mazak/hundai qt15n chuck sometimes wont open so alarms out when bar pulling - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    once again
    those are generally din spec
    so most any brand directional valve will do on that stuff
    those index motors are kinda finicky for dirt and the like
    once i go into one i put a spin on hydraulic filter right up there on that hose loom to keep debris out of that system

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  3. #42
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    Wippen is right on again, the hydraulic solenoid valving (on those generation Mazaks at least) is standard DIN.

    On all of my hydraulically-indexed Mazak lathes, I install a flow control valve in the Pressure line, so I can regulate the speed of the index and clamp/unclamp.

    Just like the blinding spindle accel/decel rates Mazaks of that generation have, the turret rotating speed was impressive, but mighty hard on an old hydraulic index motor!

    Slowing the rotation down might cost you 1 second per index more time (BFD), but it can add years to your turret CL/UCL and rotate hydraulics!

    ToolCat

  4. #43
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    On my Hyundai the rotation isn’t that quick to be fair,

    I’ve seen a Hyundai hit15 running and it was at least 3 times faster

    The problem I sometimes get is it must be the valve sticking, as it make a funny noise and then starts to rotate the wrong way, even if I go back into manual and command it to rotate forward it will rotate in reverse! And the only way the solve the problem is to power down the machine, it’s like the valve gets stuck and can’t unstick

    I did remove and clean the directional valves but it didn’t solve the issue,

  5. #44
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    Going back to the chips that I’m replacing on 1 of the main boards, I just checked and it is the MC323 board

    There’s a few on eBay and they are cheap, does anybody know if this is a standard part that is interchangeable without having to wipe and re do memory etc? As if replacing the couple of chips doesn’t work I might just try and entire second hand board?

    Thanks
    Marc

  6. #45
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    can you post a picture of the chip?

  7. #46
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    Afraid not as I didnt see see which 1 it was he traced it back to

    Here’s the board

    09f0d87b-a333-43f8-8c6d-a6ab1fe9c43e.jpg
    Thanks
    Marc

  8. #47
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    i think he was probly talking about those brown flat devices running up and down in the middle of that board
    those are not what i would call "chips"
    i suspect they are solid state relays
    if so
    the answer to your question is
    no there is no programming required
    remember or coarse im just making a swag based on our conversations and these pics

    and

    i'd throw one of those $100 boards at it in a heart beat figuring lost time at whatever your charging rate is gonna cover that gamble pretty quick


    kw

  9. #48
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    Yeah the board from the states used is about £100 delivered so i have just bought one on ebay but again delivery will be around 2 weeks but hopefully sooner, the other new parts are still on order for my board too

    BUT.........

    The machine now won’t work at all!!!!

    You can Power on the main switch but when you now go to power up the rest of the machine via the control power button it trips a breaker every time!

    The breaker is a small 10amp one on the rear door above the relays and whatever it feeds goes to connector 11 on the relay board so it could be related to the other issue as it’s never done this before!

    So the plot thickens and now it gets worse for me as I can’t do any jobs on it now and it’s my only lathe

    This is the downside to complex old machines and being a 1 man shop as now that means no money being earnt

  10. #49
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    its the same as before
    disconnect one wire at a time till it comes up


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