re: Mazak SQT10MS - 239 Milling Coupler Sensor Malf.

re: Mazak SQT10MS - 239 Milling Coupler Sensor Malf.

Hello,

Old granny of a machine having a 239 Milling Coupler Sensor Malf. alarm.

When I call for the live took, it attempts to actuate the live tool and then almost instantly goes to alarm. It seems to happen every time within a second or two of trying to actuate the live tool. (It was previously random in which once in a while the live tool would work).

I took the turret cover off and see the two switches. They both were pretty dirty. Cleaned them up and unfortunately same alarm. I had hopes!

Based on what I am seeing, one of these switches must be faulty or on the edge of failing. From my reading, it is my understanding that the machine is looking
at both switches for feedback. For example, one switch must 'make' and the other must 'break'. I am not sure this is accurate. It does not appear
as though these are adjustable as far as the mounting bracket goes. Based on my explanation above, it seems like like the switch is failing/failed or it is on the edge of the switch.

Does anyone know how I should test these to verify which switch could be bad?

I pulled them out so that I have access to them. When I start the live mill tool with them out, it is 'hunting'. I put a wrench in front of the upper
switch an nothing happens. I put in front of the lower switch and the alarm comes back. So, it tells me that the lower switch is probably OK. But, I am
not sure what I should be seeing from the upper switch. I would assume that when actuating the live tool that it is looking for it to go from a 'made' condition to a 'break' condition.

Any recommendations on how to test these to verify the upper switch is bad? Or, any other ideas as to what the problem might be?

Finally, where in the world do I find the proper switch for this? I think this would be a standard prox switch, but would be nice to find one on the shelf locally. If I replace one, I will probably replace both while I am in there.

I have attached a picture for reference. Thanks a bunch for the help!

Regards,
Mike

Hi Mike. It is looking for one to be made and one not. If I remember correctly you can use a wench, or any piece of steel to see if they are working. Mine have lights on the side of them for when they are made. If you hold the wrench too close it will not work correctly. I think it wants to be 2mm away, but thats just from memory. If you have a build up of gunk in the spring that is around the shaft, it can not extend the drive shaft to make the switch. If you air pressure is not high enough, you may not be able to overcome the spring to get the shaft into the fully engaged position, so try turning up your air pressure also.