Show me your....FORK LIFT! - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    Construction loaders require a very smooth operator for loads that have some level of concern. With the articulated steering, steering moves can cause rather violent moves of the fork tips. But if you need to carry something heavy across an unimproved road or bare dirt they are your best option.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeE. View Post
    Attachment 224409

    This was going down the highway in Olathe, Kansas.

  3. #63
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    New old girl.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  4. #64
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    Looks good, I am guessing 8,000 lb? Lift.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by true temper View Post
    Looks good, I am guessing 8,000 lb? Lift.
    10k.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  6. #66
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    Fresh oil change, brakes bled, power steering fixed, put to work.


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  7. #67
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    That is a stout looking planer.

    Steve

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    That is a stout looking planer.

    Steve
    It's a light weight compared to my whitney s970 double 30"

    That buss 44 is about 8500 pounds. Whitney is 12800.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  9. #69
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    Here are my two lifts. A Hyster YT-40 from the fifties I believe and a 1970 Clark CHY60.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails clark-lift.jpg   forklifts2.jpg  

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  11. #70
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    That Clark is a beauty, too bad it has a Short mast.

  12. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by true temper View Post
    That Clark is a beauty, too bad it has a Short mast.
    Yeah- I wish it had a taller one too but I make do with it. Lifts to like 8'3" I think.

  13. #72
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    Ive got a few but for moving stuff inside a crowded shop nothing beats a Bendi articulated lift. The front wheels are on a pivot so good for uneven terrain. Also good for street driving as steering from the front is more stable at speed.

    This one does 4K and super low carriage 3 stage so you can get high up on a pallet rack. Also the older ones like this one (2002) use generic speed controllers, lots of spares on ebay. 48vdc battery.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bendi.jpg  

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  15. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff76 View Post
    Here are my two lifts. A Hyster YT-40 from the fifties I believe and a 1970 Clark CHY60.
    That Clark looks sharp as a tack.


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  17. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnctoolcat View Post
    Here's my 5k Toyota...she starts as soon as the key is turned, and runs like a top.

    Bought it off-lease back in 2010. We only use it maybe 15 minutes a week, but she currently reads 25k hours on the meter!

    Only trouble I've had with it was a bad distributor. The famous "4Y" motor was used on all kinds of Toyotas, so I sourced the replacement distributor for a 1978 Corolla. $100 versus $500 from Toyota forklift dealer!

    I do need to re-do the brakes, sometimes they are a little grabby and noisy. I would like to have the brake shoes on hand when we tear into it, but the damn Toyota parts manual lists "codes" instead of actual part numbers, so it's almost impossible to determine what pads I actually need until it's apart. May just have the original pads relined...?

    The hours on your truck are impressive. Apparently that's not an uncommon amount for that engine. 25K hours x 60 mph = 1,500,000 miles.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  18. #75
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    If I were "toolcat" I'd pull those wheels and check for wheel cylinder leakage, axle shaft and or hub seal leakage, broken spring or springs and possible broken self adjuster cable. Broken cable would cause out of adjustment issue and possible noise while laying in drum, along with a possible broken spring. Grease and or brake fluid leakage(from wheel cyl) would cause grabbing unless brake lining is soaked with such. Of course check BRAKE ADJUSTMENT. A lot of times operators don't brake before changing direction, so self adjusters do not get actuated (they only get actuated when brakes are applied in reverse).
    Toyota sells complete backing plates with shoes,springs,wheel cylinders,AND new park brake cables attached, and they sell the brake parts individually....in any case, it's easier to do a brake job with the backing plates removed (8-10 bolts hold backing plates and brakes to the axle). Change brakes on the bench, then reassemble the complete backing plate to the axle. (you wont be able to control the hold down spring pins during re-assembly of the brake shoes with the backing plates on the axle). Machine looks to be a 7FG-42GCU. Oh, check your steering axle trunnion bushings with 25K on the clock. Maybe some drive tires..when rubber depth gets to one inch or below, the machine rides hard and looses a lot of speed compared to 2.5" rubber depth.
    Tools..1.5" socket for lugnuts,17mm for axle shaft bolts,screwdriver to remove lock screw in bearing adjusting nut, 3.25" socket for bearing adjusting nut (stamped steel type, NOT A CHISEL), pull drum and inspect.

    Sorry about the keyboard diarhea, I'm fussy, especially when it comes to brakes. PB

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  20. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    Attachment 206729

    My 5K Clark. Triple mast. I put a side shift with fork positioning on it and am now forever spoiled for any forklift without positioning. The truck only has 3 valves, I put a solenoid valve on the carriage and connected it with a cordomatic reel to a switch on the lever. Has worked fine for years. Next thing it needs is a cctv camera between the forks and one on the rear with an LCD screen on the dash. I wish the cage was as tall as the mast, I bump my head on it when it bounces.
    that looks familiar 9-22-2018.jpg
    mine was built 1993, GPX-30E, got it for free, saved from going to the scrap dealer...had sat outside 2 years, needed a lot of stuff, mostly due to just shoddy maintenance by a horrid 'mechanic'...

    mines only got 2 valves/no mast hoses- but the idea of a solenoid for shifting between positioning/sideshift off a single valve is great!

    I just pulled a sideshift off another truck they are scrapping today, was amazed the only thing locking the sideshift on is a plastic insert! rocks in my head, hate seeing useable stuff scrapped it reasonably saveable- if I can fix steering, saved a 1963 towmotor 462SLP4020 that was gonna go too...if i can fix the steering(hard as heck, pivots ok, no assist- heard rumors old mechanic removed it/made it manual because it was leaking) plan is to repair whats needed,strip/paint od green-white star-etc/put tires on/donate to local air museum...they could use another one, it looks the 'motif' to sit inside with old aircraft/hardware displays

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  22. #77
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    Default genuine amish

    Here is an interesting local lift.
    genuine amish all air operated0217180823a95310000.jpg

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  24. #78
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    d25e92f0-36e2-4f94-bf9c-24b917791025.jpgHere’s a neat forklift accessory, a self-contained potty and plumbing system for those busy operators who don’t want to leave their rig to take care of business. A privacy package, with TP dispenser, is a separate option, and a good idea if your workplace has more than one of the 5 official-recognized sexes working in view of the forklift.

  25. Likes M.B. Naegle liked this post
  26. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by blgmachine View Post
    Here is an interesting local lift.
    genuine amish all air operated0217180823a95310000.jpg
    Wonder how they were able to rationalize all that arc welding...

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  28. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by blgmachine View Post
    Here is an interesting local lift.
    genuine amish all air operated0217180823a95310000.jpg
    Does someone ride that thing to control it, or is it done from the ground? Why pneumatic? Are hydraulics forbidden? Looks like a crazy contraption!


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