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Shipping a bridgeport mill freight

PegroProX440

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Location
Ormond Beach
I need to ship a Bridgeport mill by freight. Is there any info out there how best to crate something like this. Im assuming I build a skid and bolt it to it then construct bracing supports. I have never seen one transported other than on the back of a trailer just strapped down so Im not sure what the best method to attack this one is.
 
Tarped flatbed is best way. LTL you need to make a HD skid/pallet that is as large as the machines max dimensions. Rotate head down with keen as low as it will go. Good idea to remove all cranks/handles. Shrink wrap it well. Seen some real disasters LTL freight coming into my dealer friends shop on too small of skids. Assume if freight company can tip it over they will. Repeat solidly bolted to a HEAVY pallet/skid !!
 
I shipped a larger than normal size bridgeport a few years ago LTL, its best if you do the prep but to have the buyer arrange the shipment so they have to deal with any damage. I built a mongo pallet out of 4x6 and it was a good bit larger in every direction so impossible to tip, yet still movable with a pallet jack AND liftable with 48" fork lift forks via removable section of the pallet which is important if its going to be unloaded with a fork lift! lots of protection of controls and such and a good shrink wrap job
LTL guys rarely tie anything down, so if YOU are shipping go via tarped flatbed if possible, like johnevans says...
 
If you ship in a box trailer there will be no tie downs at all. Which of course isn't legal but the average driver today doesn't have a clue or care.

A couple days ago here in CA a WalMart truck loaded with bottled water was laid over on Hwy 99. Imagine if that was the truck with your mill in it.

Ship on a flat bed, that's what they're for.

Recently Keith Fenner did some videos on fixing a mill that had tipped over in a truck. The pictures should be eye opening.

Recently Keith Fenner did some videos on repairing a mill that was shi
 
They are not "tie down tracks", they are load bar tracks, for these wimpy things:

Cargo Bars & Load Bars | Extendable Aluminum Shoring Beam 92" - 13"

They don't keep the load from rocking side-to-side, only fore and aft, mostly fore under hard braking. Problem is, the driver usually sets them behind the load... go figure. The only good they do there is keep piles of boxes from tipping if he backs into a steep loading dock.

My rules of thumb for shipping machines:
1) The pallet has to be sturdy enough to keep the machine from tipping. For a Bridgeport, than means at least 2X6 planks on 4X4 stringers. Through bolts are better than lags.
2) The pallet has to be large enough that the lift truck fork plate will hit it before the mast can hit any part of the machine. If you have a 48" table, that means at least a 54" pallet.
3) Take the handles off and pack them in a wooden box securely banded to the pallet.
4) Wrap the whole machine with stretch wrap. It will keep it dry, and show evidence if a wayward fork poked into it.

Added after some reflection:

Make sure you have insurance. The insurance that automatically comes with the tariff pays very little on new machines, less on used machines, and even less if it's not fully crated. You need insurance that will pay a specific value if the machine is lost or damaged. Best way is to see if you can get what is called anInland Marine Rider on an existing business policy This can be for a one time shipment, and is usually pretty cheap. The biggest advantage is you are dealing with your insurance company, not the motor carrier's.

Dennis
 
Negative. There's a whole slug of straps that fit those tracks.

Ancra-Conway-Feb2011.jpg
 
And just how stout do you think those walls are? It's pretty common for van trailers to spilt open in a wreck. A pallet of toilet paper won't do much damage spilled out on the highway but a Bridgeport skidding along the fast lane might kill someone.

Proper,legal tiedowns on a flatbed aren't just about securing the load for normal rolling down the road but also for out of control things gone wrong times.
 
Obviously you are never going to be satisfied.

I can tell you that the walls of a van trailer are the entire structure of the trailer and can support 40,000 lbs or more. Those trailers have no frame.

I can also tell you that Bridgeport type machine tools are shipped in crates in van trailers every day. They ship them in containers all the way from China every day.
 
Obviously you are never going to be satisfied.

I can tell you that the walls of a van trailer are the entire structure of the trailer and can support 40,000 lbs or more. Those trailers have no frame.

I can also tell you that Bridgeport type machine tools are shipped in crates in van trailers every day. They ship them in containers all the way from China every day.

The deck of a trailer can support 40k or more. The walls? They can barely support the fiberglass roof. A container is built very different from a van trailer.

You may not like what I'm saying but I'm only harping on it because I've seen up close what can go wrong. Just because it is done wrong doesn't make it safe or smart. I've seen a car crushed by a load that came off a big truck is that something you want to be involved in? It's not like there's a shortage of flatbeds out there.
 
...I can also tell you that Bridgeport type machine tools are shipped in crates in van trailers every day. They ship them in containers all the way from China every day.

And they ship them on pallets large enough to keep them from tipping, and stout enough so they don't collapse or disintegrate allowing the machine to get loose. Then the only real problem is to keep them from sliding around. Kinda like the pallet and crate you show above... that will support the trailer.

Dennis
 
Hi,
I am transferring jobs.
I am wanting to prepare my J-head Bridgeport for shipping via a moving company. And want to do any/everything possible protect it from damage. I know move Gun Safes, but a Mill is an entirely different animal?I noticed mention of building a 5’x5 custom pallet using 2x6’s on 4x4 Stringers by “Dennis” I believe.

How is the Mill secured to the pallet?
Should Construction Adhesive be used between stringers and planks in addition to thru bolts?

Any plans and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Leaky
 
Hi Leaky

I gave you a bunch of stuff on GJ so forgive me for also posting here so here's a few more.

I would use GRK-RSS structural screws for your skid construction. You can remove all of them when you complete your move and reuse them for other jobs. Requires a T-30 torx bit and an impact driver. Typically available at Home D. ABC-SPAX also make good structural screws but I prefer the GRKs. Far superior to any lag bolt. Companies shipping 6 figure machines on wooden skids use these type of screws regularly.

I would thru-bolt your milling machine using garden variety 1/2" threaded rod "all thread". Hex nuts and bolts, cut it with a grinder cutoff wheel or a bandsaw and dress the lead thread with a file. Use the biggest thickest washers you can find under the wood timbers. It would be a very good idea to drill something like 3" x 3" x 1/4" flat bar to make the washers I'm talking about before you shut the mill down for good.

Make the pallet big enough that no forklift mast can touch the leadscrews and the handles....or any other part of the machien for that matter. Forklift operators are famous for sliding or bull-dozing skids by simply pushing them with the machine's power. You don't want any part of your precision machine being a part of that equation.
 
Matti,
I had not been to GJ Yet today but will. Thanks
I have used the GRK Fasteners before and thought they were superb. I’ll pick up some threaded rod too.
Many thanks again.
Leaky
 
The only thing I would add to the skid recommendation is to have a piece of heavy plywood or 2x6 running under the main deck at 90º where the bolts for the machine go through, this is to spread the load on more than one 2x6 deck board. And have 2 4x4 stringers in the center of the pallet, one at each edge of the machine, not just one in the center.
 
Go to the home building hardware section of the big box hardware store. they have square 1/2 and 5/8 washers for bolting down the mudsill of a house. easier and probably cheaper then making your own. They are sized so any bigger is going to pull out the anchor bolt or break it before the wood tears out. The round washers have been outlawed for decades.
Bil lD
 
The only thing I would add to the skid recommendation is to have a piece of heavy plywood or 2x6 running under the main deck at 90º where the bolts for the machine go through, this is to spread the load on more than one 2x6 deck board. And have 2 4x4 stringers in the center of the pallet, one at each edge of the machine, not just one in the center.

I’m still building the non digital watch here.
Following this, If I use 6 4x4 stingers on a 60” pallet, by my calculations, I will have an 8-1/2’ x 3-1/2 pockets on each side to receive Forks. I think maximum Fork width is 6”x 2”. Is this adequate? Pockets on the common skids I have measure as much as 10-1/2 and unfortunately I don’t have a Fork Lift.

Thanks everyone.
Leaky
 
Leaky

Here's my idea.

Layer of 1x4s
Layer of 4x4s perpendicular
Layer of 2x6s perpendicular to 4x4s/parallel to 1x4s.
If you desire pieces of plywood put it between the 4x4s and 2x6s.

Orient the timbers so the forklift can pick from the back is my thought. Least amount of stuff to potentially get in the way. Have to give the forklift driver some help in setting up a "heavy end".

The 1x4s are so you can use a pallet jack. Suppose that it gets moved and they set it in your new shop with a billion other boxes. Somewhere along the way you want to relocate it within the facility but aren't ready to go down the road of setting it up quite yet....the pallet jack is now your easiest and best tool.

 
Leaky

Here's my idea.

Layer of 1x4s
Layer of 4x4s perpendicular
Layer of 2x6s perpendicular to 4x4s/parallel to 1x4s.
If you desire pieces of plywood put it between the 4x4s and 2x6s.

Orient the timbers so the forklift can pick from the back is my thought. Least amount of stuff to potentially get in the way. Have to give the forklift driver some help in setting up a "heavy end".

The 1x4s are so you can use a pallet jack. Suppose that it gets moved and they set it in your new shop with a billion other boxes. Somewhere along the way you want to relocate it within the facility but aren't ready to go down the road of setting it up quite yet....the pallet jack is now your easiest and best tool.


Looking at your drawing, the mill seems to be bolted down to the 2x6. That probably won’t work. You need the bolts to go down through the mill and the 4x4s. Even though the mill is bolted to the 2x6, only thing holding the 2x6 to the 4x4 is small screws or nails.
 








 
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