Longer Chain for a Lever Chain Hoist

newtonsapple said:

I preparing to improve my setup for moving equipment in and out of my home basement through by bulkhead. This is a standard Bilco with precast stairs setup. I've been some lowering down of equipment <500lbs using a set of wooden rails a sled pallet and ropes. This has worked very well, but I now have a 1300lbs item to move that is more than I am comfortable with my rope setup. I have a couple large trees to use as anchors.

I was originally thinking of a cable electric hoist. However for a less expensive and easier to move around setup, I could do a lever chain hoist. I've never touched one tough. I would need to swap out the chain on most for enough working length.

Frankly, I would probably go for this Horror Frieght one:
Lever Chain Hoist - 1-1/2 Ton

Would I run into any issues swapping the chain with a 20ft 5/16" grade 80? Am I going to hate moving things raising or lowering 15ft of chain?

Click to expand...

feralghoul88 said:

I work in the crane and hoist industry, so I probably dont know what im talking about and you shouldnt take my advice. That being said, I really like lever hoists, i find them more manageable and versatile than a standard chain fall hoist, and it is entirely doable to replace a load chain for a longer one, just be sure you get a proper chain that is made for lifting. Lever hoist are designed to be used in any position, pulling or lifting/lowering and they can be used in places that chain falls are not easily used, that being said, some applications like going from one level to another, especially if working alone a chain fall with a long enough pull chain would likely prove more useful for that application. The problem with a lever hoist is that it either has to be worked from the load or the fixed end side giving you less option for working it if its in a transitional point of the lift. Also, working a chain fall is less tiring/aggravating for long distances than cranking the lever, especially if you have any tendonitis like me.

Just a note, true lifting chain is specifically rated for lifting/lowering, not saying you cant get away with using any old chain that should be rated for the loads your going to pick up with the frequency you plan on using it, but you should be aware so you can make an informed decision.

Click to expand...

newtonsapple said:

Thanks to everyone for the input. Despite the lowering/raising aspect, this is more like a horizontal setup because I will be standing outside on the ground operating the hoist. It's really like a 45deg move. I am not sure a regular chain fall hoist would work in this setup.

Lowering with a lever chain hoist looks a little more straight forward than a come along.

The replacement chain I would get would be 5/16 grade 80 for lifting. I need about 15ft of travel from top to bottom. The hoist will be anchored back to the trees using a 40' 7/16" premade wire rope sling.

I think I will want to elevate the attachment point of the hoist to put it more inline with the slope of the stairs. While the bulkhead stairs should be sturdy, I don't like putting additional load prying them from the house. It will also prevent the chain from rubbing against the edge of the bulkhead. I am considering using my 2 ton engine hoist to elevate this point. In the basement I will use a heavy duty ratchet strap connected to a concrete anchor to pull the load down until weight is on the lowering setup. There is a sketchy point when the load teeters over onto the slope.

What does everyone think about this approach?

Click to expand...

digger doug said:

I think you should buy a pick up truck, chain the thing to the back bumper (no trees involved), and put the truck in "drive".....

Click to expand...

newtonsapple said:

Watched the neighbors do this while I was young. It was a piano down the bulkhead and a rambler station wagon. Went pretty much how you would expect...they made QUICK work of the job and the piano was all of a sudden in the basement. I recall going down there to play and there were some extra 2x4 installed to hold it up.

Click to expand...

Blazemaster said:

Also I would take a wild guess that the chain on that harbor freight lever hoist is some weird metric size.

Click to expand...

52 Ford said:

Depends on what set of calipers you measure it with. Could be some weird SAE size, too. [emoji16]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

newtonsapple said:

I said in the first post that it the Harbor Freight 1.5 ton lever hoist takes 5/16ths chain. My post was initially just to understand that hoists don't take some magic chain other than appropriately rated for lifting. Sometimes there are weird conventions, like hoists use a special spec of chain with better weld dimension control. It doesn't seem like that is the case. Chain isn't exactly high dimensionally precision stuff. The magic is in weld quality, steel, and heat treat.

It does seem like I should be able to track down a 2nd hand name brand model with a 15ft chain for about what a HF and replacement chain costs.

Only other thing to work out is how to arrange the appropriate angle of approach and the teeter totter point. Lifting the support line to about 4ft at 4ft away from the start of the bulkhead should be good for the angle. Still thinking of using the engine lift for that. Putting the sliding skid on some lumber that can be jacked up to better match the stair angle would manage the teeter totter issue.

Click to expand...

true temper said:

You are way over thinking this. Find a buddy with a Jeep or truck with a winch, snatch block the line to the tree and get it done.
If no winch to be found get some good rope and snatch block off of tree and pull with pickup.

Click to expand...

52 Ford said:

Boat winch. I keep one in my truck. SUPER versatile


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

dgfoster said:

I have several boat winches used for lifting fairly light loads and I do very much like the speed and versatility of the winches. One caveat is that little toggle that you snap up to allow UNwinding the winch. I have fixed mine so that they cannot be over-centered into the release/unwind position. I fix them so they have to be held open and if you let go the lever moves to the locked position. I think this is an important safety feature. If that winch handle starts to freewheel as the load descends, I can guarantee you you will not be putting your hand in its arc to grab it. Even if you were foolish enough to try, you'd never be able to stop the out of control winch and you'd likely seriously injure ytour hand.

A worm gear winch is a different matter as it will not freewheel and is still reasonably fast. I have two of those on two different and seriously heavy items that I need to lift. I drive them with drill motors. Works well. Using nylon strap as opposed to cable is much nicer to handle but not as good for a snatch-block situation.

Denis

Click to expand...