be easily removed by inserting a small screwdriver into the split.......These cones stop the axle from flogging loose on the small studs.......later Rockwells dispensed with the cones ,and used much bigger studs...up to 3/4"

  13. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    4,231
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    20
    Likes (Received)
    1516

    Default

    You probably need someone to show you.....the axle flange has to bounce between the hub and the hammer.....there is a trick to it,and it works no matter how stuck things are......worst I ever struck were the 12 stud Rockewell 2 speed axles fitted to Dodges in the 60s..........there is another trick with forks too,bolt the axle back on ,shaft outward,and use the shaft as a big lever to get the hub and drum off the brake shoes......older Hysters like yours have an oil seal mid hub,outer bearing is oil,inner bearing is grease.

  14. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodland Hills, Ca. and some times Hutchinson, Ks.
    Posts
    2,409
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    19
    Likes (Received)
    622

    Default

    John,

    I noticed that the inner bearing had grease, the seal was behind the inner.

    The reason I pulled this down, the parking brake cable is stuck. This forklift is getting a major refresh, the brake system included. It has sat idle with a bad clutch for several years. The wheel cylinder is getting replaced, it is wet around a boot. This side the cable is fully extended and it wont pull at all.

  15. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    1,267
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    396
    Likes (Received)
    435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by magneticanomaly View Post
    Once upon a time I had this problem with an iH truck rear axle. Wedged the axle shaft out with great difficulty, mm by mm. Finally the spline came out of the diff side gear and the truck rolled over my leg. It was an interesting, interminable tenth of a second waitng for the sound of my femur breaking, but fortunately that was not God's plan for me that day! Damned thing was on slope and not properly chocked, my brain-dead mistake. Hopefullly not your problem

    More likely is that the little collets round the studs are stuck. The trick I was taught is to give the center of the axle flange a VERY good whack (or three) with a sledge-hammer...it usually bounces right out. You may want to hang a short piece of round stock on a wire from the studs as a "punch",to reduce your chances of destroying a stud with a foul blow.
    Unrelated to the thread but it reminds me of the story our press brake service guy told us.

    Apparently someone wanted to swap hydraulic valves left to right to isolate an issue and didn't block the ram. Suddenly dropping one side of a several ton chunk of metal caused some damage.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •