Moving ideas

Hi folk

I'm looking for new ways to move Lathes and Mills around the home workshop.

I've been doing it for many years with Rollers, Skates, Bars and Tubes and usually called on a friend with that old line "Hey you haven't got five minutes to spare have you ... It's not HEAVY" etc etc. "

Now retired and not too many folk around at five minutes notice I'd appreciate your "Inventions" and designs to assist moving your "Pride & Joy" around the workplace.

Now I've got a Hardinge HLV-H (Non standard and very heavy 2000lbs) again and wondering about having brackets with rollers fitted to the corners or something similar? (For moving only)

I've had to access the back of the lathe several times over the last week and there's been a lot of sweat and stress(Guess age has something to with it!)

Comments, pictures and ideas sincerely welcomed

John

Over the years I have saved lots of bearings that were used but taken out of service for rebuilds. I will take length of round stock 1" ,1.5" cut off length needed, anywhere from 2' or more as needed. Pick out bearings just bigger then shaft I'd. Turn shoulders for bearings, drill and tap shaft for keepers. Now you have a low profile roller on each end that's stable and easy to adjust for turns. Pinch bars still required to load and unload.

When I was starting my business and bought a 1" steel 4x8 table I had to move without any lifts. I welded a trailer Jack to each corner and welded a wheel under the jack. Now I can remove them with a pin, or quickly pin then on and wheel the heavy 1500# table around.

Pallet truck
Put everything on wooden blocks that you can put a pallettruck under it
At the corners only is the best You can get under the machine at diferent angles then
if you find a normal pallet truck is too high you have super low pallettrucks only 1.5' high
Your floor needs to be in good condition for those though

Peter

I found me a used pair of rol-a-lifts. They are nice some times and a pain other times.... For a lathe the are hands down the easiest moving method I have ever seen. For a mill it is a little different story... They work but Im just not as comfortable moving mills with them.

Hi Hodge ... Thank you very much for your input - appreciated

Food for thought although I haven't got any spare bearings.

John

Hi Bondo ... Thanks for the message. Nice idea but I don't think welding a jack to each corner of the lathe

Regards

John

Hi Peter

Thanks for your input - Appreciated and quite like your idea, certainly makes sense.

Still wondering about fitting fabricated corners to the machine with casters that can be lowered.

All the best

John

Your welcome jerseyhohn, I was gonna offer a couple for the shipping then noticed you are across the pond. I've got a feeling it's easier to source your own. I have a Harding hc that I have moved around my shop using those. Good Luck, I know how it is when you need a hand when no one is around.

Hi Lazz - Thanks for your input, Not heard of Rol-a-lifts ... Note to self: Must google as I've never heard of them in England.

Regards

John

A pallet jack is the way to go. I don't like machines on wheels, even with levelers they seem flimsy. I have moved my Monarch 10EE and K&T 2H around extensively with my pallet jack. The jack moves well on smooth ground with up to 5K and can position like nothing else.

Steve

Hi Steve

Thanks very much for your input. Now I've seen a Pallet Jack I'm not sure it's the answer ...

Still hoping for ideas of fitments to the machine.

John

You can always build a frame for the trailer Jack legs that you can bolt in place then remove. This is how I have moved some very large stainless platforms around in food plants.

Another vote for pallet jack. I have a Northfield #4 table saw (18" blade, built like a brick .... house), put some leveling feet on it long enough to make room for pallet jack and it easily moves anywhere. Most pallet trucks are 5k+ lbs, super maneuverable and can be had for cheap on craigslist. Even any new bench or table I build now, I be sure and put cross bars just high enough off the floor so pallet truck can move it when needed. Have moved a quite heavy bench probably 15' wide loaded with crap and computers before by myself with almost no effort. Even moved my Shizuoka vertical mill with it and thats close to 5k lbs, that heavy can take 2 people to push but still easy to do.

