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Modification to Bluebird Engine Hoist to Lift Bridgeport Mill

mrplasma

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 25, 2020
I have a Bluebird 1,200 lb hoist with a very long boom and only one hook position. The legs of the hoist are straight and 37" apart on the inside.
The only problem with lifting my incoming 2,000 lb Bridgeport mill off the pallet is the lifting capacity. The frame and boom are sufficiently sturdy (American made - 1/4" wall).

I made some calculations based on measurements of other hoists with multiple hook locations. The amount of increase in lifting capacity from a relatively small decrease in boom length is remarkable.

If I move my hook location only 15" inward, the lifting capacity is theoretically tripled. Although it has a 3 ton jack, it should be enough for 2,000 lbs. I would through bolt a 5/8" industrial lifting eye to accommodate the hook. I should still have enough height given the 99" maximum hook height with the stock configuration.

Is there anything I'm overlooking?

bluebird lift points sm.jpg engine hoist lift points.jpg
 
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You are right as far as bending strength of the boom is concerned. The components of the base will bear higher loads than designed for and may potentially fail. When you increase the hook load you need to evaluate all the other components of the hoist.
 
I have a Bluebird 1,200 lb hoist with a very long boom and only one hook position. The legs of the hoist are straight and 37" apart on the inside.
The only problem with lifting my incoming 2,000 lb Bridgeport mill off the pallet is the lifting capacity. The frame and boom are sufficiently sturdy (American made - 1/4" wall).

I made some calculations based on measurements of other hoists with multiple hook locations. The amount of increase in lifting capacity from a relatively small decrease in boom length is remarkable.

If I move my hook location only 15" inward, the lifting capacity is theoretically tripled. Although it has a 3 ton jack, it should be enough for 2,000 lbs. I would through bolt a 5/8" industrial lifting eye to accommodate the hook. I should still have enough height given the 99" maximum hook height with the stock configuration.

Is there anything I'm overlooking?

View attachment 318688 View attachment 318780

I've been using K-D (Knock-Down) bluebirds longer than mamy mebers have been alive. The old company or curretn one, they "knew theri s**t" and the Knck Down plsuWIDe elgs not skilly have always been goldedn.

"They knew their s**t" when they published a rating, too.

Yes, there is a bigger safety margin that most any other similar hoist.

And I HAVE "pushed it". Just not by all that much.

1805 Avoir of a 12" Sheldon shaper, of the stock hook location of a 1500 lb rated Bluebird to be specific.

No, it should NOT be used to lift a BirdPort mill. The boom will stand it.

The shaper went over SIDEWAYS, wide-stance or not!

"PBS" there was a soft landing, no damage, no injury, fast and easy recovery.

Use jacks and skates UNDER the BirdPort. Or lifting gear that preserves its design saety marin.

Rented FL is my usual go-to.

Not as if I need one every day.

Or even every SEVERAL YEARS.

So the average is cheaper with lesser griefer.
 
The below is a VERY simplified calculation and in no way is indicative of proper analysis of this lifting apparatus.

1200lbf @ 60" = 72,000in-lb.

72,000in-lb/44.5in = ~1600lb.

I don't know where or how you got 3600lb, but I sure as shit wouldn't attempt it. Steel doesn't creak and bend, it fails spectacularly, and this seems like a good way to view it up close if you catch my drift.
 
This is post #37, I like it but read the whole thing in the link

Milacron
I haven't read all the responses but depending on pallet design I'll bet I could do this with no lifts or tools at all if I had to...pile of wood blocks and perhaps one 2 foot wood stud only. Basically involves using the mill knee as lift mechanism, tilting of machine base on blocks and gradual buildup of blocks in appropriate places. Tedious and requires intense concentration to be safe, but can be done, as I've done it. I'm talking 2,200 lb Bridgeport size mill too.


https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...st scoot it over off,table as far as possible.
 
Sounds very stupid to me.

Couple prybars will have it on the ground in no time.

Or get fancy and cut some angle iron to surround the base, attch 4 pins to the angle for harbor freight pneumatic tires.

deflate tires, slide onto pins, inflate tires, roll wherever.

