quick recap from my other thread. bought this lathe in non working order. no parameters,bad control, etc. all that is fixed and mostly operational. I'm down to one 218 chuck alarm from the reinitialization. My chuck will NOT open or close to be able to correct this. another issue is my tailstock. I tried to see if it worked the other day. it did....it came out just fine. now it wont go back in. lol. My relay is clicking on in the cabinet but nothing is going on. I switched relays and got nothing. where are the solenoids located for this? or what else would cause it not to retract? I've never ran this machine yet, but to my understanding the quill retract light has to be on for the spindle to operate ,correct? all i can get it to do is flash,and not retract. does this also apply to the chuck not clamping?i can get the spindle to jog somewhat. and reverse.
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MAZAK QT15 tailstock retract/spindle issue
- Thread starter Embrey
- Start date
- Replies 18
- Views 1,727
My Hyundai QT15n is basically a mazak QT15n
Yes the tailstock MUST be fully retracted and the retract light must be on constant or you cannot start the spindle (but it will jog as you say)
The solenoids for the tailstock and chuck are accessed from the top panel and are directly behind the pressure gauges
Easy check is to locate the tailstock solenoid and swap the 2 plugs over as you said it extended but wouldn’t retract, swapping them over should
Allow it to retract and not extend which will confirm your issue and at least allow you to get going,
Remember if it retracts you must continue to hold the switch in the retract position until it stops flashing and stays solid
Hope that helps
Thanks
Marc
Yes the tailstock MUST be fully retracted and the retract light must be on constant or you cannot start the spindle (but it will jog as you say)
The solenoids for the tailstock and chuck are accessed from the top panel and are directly behind the pressure gauges
Easy check is to locate the tailstock solenoid and swap the 2 plugs over as you said it extended but wouldn’t retract, swapping them over should
Allow it to retract and not extend which will confirm your issue and at least allow you to get going,
Remember if it retracts you must continue to hold the switch in the retract position until it stops flashing and stays solid
Hope that helps
Thanks
Marc
yes that was my plan to see what the issue is. but i wasnt exactly sure where they were without taking half the machine apart. that will save me some time. im wishing i hadnt tried to see if it worked now lol....now...provided i can get it back doing that, does it have any bearing on the chuck closing or opening? i just cant see both chuck solenoids being bad. but maybe.
so the tailstock is back home after swapping solenoids. so apparently one of them is bad. no big deal there. green light is on also. the chuck im still stuck on. i swapped the tail noids to the chuck and everything mechanically operates as it should in the chuck. it just wont work with the footswitch. all it does is turn the chip conveyor light on and off. i have 2 wires in teh back panel that are hanging unhooked. TDFE and TDRE. i havent found what they are yet, but from where they run, it looks maybe tool eye related?or possibly chuck area. hard to see. either that, or is there a parameter that could possibly prevent this from working?
Gobo
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2013
- Location
- Oregon, USA
If you MDI in M6 and M7 do you get any response?
crap. i was going to and totally forgot to try lol. i gotta figure out how to do that having never run these before. im used to my fanuc
Gobo
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2013
- Location
- Oregon, USA
Your TEST button is the MDI equivalent. Push TEST and you will get a menu with M codes as a choice. Push M CODES then key in the M code number followed by INPUT. Push cycle start.
yeah, thanks. i did figure that out actually though. lol. but no go on the chuck codes working. M codes worked on the tailstock though. i have two wires in the footswitch.one is labeled+24N. im assuming it should have 24v. but it doesnt.
EDIT: im gonna check that again. found my tester had bad connection this morning. i may very well have 24v there.
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Gobo
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2013
- Location
- Oregon, USA
Have you checked your slideway lube?
Have you checked your slideway lube?
LOL. yes. that was first thing i filled the day i got it home . i currently have the whole carriage apart cleaning everything and lube lines/valves. mainly because nobody ever does. lol
Gobo
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2013
- Location
- Oregon, USA
I seem to remember we had a lube alarm that turned out to be lube line that was blown out and would not allow the system to build pressure. Replaced a metering valve (?) and fixed it.
yeah, im gonna be replacing most if not all of these check valves. pretty much every one on the x axis is plugged up. ive got them all apart and soaking the body and its not helped much so far. i dont see how anybodys are even working anymore from the looks of mine. im about to buy some more valves. the z axis are pss 2. im not sure about the x yet, but they are made different internally. in a way i dont like. and apparently for good reason ,cause all but one on x are plugged solid and not coming back. do they restrict flow to the X vs the Z? i could see why, but they seemed restricted enough to casue plugging up, which is worse. wondering ifi should just put all the same valves in it
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