What's new
What's new

Mazak SQT18ms sheetmetal removal and cleaning

Ianagos

Stainless
Joined
Sep 23, 2014
Location
Atlanta
I decided I’m going to go through my machine thoroughly and clean it but I need some help with cleaning it and sheet metal removal.

The inside of the machine has seen lots of oil and it’s everywhere I started pulling sheetmetal off how should I go about cleaning? I was thinking of spraying alcohol or mineral spirts and letting it flow all down.

Also need all New way wipers all around the ones that are in the machine are trashed. That’s actually one of the reasons I started tearing into the machine.

Another question is about the spindle chiller. The previous owner put something that is not Mobil long life coolant in there. I haven’t drained it to figure out what but it looks like it could be oil or orange antifreeze of some sort. Do you guys think I’m ok to flush it with radiator flush and then fill it back with some regular antifreeze?

I think last question for now. How does one remove the main z axis cover? Mine has fallen off the brackets and I don’t know exactly how it is supposed to go or how to take it off.

9e207cfbbf18d7e3b60b7d956def2ee9.jpg

f932e4c933d2ba553240226f732fc903.jpg

f6d7770b013b4fd751223c78ad27b91a.jpg

d14c2eddf7657768dfaf71c583125cff.jpg
 
Anyone got anything that could help? The machine works fine just really want to clean it up and keep any more damage from occurring?

I also am going to try to do a full alignment and leveling. Does anybody have a parameter list for this vintage machine? (T plus control)

Last question I read on here that the t plus came standard with eia/iso but the parameter could be turn off. Does anyone know if this is true? Any way I can verify other than finding the parameter and changing it?
 
41b83aa62d09841fd3ae466a2508ccea.jpg



Ended up getting cover out. Glad I did the lower bearing was seized. Looks like the bearing were changed out with non standard bearings.

Linear rails looked ok and bell screws all are rust free.

Fixed all the covers up and I’m going to do a good cleaning and then going to level and align the turret and sub spindle.
 
Well hoping someone will chime in at some point but I’m making progress. Machine is almost ready to put back together. Found out that it seemed like someone put soluble oil coolant in the spindle chiller tank. The tank had a decent amount of the Mobil long life coolant in it but floating on the surface was coolant concentrate.

One big question is why does the c axis brake have 2 Oiler lines going into it? I’ve never known brake calipers to need any oil at all??
 
The C-axis brake is hydraulic?

Would explain the oil lines....

Ah yes it is and it has a hydraulic line going into it but I mean two lines from the way lube pump. Will try to take a picture tomorrow but I may forget.

Other than that the spindle side of the machine is almost completely clean. I went all the way cleaning but I’m thinking about bolting it back together and finishing another day.

Does anybody know a cheap source for the rubber wipers that wipe the x axis top cover?

d04481bb21785d186af75c73cc9fe3c7.jpg


Installed a new thicker glass for the light aswell and made some new gasket and trashed the atrocious mess that was on there collecting chips.
 
Well eventually I got everything fixed up and back together. Got new bearings for the z axis cover.

I leveled the machine then set the level up on the turret and got the twist out. I’m under a 1/4 of a division on full travel with a .0005” per foot level. It took 3 days of adjusting then settling to get it to hold without twisting back. I got over 6” of fiber reinforced concrete so hopefully it will stay put. I left the level on for over a week as I cleaned the machine and it held.


Also for the coolant situation it seems someone had poured oil or something to top off the blue spindle coolant but I drained and pressure washed the tank and got the blue coolant filtered and back in. Now it’s as it should be and I’m ok there.


I never did figure out why there are 2 oil lines feeding the c axis brake but the brake works fine so it is what it is.


Next think I want to do is put new seals in the hydraulic draw tube actuator and change the hydraulic oil out.

I haven’t found any documentation on the kitigawa f1768hs15y if anyone knows where to get a seal kit I’d appreciate it if you could let me know and also an exploded diagram or view of that sort.
 
what is up with the clamp and unclamp prox's. I see the OP doesn't even have them in the outer spindle housing ( hope that is the right name). On mine the prox's are in there but the wire is cut off. Why would they have prox's in there? Verify if drawtube is working or not? If thats is the case then how can they afford to be missing or cut? Finally, where do they go?

You think mineral spirits is good enough to clean the machine or something else?
 
That oil was pretty hard to clean mineral spirits barely touched it.

The proximity sensor are for very compliance or something. The machine doesn’t technically need them but they are a safety feature.
 
Well I did a lot of simple green and scrubbing with scotch rite pads. Also had mineral spirits and wd40 mixed depending on what I was cleaning.

I started with a narrow putty knife scraping the thick gunk then soak it with the wd40 and mineral spirits then come in with the scotch brite and scrub.
 








 
Back
Top