NAMCO 2015 forklift won't start
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  1. #1
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    Default NAMCO 2015 forklift won't start

    I have a new-to-me Namco 2015 forklift. When they put it on the rollback, it would start. When it go here, it didn't anymore. I'm trying to troubleshoot it.

    It has the liquid withdrawal propane system. With both the tank valve and the second valve open, it will crank, but not catch.

    Spark:
    If I pull the leads off the spark plug and hold them near the engine block, I get a spark. This is true for both cylinders.

    Compression:
    Haven't tested it

    Fuel:
    Here's where it gets interesting.

    1) According to the wiring diagram, the wire to the lockoff valve comes from the oil pressure sensor. The pressure sensor is connected to the ignition switch and the starter button. It sends voltage to the solenoid if (ignition switch AND oil pressure) OR (starter button). My oil pressure sensor is wired up a little differently (see photo). The red wire is to the starter button. The yellow wire (to the igntion switch) and the white wire (to the lockoff valve) are both connected to the same terminal, so if the ignition is on, there is power to the lockoff valve, which seems wrong.

    2) When you turn the ignition switch, you send power to the lockoff valve solenoid. Usually you don't hear any sound from it. Occasionally you can hear the solenoid switch, which implies that the lockoff valve isn't switching consistently.

    3) The lockoff valve appears to be failing open, as when I crack the fitting before the regulator (see photo) I get propane coming out, regardless of the position of the ignition switch. If I shut off the manual valves, the propane stops leaking after a bit. When I turn the manual valves back on, the propane starts leaking through the cracked fitting, regardless of the position of the ignition switch.

    4) all this means I am getting propane to the inlet of the regulator, but beyond that I'm not sure how/where to start troubleshooting.

    If this hadn't worked an hour before it showed up at my shop, I would think that the wiring was completely screwed up, but the fact that it just worked before the truck ride implies that something vibrated loose/broke. I just can't find it. To be honest, I don't see how it's not leaking propane constantly given that the lockoff valve isn't working and/or is wired directly to the ignition.

    Does anyone have any advice?

    Can anyone with the same lift please tell me how their oil pressure sensor is wired?

    Thanks,
    Daniel

    oil-pressure-sensor.jpglockoff-valve-1.jpgregulator.jpglockoff-valve-2.jpg

  2. #2
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    Daniel,
    The first thing I'd try is to give it a taste of ether. Might help you rule out a few things. Mine is older than yours, so I'm not familiar with those control valves. Oh, it's in the mail.
    Ray

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  4. #3
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    Have you contacted the previous owners ...they might have a few clues.......Otherwise ,you may have to shell out for a repair man to come ...but if he does ,get him to explain some of the details of operation to you.

  5. #4
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    It may have just run recently and as such had fuel in the manifold.

    Many propane systems have a primer button on the control regulator that squirts some fuel in to allow it to catch.

    The system needs air flow to allow propane valve to work.

    Yours also needs oil pressure as it is a safety interlock to shut off if engine not running.

    Our scissor lift has neither and is a pain to start.

    It does not crank fast enough to move enough air to allow propane "carb" to work.

    The propane carb is on air cleaner side of the gas one (dual fuel type) so when cold auto choke restricts air.

    What to do...we added a Gibbs oil cup with the flip top on top of the external air cleaner.

    With gas in a oil can we squirt a few shots of gas in and by the time we get to the start button it is evaporated in the air inlet system and the engine fires up and the propane works.

    Try starter fluid or look for primer button.

    Also Google for operators manual as it should have cold start instructions maybe...

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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    If fuel is passing thru fuelock, without being energized, you need to replace fuelock, its probably not opening all the way either.

    Revised thought, make sure the oil pressure switch is breaking connection to fuelock when engine is off.

  7. #6
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    Your climate is far different than mine. But, my Namco does not like any choke, ever.
    It also does not like a low battery (as kind of mentioned already).
    Make sure your battery is at full capacity, and you are getting a proper cranking speed.
    Also, when I first bought this one, just as yours, it "had" spark. But, it was a bear to start. And, ran quite poorly.
    I replaced the points, and it has started easy. And, purred like a kitten ever since.

  8. #7
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    Thank you all for the ideas. I'll be working more on it as I have time.

  9. #8
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    Okay, I don't know if this will help or baffle further....

    I have a Namco which has a toggle switch and a keyed ignition as most do.

    The toggle has to be on the up position for it to start... but will turn it off if turned off within 2 minutes.... but can be flipped after 3 minutes without shutting the engine off. If you leave it on, it will drain the battery.

    Also, mine needs a touch of choke to start, but brief.

  10. #9
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    Just picked up my own Namco this afternoon... it is very hard starting and poor running. Very weak spark while cranking. Going to get new points and a new condensor and start there. Pretty simple machine though.


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