One of my mills came on a cart like that. pretty crafty. I sold the cart for more than I paid for the mill. Must not be the only one who appreciated it.
 
Now that I'm looking at the mill and my engine hoist side by side, there's no way I'm going to try to lift it with that hoist. I guess I will get inventive with a toe jack, some blocks, and a reciprocal saw.

Mill & Hoist.jpg
 
.. a reciprocal saw.

Recip? My biggest is Milwaukee's biggest corded. But I would rate that approach a grievous waste of blades.

It's only a BirdPort.

Just throw a chain around it, let the scrappers drag it out in one piece, and go find yourself a milling machine so you don't waste your time nor waste space, either.

How's that as to leveraging for improved economy?

:D
 
You do realize that with 4 nuts these machines come apart and moving the two pieces is easier.

^ This. Just take the turret/head off and it is much easier and safer to handle with the lower weight and lower center of gravity. Also keep in mind you sometimes don't need to really lift the machine at all, you may be able to slide it off the palette onto cribbing setup to be an inch or so lower, then move the palette, setup more cribbing another inch lower, slide, etc. until in the floor. I've done this in a tight space with no room for a lift and it worked very well.
 
^ This. Just take the turret/head off and it is much easier and safer to handle with the lower weight and lower center of gravity. Also keep in mind you sometimes don't need to really lift the machine at all, you may be able to slide it off the palette onto cribbing setup to be an inch or so lower, then move the palette, setup more cribbing another inch lower, slide, etc. until in the floor. I've done this in a tight space with no room for a lift and it worked very well.

I try to ALWAYS stay but mere inches off the deck, if-even INCHES.

BirdPort? Hostess twinkies.

Galvanized sheet steel from Big Box. Spritz of spray grease. Rope a timber to it as lever-arm?

One Old Fart moving slow. Slide alternate corner-walk the bugger.

No need to even toe-jack (got a pair of 'em) it for my skates ('bout a dozen).

No skates nor rollers to escape. No risk of tipping.

Nothing moves if you need to go for a s**t.

Works at a 5205 Avoir. Just needed a stouter timber as lever-arm.

I mean.. s**t slides.

GLACIERS don't have no wheels, do they?

:D
 
FYI. a Bridgeport breaks down into 200 pound pieces leaving a 600 pound base without knee.
That lift should be able to lift the head with ram and turret attached. table, knee and base probably around 1,000 pounds so within the lifts safety range. by removing four bolts.
Top of ram may have a threaded lifting hole of 1/2 or 5/8 thread. It is rated to lift the complete machine with a proper forged lifting eye.
Bill D.
 
Your Bridgeport’s head is tilted halfway down and it’s weight is probably bearing on the stop pin on the left side of the ram adapter. You need to lift it back up a hair and pull the safety pin out, then you can lower the head all the way down. You want it’s center of gravity at it’s lowest while you move it, unless you’re picking it with a fork under the ram, in which case the head must be upright.
 
Your Bridgeport’s head is tilted halfway down and it’s weight is probably bearing on the stop pin on the left side of the ram adapter. You need to lift it back up a hair and pull the safety pin out, then you can lower the head all the way down. You want it’s center of gravity at it’s lowest while you move it, unless you’re picking it with a fork under the ram, in which case the head must be upright.

The stop pin is at around 20* and this looks tilted more, although if the pin is in it will need to be pulled out to right the head. Good to take weight off the head with the other hand or a helper when righting it, the screw mechanism isn't quite good for that, and breaking that can be an exciting day. I like moving them with the head fully upside down and the knee all the way down just to keep things a tad less tippy.

+1 on the lifting eye and the car lift. Next best option would be to lower it where it sits. Slide onto a cribbing stack of 2x4s, lower in small steps. Don't try to go the full height of the pallet at once, I know someone who dumped a perfectly good Deckel doing that.

It should roll very nicely on black pipe once down, bar stock, etc. Might even be able to slide it a bit by hand if the floor is smooth enough, or by lever if one is handy.
 








 
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