MAZAK QT15 tailstock retract/spindle issue
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  1. #1
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    Default MAZAK QT15 tailstock retract/spindle issue

    quick recap from my other thread. bought this lathe in non working order. no parameters,bad control, etc. all that is fixed and mostly operational. I'm down to one 218 chuck alarm from the reinitialization. My chuck will NOT open or close to be able to correct this. another issue is my tailstock. I tried to see if it worked the other day. it did....it came out just fine. now it wont go back in. lol. My relay is clicking on in the cabinet but nothing is going on. I switched relays and got nothing. where are the solenoids located for this? or what else would cause it not to retract? I've never ran this machine yet, but to my understanding the quill retract light has to be on for the spindle to operate ,correct? all i can get it to do is flash,and not retract. does this also apply to the chuck not clamping?i can get the spindle to jog somewhat. and reverse.

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    My Hyundai QT15n is basically a mazak QT15n

    Yes the tailstock MUST be fully retracted and the retract light must be on constant or you cannot start the spindle (but it will jog as you say)

    The solenoids for the tailstock and chuck are accessed from the top panel and are directly behind the pressure gauges

    Easy check is to locate the tailstock solenoid and swap the 2 plugs over as you said it extended but wouldn’t retract, swapping them over should
    Allow it to retract and not extend which will confirm your issue and at least allow you to get going,

    Remember if it retracts you must continue to hold the switch in the retract position until it stops flashing and stays solid

    Hope that helps

    Thanks
    Marc

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    Quote Originally Posted by M K View Post
    My Hyundai QT15n is basically a mazak QT15n

    Yes the tailstock MUST be fully retracted and the retract light must be on constant or you cannot start the spindle (but it will jog as you say)

    The solenoids for the tailstock and chuck are accessed from the top panel and are directly behind the pressure gauges

    Easy check is to locate the tailstock solenoid and swap the 2 plugs over as you said it extended but wouldn’t retract, swapping them over should
    Allow it to retract and not extend which will confirm your issue and at least allow you to get going,

    Remember if it retracts you must continue to hold the switch in the retract position until it stops flashing and stays solid

    Hope that helps

    Thanks
    Marc
    yes that was my plan to see what the issue is. but i wasnt exactly sure where they were without taking half the machine apart. that will save me some time. im wishing i hadnt tried to see if it worked now lol....now...provided i can get it back doing that, does it have any bearing on the chuck closing or opening? i just cant see both chuck solenoids being bad. but maybe.

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    Hi

    In my experience on mine NO, that will not stop the chuck opening or closing! On starting the spindle

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    ok. then ive got more things to figure out now . lol

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    Again you know that the tailstock forward solenoid works so you could plug that into the chuck open solenoid and try to open it using the tailstock switch

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    yes, i reckon that would work. i wasnt sure if that would be a great idea or if the control would like that or not...

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    so the tailstock is back home after swapping solenoids. so apparently one of them is bad. no big deal there. green light is on also. the chuck im still stuck on. i swapped the tail noids to the chuck and everything mechanically operates as it should in the chuck. it just wont work with the footswitch. all it does is turn the chip conveyor light on and off. i have 2 wires in teh back panel that are hanging unhooked. TDFE and TDRE. i havent found what they are yet, but from where they run, it looks maybe tool eye related?or possibly chuck area. hard to see. either that, or is there a parameter that could possibly prevent this from working?

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    If you MDI in M6 and M7 do you get any response?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobo View Post
    If you MDI in M6 and M7 do you get any response?
    crap. i was going to and totally forgot to try lol. i gotta figure out how to do that having never run these before. im used to my fanuc

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    Your TEST button is the MDI equivalent. Push TEST and you will get a menu with M codes as a choice. Push M CODES then key in the M code number followed by INPUT. Push cycle start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobo View Post
    Your TEST button is the MDI equivalent. Push TEST and you will get a menu with M codes as a choice. Push M CODES then key in the M code number followed by INPUT. Push cycle start.
    yeah, thanks. i did figure that out actually though. lol. but no go on the chuck codes working. M codes worked on the tailstock though. i have two wires in the footswitch.one is labeled+24N. im assuming it should have 24v. but it doesnt.
    EDIT: im gonna check that again. found my tester had bad connection this morning. i may very well have 24v there.
    Last edited by Embrey; 02-16-2021 at 11:53 AM.

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    yes. i did have 24v. and problem is gone now after resetting some things on the phone with mazak. excellent help. everything works now. with exception of tailstock solenoid. if anybody has one i may be interested

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    Funny thing was my QT15n Hyundai,

    My chuck open and close codes work fine and I have the relays for tailstock extend and retract but when I mdi M31/M32 nothing happens but the machine thinks it’s doing something and doesn’t alarm out saying illegal code etc

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    weird. lol. sounds parameter related . this fix has made me a new problem though. i now have a slideway lubrication alarm i cant get rid of...GRRRRR

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    Quote Originally Posted by Embrey View Post
    weird. lol. sounds parameter related . this fix has made me a new problem though. i now have a slideway lubrication alarm i cant get rid of...GRRRRR
    Have you checked your slideway lube?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobo View Post
    Have you checked your slideway lube?
    LOL. yes. that was first thing i filled the day i got it home . i currently have the whole carriage apart cleaning everything and lube lines/valves. mainly because nobody ever does. lol

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    I seem to remember we had a lube alarm that turned out to be lube line that was blown out and would not allow the system to build pressure. Replaced a metering valve (?) and fixed it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobo View Post
    I seem to remember we had a lube alarm that turned out to be lube line that was blown out and would not allow the system to build pressure. Replaced a metering valve (?) and fixed it.
    yeah, im gonna be replacing most if not all of these check valves. pretty much every one on the x axis is plugged up. ive got them all apart and soaking the body and its not helped much so far. i dont see how anybodys are even working anymore from the looks of mine. im about to buy some more valves. the z axis are pss 2. im not sure about the x yet, but they are made different internally. in a way i dont like. and apparently for good reason ,cause all but one on x are plugged solid and not coming back. do they restrict flow to the X vs the Z? i could see why, but they seemed restricted enough to casue plugging up, which is worse. wondering ifi should just put all the same valves in it
    Last edited by Embrey; 02-18-2021 at 01:11 PM.


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