Quick Turn 15 Tailstock body slips. Help!
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    176
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    34

    Default Quick Turn 15 Tailstock body slips. Help!

    Hi Everyone,

    I'm finally getting around to using the tailstock on the qt 15 and the tailstock body gets pushed back when I engage the quill against the work. This happens even with the tailstock quill pressure adjusted SUPER low. How do I fix this?

    Also, there's a switch inside the electrical cabinet door next to the chuck ID OD clamp switch that says tailstock " clamp" and "unclamp". Right now it's in "clamp". How shall that switch be positioned and for what???

    Thanks very much guys,

    Grant

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    3,459
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5095
    Likes (Received)
    1773

    Default

    I had this happen on a Cincinnati Avenger from time to time. I had to take to cover of the side and tighten up a couple of bolts that came loose occasionally. My guess would be that the clamp is out of stroke. At least that was my situation.


    Brent

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    3,459
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5095
    Likes (Received)
    1773

    Default

    I tightened the bolts while the tailstock was in the clamped position. You want to be sure when its unclamped it is moving freely. Do you have clamp/unclamp switch on the control panel or Is it automatic? Some do some dont. The Avenger didn't. Does it sound like it the clamp/unclamp working?


    Brent

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    3,459
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5095
    Likes (Received)
    1773

    Default

    Sorry I didn't notice that this thread was in the Mazak forum when I posted. sometimes im bad about that.


    Brent

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN 55016
    Posts
    8,689
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4538
    Likes (Received)
    5115

    Default

    As long as you have some guards off check to be sure some chips haven't worked under the TS. Lock it up and see if you can slide in a .001 or .002" feeler gage in anywhere. Rich

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    5,454
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    That's a hydraulic clamped tailstock. Coils are prone to burning out. I'd be looking there first. If you toggle that clamp / unclamp switch, you should be able to see or feel the lines twitch as the pressure changes sides. You might also notice a slight dip on the pressure gage. You might need a second set of hands to work the switch while you have a look.

    Regards Phil.

    (On Edit). You can swap a coil from the tailstock advance / retract solenoid for testing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    il.
    Posts
    6,912
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    49
    Likes (Received)
    1435

    Default

    There are bolts going through the clamp cylinders into the clamping plates( look kinda like t-nuts) .bolts are Under front cover of tailbody. The bitch part is the locking screws are in a shitty spot through the side under chain cover. Tighten them with power off so tailbody can just move under power.

  8. Likes yardbird liked this post
  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    NY USA
    Posts
    136
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3
    Likes (Received)
    28

    Default

    Piggyback on whipping boy's reply. We've had several with a T+ control. It sounds from your description that you've got a T32 control, but i'm pretty sure the iron is the same on these ones. There is a DOUBLE SET SCREW + a brass keeper on the two T+ vintage machines i've torn into. Down under the ways on the clamp plates. You'll have to access one from the front and remove sheet metal off the back end to access the other. Make sure everything is super clean under there. Take the cover off the side of the tailstock, you'll see a couple of shafts with a hex on the end. Do it with the power off so you're not fighting the hydraulic on the clamp mechanism. The other problem we had with one is that the underside of the ways is so worn & beat up in one spot, it will still slip. Only run one part on that machine, so we made up some special tool holders to do the end work that will clear the tail stock. Also save a boatload of time by not moving tail body back and forth ever part, only the quill moves. It was a parameter change on the T+. I think the switch you referred to in post #1 will do what I just described on the earlier controls.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    il.
    Posts
    6,912
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    49
    Likes (Received)
    1435

    Default

    Missed switch question.
    Should be in clamped position
    Unclamp is for service works discussed
    I forgot the switch was there. I just turn control off to make adjustments.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    176
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    34

    Default

    Thanks guys!!

    I think it's mechanical, the hoses are definitely jumping when the solenoid moves it's spool.

    I'll have to dig for the locking screws, but then it looks pretty straight forward. I'm so glad I asked, I knew it could not be as easy as simply tightening the big obvious bolts under the ts cover.

    Thank you again all,

    Grant

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    il.
    Posts
    6,912
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    49
    Likes (Received)
    1435

    Default

    I knew it could not be as easy as simply tightening the big obvious bolts under the ts cover.
    well...

    it is mostly

    we just like hearing ourselves type

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    176
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    34

    Default

    "mostly" is the key word here! I'd have buggered the set screws likely without y'all's help.

    Thank you all!

    Cheers,

    Grant

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    il.
    Posts
    6,912
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    49
    Likes (Received)
    1435

    Default

    next!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    he hollered from behind the counter in a in his best soup Nazi outfit

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    5,454
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wippin' boy View Post
    next!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    he hollered from behind the counter in a in his best soup Nazi outfit
    I just got a private message, there's a spindle rebuild coming up. A juicy one with a hydraulic lock nut.

    Phil.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    5,870
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1184
    Likes (Received)
    2612

    Default

    Does anyone have pics of this? I feel I'm about to need to tighten my clamping mechanism.

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    176
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13
    Likes (Received)
    34

    Default

    I'm sorry, I don't have that machine and can't remember what was happening way back then. Good luck though!

  18. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    5,870
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1184
    Likes (Received)
    2612

    Default

    Got it! Now the tailstock will actually build pressure on the gauge instead of just moving the body back.

    First you remove the way covers, front and rear to expose the 2 pairs of set screws. They're hidden by grease and grime in these pics, but they most certainly must be loosened. I just backed them off a turn or two.

    20211130_094023.jpg

    20211130_094426.jpg

    Now remove the tailbody's cover to expose the clamp screws.

    20211130_094044.jpg

    With the control off, I tightened them about 1/2 half turn each. This reduced my running gap between the shoe and the way from well over 1/8" to maybe a 1/16"? I didn't gage it.

    Turn on the control to run some test cycles and if you're content turn the control off then reassemble.

    It's dead simple, just gotta get to those set screws. The first thing I noticed is that the body moves and stops much more smoothly.

  19. Likes cnctoolcat liked this post

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •