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Old Clark Forklift need help identifying model cant find serial number

bowzer

Plastic
Joined
May 7, 2020
The serial number for this machine is wore off the plate cant find where it may be stamped on the machine. I need to order brake parts but cant without the serial number attached is a photo.forklift 1.jpg
 
Ser.# Should be stamped on the top rolled edge of the frame on right or left side where the side doors open Like CY60-70-or 80, depending on capacity. If 6 cyl. Cont.CY, If Perkins will be C500 Y60-70-80.
 
Ser.# Should be stamped on the top rolled edge of the frame on right or left side where the side doors open Like CY60-70-or 80, depending on capacity. If 6 cyl. Cont.CY, If Perkins will be C500 Y60-70-80.

Looks very similar to my 1972 CHY 60 which is a 3 speed clutch version with single wheels. Thinking yours could be a 70 or 80 version like mine if its a clutch model. Or possibly the c500 if its an automatic. I cant really tell in your picture. The serial number on mine is on the right side right where Bigais said it should be.

Jeff
 
Fixing the brakes is a nightmare in these little Clarks.....hope its just the master cylinder ,which is just a standard truck one.....As mentioned ,the wheel brakes are inside the axle housing ......Ive been fixing forklifts for 50 odd years ,and used to refuse wheel brake jobs on these...Might I say it looks damn cold there ....poor little thing needs stored undercover..........snow chains on a forklift ...now Ive seen everything.
 
Unfortunately pretty sure that it will need more then just a master cylinder there is no brakes at all probably never been done. And yes the snow chains work pretty good out in the yard in the winter
 
It is an automatic still cant find it

Mine wasn't real obvious to see with multiple layers of paint over top of it but it was there where Bigais said. Had to open door and was stamped right into the metal. Mine had no brakes when I bought it either. Replaced the master cylinder and was good to go. My master cylinder wasn't just a typical truck one though as I tried the local NAPA since the one on my old hyster was purchased there. Had to get it through a dealer and it wasn't cheap. Your setup is likely different than mine though being an automatic.
 
I did a bit of work on the brakes of one about six months ago...the master cylinder was a (1960s) standard truck Wagner ,type with the cast iron top ....wasnt cheap ,around $150 as I recall...I could have gone with a cylinder resleeve ,but the fork was needed urgent ......funny thing with forks ,they never get fixed until theyre needed urgent.........The wheel brakes are inside the housings ,and on the one I did ,the mast would need to come off to remove the axle housings....one wheel was working ,that was enough for them.
 
My Clark forklift had a shuttle valve which put the transmission in neutral when the pressure rose in the brake system. Sort of an elaborate Tee in the plumbing.

I took that part out, simple bypass. New master cylinder, new brake cylinders, new brake shoes, bypass the shuttle as described. Seemed like the shuttle valve was a point of leakage and could introduce brake fluid into the transmission. Probably not fatal but not ideal either.

I can see how if a person was constantly using the throttle to accelerate pump flow and raise the mast faster, my modification would cause additional fluid-shear in the torque converter which could eventually result in an overheat in the transmission. Definitely a concern for someone using it in warehousing or truck freight = extended use.

But I just use it at idle or a little bump of the throttle to go over a dip in the driveway.

It takes a fair number of bolts to get the axle reductions out, but its just work, nuts and bolts. No exotic training needed.
 
i did a bit of work on the brakes of one about six months ago...the master cylinder was a (1960s) standard truck wagner ,type with the cast iron top ....wasnt cheap ,around $150 as i recall...i could have gone with a cylinder resleeve ,but the fork was needed urgent ......funny thing with forks ,they never get fixed until theyre needed urgent.........the wheel brakes are inside the housings ,and on the one i did ,the mast would need to come off to remove the axle housings....one wheel was working ,that was enough for them.

well that would be enough for me as well where did you find the master cylinder ?
 
Just got quoted 1300 for the master cylinder sure would like to know where you got the one for $150.00 sound like a good deal.
 
Just got quoted 1300 for the master cylinder sure would like to know where you got the one for $150.00 sound like a good deal.

Thats the cool thing about being a machinist. You don't need *That* particular one.

A master cylinder is nothing more than a hydraulic cylinder, usually 2 or 3 mounting bolts,
a few standard outputs, and then a rod pokes it in the ass.

Find something with a similar cylinder size, and the same # of outputs (or not?, its a forklift,
not a track car). Buy some adaptors to get to the correct line size. Make an adaptor to mount
it, and then lengthen or shorten the rod that pokes it in the butt hole.

Done.

It doesn't have to be pretty, it doesn't have to be made out of mil-spec-billit-aircraft-grade-titanium-chromoly.

It just has to work. And it doesn't even have to work all that well.. Its a fricken fork lift.

And you're a fricken machinist. You got this.
 
I was looking at one of the reality shows about Yukon gold miners ,and they had a chain in a shaker or trommel break,and a new chain cost something like 3 oz of gold dust from the local machinery repairer.The repair guy opens his safe and hes got coffee tins full of gold in his stash....I thought ,naaa Id never stand the cold.
 
I have a '67ish Clark IT-60... goofyest forklift I've ever worked with... Chrysler Industrial 225 slant... seemingly NO parts interchange with auto or truck... has a torque converter, an F-N-R box, then a 4-speed trans going to a CLARK axle with 'buried' brakes. Springs on the steer axle, an 'inching' pedal to 'dump' the torque converter... and the main hydraulic pump is a vane-type, provides EVERY hydraulic mast lift, tilt, and power steering...) as long as the vanes aren't stuck in retracted position... and the engine is screaming...

and that 4-speed... in FIRST gear, foot to the floorboards, it's good for about 10mph. In 2nd, it easily goes 25, but it's dangerous-as-hell, because... as soon as you take your foot off the throttle... there's NO STEERING... WHY would it have a 3rd and 4th?

The mast is 14' tall, will place a two-ton pallet at 35ft up... has five sections inside a collapsing cylinder. There's gotta be at least 35 pieces in the seal rebuild kit... and it takes a larger forklift to pick out that massive cylinder. (what were they thinking?

And that 'magic' axle... for some reason, it likes to randomly 'lock up' one of the driving wheels, which causes the machine to abruptly pivot either left, or right when moving, or when not, attempting to move forward or back results in the one 'free' wheel to promptly dig through my gravel driveway, straight to Beijing... axle has been completely gutted, both hubs, axles, brakes and differential entirely replaced, and it STILL just locks up one wheel...

Yeah... good ideas... but realllly bad ideas. As others noted, it's a @#%$

Which all leads back to Evil. Contrary to what the Bible says, MONEY is NOT the 'root' of all evil. PLUMBING is the 'root', and forklift trucks are LOADED with plumbing, henceforth, they are LOADED with evil...
 
I got all my fork stuff thru a crowd called TVH ,claimed biggest supplier of aftermarket fork parts....And thats where I got the cylinder ,recall particularly because they quoted me around $50 trade ,the hit me up for $150 when the bill came .....reason being ....you dont buy enough stuff anymore to qualify for trade......Anyway ,in the past I used TVH especially for hard to get non forklift stuff ...like windscreen wiper units for classic trucks ,stuff like that,and odd distributors converted to electronic with one of their units ....fraction of the price the distributor reconditioners wanted for a re bearing.
 
Actually I own a fiberglass shop I am not a machinist but I know some and great idea. If the TVH place John K mentioned doesn't pan out I will pull it out and see what I can find to make it work. Thanks
 








 
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