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  1. #21
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    Have you checked the fuel lock solenoid or for test just bypass the valve go from the bottle to the vaporizer.

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    I have run out of ideas on the zenith carb. I also got a impcp ca100m-1 with the lift. Can I just drop that in place and just use the zenith vaporizer that is on it?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59Clipper View Post
    I have run out of ideas on the zenith carb. I also got a impcp ca100m-1 with the lift. Can I just drop that in place and just use the zenith vaporizer that is on it?
    Yes, the Impco Ca100 is a propane mixer/throttle body. The vaporizer turns liquid propane into gas, the mixer/carb is the throttle control. Does the distributor still have points? Have you set the dwell? I have a 40 pound propane bottle with a hose and part of an old weed burner I can start any spark ignition engines to test.

    You can get a hose that can feed the mixer from a BBQ or RV bottle maybe start from the mixer backwards to eliminate guessing.

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    Fixing old forks,I have noted that often the distributor is very worn on the shaft,and timing can vary widely,which is often a cause of no start,and if it runs ,no power......cure is a replacement electronic dizzy ....dont waste money with the car dizzy repairers,who charge hundreds,and stick a bit of epoxy in the bearings.....it wears out in a couple of weeks.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    Have you checked the fuel lock solenoid or for test just bypass the valve go from the bottle to the vaporizer.
    Yes, the carb is getting fuel.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    Yes, the Impco Ca100 is a propane mixer/throttle body. The vaporizer turns liquid propane into gas, the mixer/carb is the throttle control. Does the distributor still have points? Have you set the dwell? I have a 40 pound propane bottle with a hose and part of an old weed burner I can start any spark ignition engines to test.

    You can get a hose that can feed the mixer from a BBQ or RV bottle maybe start from the mixer backwards to eliminate guessing.
    It still has points. I checked them, but I will do it again and I will also replace the plugs before I try the impco.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 59Clipper View Post
    It still has points. I checked them, but I will do it again and I will also replace the plugs before I try the impco.
    Is just getting the pertronix module workable or do you have to buy the replacement distributor. I haven't taken the distributor out yet to see if it is worn.

  8. #28
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    If the dist. is not worn badly just get the pertronix. Be sure that your coil will work with it, some coils will not. Different resistance coils will fry the module....

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    If the dist. is not worn badly just get the pertronix. Be sure that your coil will work with it, some coils will not. Different resistance coils will fry the module....
    Anybody have a part number?

  10. #30
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    As far as wheel cylinder kits... I just got through repairing the brakes on an old early '50's Hough Payloader.

    No idea how long it sat, but the brake lines were severed and no fluid left in either wheel cylinder.

    I disassembled each one. They weren't rusted bad at all. I just honed them out a little and went over to the NAPA auto parts place and asked if they still had the rubber wheel cylinder cups for sale.

    Yep.

    So, 10 minutes later I'm walking out with four 1½" diameter rubber cups. Put it all back together and it works~ no leaks.

    So, don't order a kit, show the parts guys what you're needing and see if you can buy them individually like I did.

    By the way, I've got a Clark Clipper that is a twin to the one Steve in SoCal has.

    The distributor in mine is loose as a goose in it's bore. If you grasp it by hand, you can wiggle it around!
    The tires are worn slick, no tread at all.

    I just got through snooping on the web and found that I can actually buy replacement press-on solid rubber wheels.
    The day after that I pulled up at an intersection next to a truck pulling a trailer with what I guessed was a forklift tire press.
    I got the driver to roll down the window and asked him if that's what it was... "Yes". How much to press off and replace a set of 4 of these wheels on this little unit.

    "You'll have to call the company and ask... they charge by the inch."

    I've had to pull the mast cylinder off my lift. It was leaking past the piston seal and when you'd reach the end of the upstroke, it would ooze past the rod wiper and spray out all over the place.

    I got ahold of a knowledgeable salesman at "Baum Iron" in Omaha and he asked me for some measurements and on what machine it was on... a few days later I had a seal in my hand and repaired my mast....Baum Iron is good people.

    The little thing sure comes in handy. Here's a pic of me using it to place a big sheet of steel out front of the shop... I've got a steel driveway.

