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mazak qt with t2

powerworks

Plastic
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
hello, i have a problem with a new (second hand machine , entry today on workshop)

the problem is on freqrol model fr-se with module se-pw

problem is this alarm : 204 spindle controler malfunction, motor is tested with meger and all ok.

when i open this freqrol i see a condensateur bko-nc1043-h05 out, i replace .and second problem this no-fuse breaker 40amps was jump !, when i try to switch on, breaker of the line of this mazak qt8 jump....

i think about a short-circuit on this igbt, but i m not specialist.

your help will be very appreciated.

i read about the specialist cool cat say, ...... se-pw is good, se-io1 too.....rest igbt's, i mean.....

great thanks ...
 
Check power stage of VFD. Take a look on diode rectifier, check those large electrolytic capacitors (they can be in short circuit state. It tends to happen when they became old.). And yes- IGBTs and their drivers (on FR-SE these are DK-434 chips) can be the main fault for blowing fuses out.
 
There is one very simple way to check IGBT transistors. For that You need to have power supply with output voltage between 12 to 15V. Next thing to have is crocodile wires and light bulb from the car (with moderate power- up to 20-35W). Mark all wires that connects to IGBT power modules for easier connecting these later. I like to remove modules from VFD radiator and to test these on laboratory table, but this step is up to You. ;) Connect light bulb between power supplys positive output and transistors collector (this is marked on IGBTs case), emitter should be connected to power supply ground pin or minus. Connect one wire to transistors gate pin (or base if this is the case, they are named different over the time), hold it in Your hand (do not forget about static electricity- dont wear synthetic fabrics, discharge Yourself by touching something grounded). Switch on the power supply. Bulb should not lit on. Touch the positive power supply terminal (+12V)- light bulb should lit. Touch the negative terminal to switch bulb off. Repeat test several times. If bulb is lit on in all states, or doesnt lit on then IGBT You are testing is dead. This is the simplest method and for me it worked perfect in all cases. In attachement there is simple connecting circuit with what I described here (sorry for my MS Paint skills :D ).
igbt_test.jpg
 
There is one very simple way to check IGBT transistors. For that You need to have power supply with output voltage between 12 to 15V. Next thing to have is crocodile wires and light bulb from the car (with moderate power- up to 20-35W). Mark all wires that connects to IGBT power modules for easier connecting these later. I like to remove modules from VFD radiator and to test these on laboratory table, but this step is up to You. ;) Connect light bulb between power supplys positive output and transistors collector (this is marked on IGBTs case), emitter should be connected to power supply ground pin or minus. Connect one wire to transistors gate pin (or base if this is the case, they are named different over the time), hold it in Your hand (do not forget about static electricity- dont wear synthetic fabrics, discharge Yourself by touching something grounded). Switch on the power supply. Bulb should not lit on. Touch the positive power supply terminal (+12V)- light bulb should lit. Touch the negative terminal to switch bulb off. Repeat test several times. If bulb is lit on in all states, or doesnt lit on then IGBT You are testing is dead. This is the simplest method and for me it worked perfect in all cases. In attachement there is simple connecting circuit with what I described here (sorry for my MS Paint skills :D ).
View attachment 247663

FR-SE has bipolar Darlington transistors. FR-SF has IGBT. On one side of FR-SE transistor there must be a picture of internal combination, so check transistor according to that particular picture.
 
FR-SE has bipolar Darlington transistors. FR-SF has IGBT. On one side of FR-SE transistor there must be a picture of internal combination, so check transistor according to that particular picture.

hello again, thanks for your help.

i do investigation, all igbt was good !
i check this diode (mitsubishi rm30ta-h ) is broked.
on capacitors, there is only one capsule is jump. ( how i can test this capacitor?)

when new parts arrive, is it i must test other before start the machine?
 
hello again, thanks for your help.

i do investigation, all igbt was good !
i check this diode (mitsubishi rm30ta-h ) is broked.
on capacitors, there is only one capsule is jump. ( how i can test this capacitor?)

when new parts arrive, is it i must test other before start the machine?
 
I received the pieces today, must I check something else before putting the parts and turning on the machine?
your help is appreciable
 
I would recommend verifying all the SE-PW power supply outputs are good before turning the power contactor on. If those negative voltages are not correct you'll blow output transistors, very important for IGBT outputs.
Another tip to avoid blowing things up is to put light bulbs in the main power in lines to limit current and give indication of current draw. It will likely take ~200W bulbs to just power up but it could prevent burning up traces on the SE-I01 board and such. If the bulbs glow brightly there could be a short still.
 
I would recommend verifying all the SE-PW power supply outputs are good before turning the power contactor on. If those negative voltages are not correct you'll blow output transistors, very important for IGBT outputs.
Another tip to avoid blowing things up is to put light bulbs in the main power in lines to limit current and give indication of current draw. It will likely take ~200W bulbs to just power up but it could prevent burning up traces on the SE-I01 board and such. If the bulbs glow brightly there could be a short still.

great thanks, machine work
 








 
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