Hyster Hydraulic Cutch Question

I recently put a clutch in my H80 challenger
Well I am helping a widow with some of her husbands collection. She has a big hyster with the same transmission as mine only her lift has a hydraulic clutch linkage

In this photo is the double hydraulic linkage cylinders. Its nasty greasy but works.
The clutch was stuck. I was able to loosen the pressure olate bolts and pry the clutch plate off of the pressure plate getting it unstuck. Without disassembly
Its back together and working.
I wrestled a split rim wheel off yesterday to replace a tube. I wrapped chains around the tire while removing the killer locking ring.

I have two issues.
When you shut off the engine the clutch engages because the clutch linkage cylinder looses pressure. That's ok BUT.

I like to put a wood block in place too hold the clutch open while parked to prevent the clutch from sticking.. The hydraulic clutch prevents doing that. It will sit for weeks or months between use.

I took a 1/4 inch cable and attached it to the clutch lever at the bellhousing and had my helper push the clutch peddle and I wrapped the cable around the r.o.p post. Then shut the engine off and the cable held the clutch linkage open.

I'm going to use the cable and a small pully to bring the cable up to the front floorboard and use a lever and a latch mounted behind my feet to lock the clutch open before shutting off the engine and loosing clutch hyd. pressure.

Not a lot of work but holding the clutch open us a must. They stick while sitting. Wet clutch.
Is there an easier way ?

Second question. I haven't used it yet. Still tuning things up. Fixing flats

If your using this fork lift and the engine dies does fhe lift surge forward if its in gear as the clutch looses hyd. pressure ? Ill find out soon but dont know yet. Its surrounded by junk that has to be moved. I could just bulldoze my way out of there

The engine is worn out. Does not leak hydraulics that Ive found yet.
I rebuilt the carb. and tuned it up.

The old Yale that i use out there is also worn out. I put new seals in the top of its lift cylinder. Couldn't match the seal so I put in two narrower seals. Its working.

If osha could only see this stuff. I have worked around old machinery all my life. Sometimes you have to hold your mouth just right and juggle the gas peddle and clutch with your toe on the brake peddle and heel on the gas

I couldn't read the model number on the worn tag. Didn't have my cheater glasses.
Thanks Mike

Mike I also have basically the same forklift. I think you went to a lot of work for no reason.

Here is what I do with mine when it is first started. Just takes a little longer when it is cold out.

Put the gear selector in neutral and start the engine. Let the engine warm up for a few minutes, then depress the clutch pedal a few times, this helps shear the oil off the clutch.
Now try to engage the gear selector with the clutch pedal down, if it grinds and hard to engage just rev. the engine up and depress the clutch a few more times. This usually works for me.

I think the major thing to do is get the oil warmed up and depressing the clutch a few times helps shear the oil.
I don't know what viscosity oil you are running but thinner is better. Such as 5w20 or 10w30.

When I first got this lift it sat outside for about 5 yrs.
Cleaned the points put the propane tank on and fired it up.
It took quite awhile to get the clutch unstuck but not near as long as undoing the pressure plate bolts.

D KIRBY said:

Mike I also have basically the same forklift. I think you went to a lot of work for no reason.

Here is what I do with mine when it is first started. Just takes a little longer when it is cold out.

Put the gear selector in neutral and start the engine. Let the engine warm up for a few minutes, then depress the clutch pedal a few times, this helps shear the oil off the clutch.
Now try to engage the gear selector with the clutch pedal down, if it grinds and hard to engage just rev. the engine up and depress the clutch a few more times. This usually works for me.

I think the major thing to do is get the oil warmed up and depressing the clutch a few times helps shear the oil.
I don't know what viscosity oil you are running but thinner is better. Such as 5w20 or 10w30.

When I first got this lift it sat outside for about 5 yrs.
Cleaned the points put the propane tank on and fired it up.
It took quite awhile to get the clutch unstuck but not near as long as undoing the pressure plate bolts.

Click to expand...

Thanks kirby
I have decide not to try to hold the linkage open with the cable mechanism.
I will try your method if the clutch sticks again.
I don't like the way the hydraulic clutch linkage collapse's when it dies or shut off. Its ok as long as the engine rotation stops before the linkage looses pressure. Otherwise it could surge forward a little while loading something and it died.
I may be overthinking the issue. Ill test that when all the junk is moved away.
First thing making the carb. and fuel dependable.

It's running better now. Its a smoker.
Its been parked inside for 20 years unused.
The accelerator pump/plunger in the carb was dry and stuck. Some oil soak for a day and its good. I think its the old leather. It doesn't need a carb. kit.
Trying to make it dependable and safe as possible. It really needs engine rebuild .