    777..jpg

    777.jpg

    It had no connection betwixt carb and air filter (oil bath). The previous owner made one out of rubber radiator hose and exhaust tubing bent to fit. You can see the rubber hose in the second of the following pictures.

    The gas tank was bad. He left it in place and made an external tank out of an old fire extinguisher.


    777..jpg

    777.jpg


    The "tank" hangs on the rollover cage upright over the counterweight.

    The original 6 volt battery is still setting down in there under the radiator... too much trouble to get out. I just put a regular automotive 12v. battery in it and it's laying in the counterweight on the outside of the radiator... held in place with a bungee cord.

    It's got a Chrysler alternator with one of their electronic voltage regulators.

    There's really no good way to take a good picture down in the engine compartment.

    It has never had side doors that I know of.

  11. #31
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    The p.o. called me the other night and he found the sides for it. So I have going for me. I also discovered it was originally red.

  12. #32
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    You gotta show us what the elusive side covers look like. How long does the engine run when you start it? It really sounds like the fuel lock is closing. The coil is not expensive 10-15 bucks maybe change it on principal. The other thing, IF it has a condenser in the distributor change that.

    Steve

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    Yes, the car is getting fuel. It has that, just not wired incorrectly right now. In fact, I have a lot of work to do on the wiring.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Fixing old forks,I have noted that often the distributor is very worn on the shaft,and timing can vary widely,which is often a cause of no start,and if it runs ,no power......cure is a replacement electronic dizzy ....dont waste money with the car dizzy repairers,who charge hundreds,and stick a bit of epoxy in the bearings.....it wears out in a couple of weeks.
    Dwell gets to be all over the place, too, but it's simple enough for a machinist to rebush a distributor.

  15. #35
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    OK, I was going to do it anyway, so I ordered the pertronix conversion kit. FYI the number for it is 1142N6 for the 6v negative one. I also ordered a new Coil, cap, dust cap, rotor and wires.

    Cap 811735 Delco no.
    Rotor 820445 Delco no.
    Dust Cap: ABC186 Steiner no.

    I also ordered some Autolite 386 plugs.

    So while I wait, I am going to start working on the wires.

  16. #36
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    For posterity, the carb kit for the Zenith/Bendix 12404A is CK954 from carbkitsource.com.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    You gotta show us what the elusive side covers look like. How long does the engine run when you start it? It really sounds like the fuel lock is closing. The coil is not expensive 10-15 bucks maybe change it on principal. The other thing, IF it has a condenser in the distributor change that.

    Steve
    20210610_120559.jpg

    Steve, here's your photographic evidence that the elusive side panels do exist.

    The engine when started keeps running until I shut it off. I just can't start it again until it cools down and I fiddle with the carb again.

    The cap and rotor had some grooves in them and the plugs were worn, so after next Tuesday, we will see if it was more of an ignition problem or if there is something else.

    In the meantime, I dropped the starter. It is a Delco-Remy 1107735. As you can see from the picture, I need to replace the Bindix/Starter gear.

    20210610_120442.jpg

  18. #38
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    Actually ,thats pretty good for an old Bendix gear......its the flywheel that is often the problem.......well not the flywheel,but the ring gear....a four generally stops in one of two spots on the ring gear,teeth get chewed at these locations....Bendix spins wildly before engaging worn teeth,...the rest you know.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Actually ,thats pretty good for an old Bendix gear......its the flywheel that is often the problem.......well not the flywheel,but the ring gear....a four generally stops in one of two spots on the ring gear,teeth get chewed at these locations....Bendix spins wildly before engaging worn teeth,...the rest you know.
    It's more of a problem with the bendix not engaging. I am going to keep my eyes closed on the ring gear for now. I don't really don't want to split it apart to replace it right now.

  20. #40
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    I have the same issues with my old Clark. It will run for a couple of weeks with the choke on but eventually, you’ll only be able to idle around. If you hit the throttle, it will die and won’t start until it cools off. I’m at the point of replacing everything from the propane tank to the carb or converting it to gas.

    Maybe this has already been mentioned but check your antifreeze, the regulator could be freezing up on you because it’s low.


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