Picture shows the set-up I use for shifting my Smart & Brown 1024 which is similar size to and a bit heavier than your Hardinge. My floors are smooth, standard UK house builders green waterproof chipboard under flooring on top of the concrete, so the little 1" nylon wheels on my low rise skates do fine. Skate frames are welded up from 1" square speedframe tubing with the bottoms cut out as needed for the wheels. I had old style Dexion UK made tube which is little thicker than the modern import stuff. As all the sidewalls are still there plenty of support for the long 1/4" diameter axles. Salvaged car jacks do the lifting bit plugging into thick wall heavy duty galvanised handrail tubes pushed through the handy dandy riggers holes in the casting. Front left is ex Lancia HPE as thats about the only one with a long tongue and slight back angle to clear the casting bulge. Inaccessible right rear is Rover SDI permanently fixed in place along with the tube it goes in. Nice and long, top is about 1" below chip tray so its easy to get at. Front Right is Ford Capri MK2. Another one with a long tongue. No room to turn handles on the right hand jacks so I welded a nut on the ends of the screw and use a socket and ratchet to lift. Windy ratchet doesn't have quite enough power to lift but spins it down fine. Next time I shall see how the cheap electric impact gun from Mr Lidle does. Dunno what the last jack used for left hand rear came from. Hauled out from rusticating in the "not got round to throwing away corner" of the garage.



Neatest home copiable "machinery" jacking and moving system I ever saw was that used on the big Newport air floated optical tables. The four air legs are joined by inverted U channel a couple of inches off the floor. Inside and close to the ends of the two long sides are hefty small wheel castors on pivoted plates. As I recall it castor wheels used are about 2 1/2" - 3" diameter and 2" or so wide. Support plates probably about 10 gauge and 3/8" diameter pivot pin sounds about right. A fine threaded screw, 7/16" or 1/2" diameter, is set vertically in the top of the channel. Wind the screw down to lift. Parts are positioned and sized so the screw is vertical and pushing down on the castor plate directly above the centre pivot when said plate is horizontal. Pivot arrangements are such that the plate is still inside the channel when horizontal so any side loads when moving go direct to the channel. Pivot is rattling good fit but it firms up nicely under load.

If I ever find a source of the castors I might make a version for the Bridgeport with channels down the sides and two plates across front and back to teach it manners. Threaded plugs in the bolt down holes for main fixing with narrow rails on bottoms to engage in the base between the feet sections for extra stability. Currently I use a bracket across the front bolt down holes and two separate brakes in the rear ones bolting onto modified scissors jacks to lift it for moving on a heavy duty castor dolly. It works but ...

Clive

another recomendation for a set of ROl-A-Lifts http://www.rolalift.com/ . I have two sets of them and they are used frequently. I have moved more then a dozen lathes with them . Unlike the previous poster I think they are great for moving mills with a little bit of creative use of blocking . I have likly moved two dozen bridgeport style mills with them. One of the most useful tips that I can give you is to make a set of hardwood wedges about 10" long and about 1 3/4" at the thick end. If I am raising a machine with a pry bar I can raise the machine a little and slip the wedge . Using a wedge allows you to lift a machine a little or a lot and always having the right size block in hand to put under the machine

Yup, pallet jack. Stateside, they're commonly available used for as low as $100. Sometimes, the odd ones (narrow and long, or narrow and short) are even cheaper, due to not being standard size. That makes them reasonable to use as a permanent base, with welded-on leveling screws at the corners. Would be good to get the same brand so repair parts cross over.

Chip

One thing you may not realize by just looking at pictures is, a pallet jack can lift a machine at the end of the forks and swing it into a tight spot. The distance between the fork rollers and the steering wheels make it very responsive and, able to get out of tight aisles.

Skates are fine for heavier stuff or things that don't fit on a pallet jack well but, for all around positioning within their envelope it is really hard to beat a pallet jack.

Steve

Hi again Bondo

Thank you again for your input. I did have a frame fabricated for a S&B lathe years ago and had adjustable casters fitted. Yes it worked but I'm sure I could do better along with contributions from you guys along the way.

John

Hi JP

Well the Pallet Jack (Or pallet truck as its known in Europe) seems to be popular.

The one point I feel limits it is that you've got to get the machinery (Lathe / Mill etc) high enough in the first instance to get the truck under it. Yes in your specific case you've pre-planned and added cross members ready for the lift but this is not possible on a lathe cabinet or mill base.

As Peter says above "put all your machines on blocks" .. yes an option if done on day one during delivery transfer ... then your option works.

Thank for your valued input - much appreciated.

John