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Mazak SQ1010MS

mkalavitz

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Hello,

I have a oldie Mazak SQT10MS.

Recently, I have been having alignment issues with the rear spindle. Even had to slow the transfer down because the rear spindle would
sort of 'chatter' on the transfer. I slowed it down to 20% just so we could get parts off the machine. These were non-critical parts.

I would also notice that the rear spindle would appear to 'lift' a bit when drilling in the back. Small pecks no big deal, but when pushing a drill
I could see it lift up.

Then, I started seeing the drill coming in off center on the rear. So, I determined it was well past time to have a machine repair guy in to do
adjust the rear gibbs and give it an alignment.

Well, he spent nearly the entire day pulling the gibbs out, cleaning them and re-installing. When he left, we thought I was all set to start machining the next
morning.

Well, I still have alignment problems...arrrrr....machine still down and no parts coming off from it. So, now, the machine repair guy can't get here because
he is dealing with COVID and backed up big time.

Looking at this a little closer with another machinist. We believe that the gibbs still need to be adjusted and then the rear spindle aligned.

We put a pry bar underneath the rear spindle to see if we could move it. When in the home position, we can pry/move the front and back of it up and down
just over .010". I would assume that this is some of my problem.

So, I am trying to put together a strategy to get this thing straightened out.

1. I want to check/adjust/snug up the gibbs. Does anyone have a proper procedure for doing this on this machine? If not, gibbs in general? How tight
do I go? Do I check head movement? Or, do Icheck load on the rear spindle when doing a transfer?

2. How about alignment? Proper procedure to get the rear spindle perfectly in light with the front spindle i.e. exactly colinear.

Any hints, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Or, is this machine just too much out of wack and it needs to go to the bone yard? I hope not. It is a
a good machine when it is up. But, it needs a little TLC.

Please advise..
Thanks Much!
Mike
 
.010 may or may not be a lot
if it takes a 2" chunk of solid bar 8 feet long to do it? maybe not
seems like i remeber that rear spindle gib is on top anyway so more tight would not raise it up
have you checked the bed for twist? is the big spindle dead on for taper?
seems like there might be some shims that rear head sits on for height but i dont recall for sure
wear and tear on an old lathe could drop the height of any moving axis including a subspindle
Mazak calls them a SUBSPINDLE for a reason
there's nothing but balls in there for bearings and chatter is there middle name

if you find the load meter for the axis you are working on you can give the gib half a twist at a time until you see a major change in the load when moving in jog


everything works if you let it
 
Thanks for the input.

Nope... .875" diameter steel bar x 42" long. Probably putting about 15 - 20 lbs of force on it and it moves.

There is something wrong there.

Tomorrow, I am going to try to remove the gibbs, clean again, etc. I just didn't know if there was a Mazak procedure of re-installing, shimming, tightening this
thing up. Wish there was a real clear assembly drawing of this guy with some dang specs.

Then, if I can get that put back together and lubed up, I will try to adjust the alignment.

The front spindle is pretty much dead nuts. I turned a piece 1.850" dia. x 5.500" long, aluminum. There was about .001 measurable difference in diameter from one
end to the other.

BUT...then in the back, I get about a .025" taper over the same length! Holy S***. That is the end of the bar is approximately .025" larger than the the end
clamped in the jaws.

Let me know if you have any further ideas.

Thx
Mike
 
Strip the guards, and adjust gibs, while at it, check condition of toothed belt, check play on ballscrew nut and thrust bearings.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the input.

Nope... .875" diameter steel bar x 42" long. Probably putting about 15 - 20 lbs of force on it and it moves.

There is something wrong there.

Tomorrow, I am going to try to remove the gibbs, clean again, etc. I just didn't know if there was a Mazak procedure of re-installing, shimming, tightening this
thing up. Wish there was a real clear assembly drawing of this guy with some dang specs.

Then, if I can get that put back together and lubed up, I will try to adjust the alignment.

The front spindle is pretty much dead nuts. I turned a piece 1.850" dia. x 5.500" long, aluminum. There was about .001 measurable difference in diameter from one
end to the other.

BUT...then in the back, I get about a .025" taper over the same length! Holy S***. That is the end of the bar is approximately .025" larger than the the end
clamped in the jaws.

Let me know if you have any further ideas.

Thx
Mike

if the taper is totally wack on that subspindle i'd get that figured out first, seems like that thing is similar to the old qt8's in that it sets in a cradle
that cradle is also were i would look for a shimming opportunity to get that height correct
as far as gib adjustment. every mazak guy(and that includes Norbert the north American service mgr in the 80's) screw gib in untill tight with screw driver, back it out 1/3 or a turn, lock it down and observe. you need to find those load meters so you can see how you are doing

id also get multiple indicators on it for the "pry" test to make sure you know just what is moving
 
Hi Guys,

Sorry for the late reply, but have been slammed with other things.

So, I finally got a closer look and trying to diagnose the problem here.

Took the covers off and stripped the guards back the best I could. The rear way guards are loose and I need to shuffle them back and forth in order to see behind them. I can not seem to actually get them out of the machine completely.

The gib adjustment screws were loose, so I tightened them right up. Ran the rear back and forth a few times by hand and am seeing approximately 5-7% on the load meter. Brought the rear spindle to within 5" of the front spindle after tweaking the gib adjustment screws. Put my 4' bar under the body/craddle of the rear spindle near the chuck and indicated the movement. Seems to be very minimal i.e. .002" ish.

Move the rear spindle back to its home position and indicate the movement. When at home, the movement is more like .012" of movement! Wow, I can actually see the spindle moving back there when I put a bar under it and put some pressure on it (similar pressure to when I tested up front). I can here what I think is oil slapping between the ways and the gibs.

I checked the front gib adjustment screws and they are still tight when the spindle is at home. I can not get to the rear gib adjustment screws when the
spindle is at home because the rear way cover= are still in the way. Im going to try to get this way cover out of the machine again tomorrow.

But, trying to reason in my head what could be allowing this movement when the rear spindle is at the home position.
1. The ways are that much more worn in the rear than they are in the front? Really? Doesn't seem right. Seems they should be more wore near the front of the machine as a result of the rear sliding over the ways up there. When at home, the rear spindle is just sitting there.
2. Or, something moves when the rear spindle returns to its home position.
3. Gibs wore and not able to adjust in the correct manor?

Anyway, appreciate any ideas you might have for trouble shooting. Need to take care of this movement when the rear spindle is home before I can work on the alignment.

The machine repair guy who was here 6-7 weeks ago pulled them all out and cleaned. He did mention that he shimmed them.. No, who knows what I have. Maybe his shim is moving? Should I pull all gibs out again and re-evaluate?

Ideas, input would be great!

thx Much
Mike
 
more movement at home than up in position i would start looking for galled ways, maybe a big ding that takes up slop
it does seem quite odd
maybe there is a brake not properly functioning, i don't remember the setup
5% load seems low to me
are you sure which gib screw tightens and which locks?
the gib adjustment should be able to be made at either end in theory

I can not get to the rear gib adjustment screws when the
spindle is at home because the rear way cover= are still in the way

that sucks
not sure of the location you are talking about
but
i have drilled a few stretigic holes in my day
if you use a electrical knockout holesaw then you can pop a plug in it after the fact

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