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Safe Starting Fluid for Propane Forklift Engines?

Cannonmn

Stainless
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
My Hyster S-60 is maybe 10 yrs old, 10k hrs, wouldn’t start at all at under about 90 degrees ambient temp., but started fine with about 3 sec. spray of any starting fluid into opened air cleaner. Repair guy said it was the converter and installed a seal kit made for that converter. Then it started fine as long as weather was warm. Now that ambient is always under about 65 degrees, again it won’t start without starting fluid. A friend recommended Gumout brand as easier on engines somehow. What is a safe-on-propane-fueled-engine starting fluid if you have some technical rationale?
 
When I've run into this, I use ether starting fluid - just a quick squirt always worked.

The intake valves can get burned over time in a propane engine, and that reduces the engine intake vacuum when you're trying to start it. The reduced vacuum doesn't open the propane regulator, so it can't start.
 
3 seconds ?

Must be running out the carb.

A simple spritz is all that's needed to get it to fire.
preferably when cranking.

If it pools, it can catch on fire.
 
3 seconds ?

Must be running out the carb.

A simple spritz is all that's needed to get it to fire.
preferably when cranking.

If it pools, it can catch on fire.

Still? A simple spritz used to be enough to seat the bead on large EQ tires but it seems like about 20 yrs ago most brands lost rheir oomph. I haven’t done a tire in a long time and even then it wasn’t the safest way.
 
3 seconds ?

Must be running out the carb.

A simple spritz is all that's needed to get it to fire.
preferably when cranking.

If it pools, it can catch on fire.

You mention carb so you are probably referring to a gasoline engine. This one runs on propane and has a converter, not a carb. When we used to try to start it with a shorter duration spray, it would run just long enough to burn that up, then die. But 2-3 sec will normally keep it running long enough to get the propane in to sustain it.
We spray it on the accordion-paper and wire mesh air filter, which absorbs it on contact, so there’s no chance of pooling.
 
You mention carb so you are probably referring to a gasoline engine. This one runs on propane and has a converter, not a carb. When we used to try to start it with a shorter duration spray, it would run just long enough to burn that up, then die. But 2-3 sec will normally keep it running long enough to get the propane in to sustain it.
We spray it on the accordion-paper and wire mesh air filter, which absorbs it on contact, so there’s no chance of pooling.

I can read.

I fully read & understood your machine is runnin on propane.

Many propane engines retain a carb.

As yours does not, merely substitute "throttle body" for carb,
and my post is still valid.

Pouring 3 seconds of ether anywhere
near an engine (propane/gas/diesel) is an accident waiting to happen.

Have you tried the "override button" on your demand regulator (if so equipped) ?

Have you checked valve lash ?
 
I can read.

I fully read & understood your machine is runnin on propane.

Many propane engines retain a carb.

As yours does not, merely substitute "throttle body" for carb,
and my post is still valid.

Pouring 3 seconds of ether anywhere
near an engine (propane/gas/diesel) is an accident waiting to happen.

Have you tried the "override button" on your demand regulator (if so equipped) ?

Have you checked valve lash ?

Maybe true with ether, the stuff I use is only 20% ether, the rest is heptane and CO2. I’m not even slightly worried about a starting fluid fire, I do what I gotta do to get the thing running. What I wanted to know here is whether some starting fluids are easier on the engine than others. I’m guessing the mostly-ether ones aren’t good for the engine.
 
I had a LPG forklift that would not start when the weather got cold.
What I found was the vent line on the Impco regulator had enough of the stinky LPG residue that it would solidify when cold and not allow the regulator diaphragm function.
New vent hose and problem solved.
 
Does your regulator have a "choke" function?

I'd fix the problem with the propane system.
 
I went through a period of bad starting on my propane Hyster a couple of years ago. Could only start in cold weather if I warmed the Impco evaporator with a hot air gun.

Looked into seal kits, stripping and rebuilding and it was only marginally cheaper than a replacement even doing it myself. Bought a new one and it's been fine ever since!
 
To your original question, it appears that all starting fluids now contain the same ingredients, ether, heptane, and carbon dioxide. Nothing there particularly harmful or beneficial. They used to be mostly ether with a bit of diesel for lubrication. Apparently no more.
 
Our scissor lift is same.

It is dual fuel so we start on gas.

Problem as we understand how it works is engine vacuum enables the regulator to open.

If the starter cranks slow vacuum low and starter turns fast starts up sooner.

Once it has been running it has enough vapor in it to go.

We just recently got the hose and tank to put l.p. back on it as it came without it 13 years ago.

We both have things to check when we have time..

Make sure battery system good including all connections so it cranks fast.

Check for vacuum leaks and make sure nothing in path to regulator.

We have a carb and it acts as throttle body but the choke may effect this, need to test with holding open just to see.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Does your lift have a primer? Most do. It's either a button right in the middle of the regulator/vaporizer or some have a electric button somewhere on the dash that go to a solenoid on the vaporizer. The primer will dump propane into the intake and do the same thing as either. Some vaporizers don't have primers though, but you can change your current one to one that has a primer.

That being said, either won't hurt a thing. Either isn't nearly as hard on spark ignition engines as it is diesel engines.
 
On my hyster it helps if I hold it a about 3/4 down on the gas pedal. I don't think a short shot of either hurts anything on the older engines.
 








 
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