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Slant 40 Hydrualic System Issue

Team_Olympus

Plastic
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Recently put in an Older Slant 40n-ATC M/C for some work. Machine is up an running but all of sudden we went to turn on and when you hit the power button the machine sounded like it was fighting something and the hydraulic pump wouldn't turn on, it would just hum. Checked a few things and 3 phase was stable at 235 on each leg. Took the motor in and had it complete rebuilt and gone through and they said it looked like it lost a leg and shorted. Not 100% but its completely rebuilt inside and out. Set back up fired up an the same issue. I cant seem to track down an Electrical diagram to start digging for the issue. checked voltage at the pump and getting 85/165/85 which is odd to me but I don't know what it is looking for so I cant speak to that being correct or wrong.
Tried calling around for a service tech and they are booked 2 months out so that a bust.

Any help or advice. Anybody have a Manual with full electrical break down they want to sell or supply.

Id like to check through the contactor or any relays or really just understand the power supply system as a whole.

I know which contactor it is and breaker and it throw the thermal fault. I don't want to start probing around and damage something in inadvertently.

Thanks in Advance.
 
disconnect the motor wires coming out of bottom of hydraulic contactor (to protect motor)
turn it on
check voltage top and bottom of contactor
on a machine of this vintage a contactor with the guts burned up would be my first suspect from description givin
 
OK so a few weeks later here we are.

Hydraulic motor rebuilt - New Contractor ( One leg was burned )

Tested everything before firing up the machine and when you manual push the contactor it will cycle the pump correctly and build pressure.

When I turn the machine on the contactor does not close now. When you feel where it is suppossed to close is almost feels like it is pushing it open and away. You can manually close it but its weird. The way it feels it is like the magnet is somehow reversed polarities. Weird I know.

Swapped in a new thermal switch for good measure and no change.

Trying to find an electrical manual diagram for this machine and its been difficult.

Any inputs on whats going on here?
 
are you sure you have the right voltage coil on the contactor?
is there a damaged ice cube up stream that holds that coil in (machine ready?)
 
Yeah after looking into it I am thinking the Magnet is wrong. I took some readings and I am getting 98V to the contactor. This tells me that I need the 110 Version of the Ca3-16-01

I am pretty sure I got the 220 Version.

This would make sense why it wouldn't close and its not getting enough power. I did not realize there were multiple versions and I'm betting I assumed it needed the 220.

Going to verify which we bought and buy the 110.
 
Overnighted the 110 and they sent the 190V lol.... just couldn't win there!

They overnighted the correct 110 and had it the next day!
super happy to report we are up and running again!
Everything is working and time to learn some more and get turning on the machine!

Thanks for brainstorming and helping solve the issue.
 
Same exact thing happened to me on a real early Mazak CNC lathe I used to own. It was 10 degrees inside my shop and the hydraulic pump just couldn't handle that. When the motor let the smoke out it took out the contactor feeding it and a slew of other stuff. I swapped motors, replaced 2 contactors and it still didn't work so I hooked the pump straight to the on/off breaker and ran it that way for a couple more years. (I forgot I rigged it like that until I scrapped it out and saw my emergency fix still in there).

I remember when I was troubleshooting the motor failure I was thinking Mazak definitely did not design the electrical system correctly to power the hydraulic motor. There was significant damage from that motor failing. None of the heaters tripped.
 
ive always figured it was that type/vintage of IEC starters that was responsible for alot of the damage
most builders have gone away from that thermal bolted directly below contactor with only an aux contact that drops in the thermal to pull power.
it was a low budget reply to a much more robust Nema device that just wasn't up to task.
now days they mostly use the manual motor starter type overload above the contactor

6559k63p1-d01c-digital@1x_637098984984145751.jpg


much better system
if im rebuilding a failed system and have the room i always convert to that sort of build
much better for trouble shooting also, you can just flip the starter on and off without monkeying around pulling coil wires
 








 
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