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Thread: B&A Precision

  1. #5221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Did you jist helicoil the back side, or use sumpthin' a bit more robust for repeated use?
    Like a threaded sleeve?

    How 'bout under the head?
    Did you use a hardened worsher?
    Or maybe even a hardened shouldered sleeve that presses/slips down inside the upper bore a bit?

    I have some fixtures that (when in use) we maybe tighten/loosen maybe 15 times a day.
    These are 1/4-20 SHCS's in 4140 PH, and either tightening by hand with a T handle allen wrench, or a light hit with a 3/8 batt powered drill with low trq setting.
    All too frequently I need to pull those wedges all back off and run a drill back through the holes to open them back up as they mushroom down in, even in the harder material with only medium torque.

    So - kind'a wonderin' how yours were set up this way, or even what Steve does with theirs?
    OR - maybe just what troubles you've had in regards to this in production?

    I can see that Steve has at least a worsher under his, but .. maybe it's a sleeve?
    The hex head likely is more better to keep chips from gathering up in the socket head...


    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    All from McMastercarr:
    91731A058 ~ 5/8-11 stainless threaded insert
    91251A814 ~ 5/8-11 x 5" cap-screw
    7814K25 ~ 5/8 I.D. bronze thrust bearing (its just a worsher!)

    Never had an issue with any of it. Many thousands of cycles, not one flinch.
    Apparently coolant is a fine lube for a black-oxide screw in stainless threads? It all still looks brand new. They were getting torqued to 40lb/ft.
    I was worried about fines finding their way through the slits in to the center hole the 5/8" screw goes through. That never even happened.
    Those things worked far better than I had even hoped!

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  3. #5222
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    91731A058 ~ 5/8-11 stainless threaded insert


    Well, for whatever reason - the pic won't load, but you can click the link....

    [img]https://www.mcmaster.com/mvb/library...t%20metall.gif[/img]


    Yeah ... those ....


    I ran some alum hydraulic housings a cpl yrs ago that got some of those stuffed down in them.
    I recall having to open the bore up on the alum thread a bunch to let the insert drop in.
    They seemed awfully cheesy to me....

    But I guess you're having good luck with them eh?

    Is there any way to git them back out to replace?
    If I recall - don't you beat those tabs down into the base metal to lock in place?


    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  4. #5223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    I recall having to open the bore up on the alum thread a bunch to let the insert drop in.
    They seemed awfully cheesy to me....

    But I guess you're having good luck with them eh?

    Is there any way to git them back out to replace?
    If I recall - don't you beat those tabs down into the base metal to lock in place?


    ----------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Yea, I always thread-mill for them. Comp to fit. Tap never gives a good fit.
    I have never had to remove one.
    But, the sentiment from a bunch of guys last time this subject came up in here was: interpolate them out with an end-mill.

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  6. #5224
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    Yea, I always thread-mill for them. Comp to fit. Tap never gives a good fit.
    I have never had to remove one.
    But, the sentiment from a bunch of guys last time this subject came up in here was: interpolate them out with an end-mill.
    Ya, a keensert (trademark/company name?) is a whole different animal to remove than an helicoil...

  7. #5225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Is there any way to git them back out to replace?
    If I recall - don't you beat those tabs down into the base metal to lock in place?
    We use Keenserts a lot in aerospace. The procedure for removal is to drill into it 1/3rd the way down with a drill size just large enough to expose the locking tabs. You then take a sharp punch and knock the locking tabs inward to the center of the insert releasing them from the parent material. After that you can take an Easy Out and simply wind the insert back out of the threaded hole.

    We have some really experienced guys who can remove and replace Keenserts on finished assemblies in no time and make it look easy. I'm always nervous when I have to do it because the assemblies can be worth upwards of $100k and I don't want to make a mistake.

  8. #5226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post


    I ran some alum hydraulic housings a cpl yrs ago that got some of those stuffed down in them.
    I recall having to open the bore up on the alum thread a bunch to let the insert drop in.
    They seemed awfully cheesy to me....

    But I guess you're having good luck with them eh?

    Is there any way to git them back out to replace?
    If I recall - don't you beat those tabs down into the base metal to lock in place?
    They have a larger tap drill size than a standard thread of the same size.
    To remove them, you just drill them out with the specified drill size.

    2020_Carr_Lane_Catalog

    FYI there are thin and thick wall, so double check prior to drilling.

    I prefer them 10x more than helicoils.

  9. #5227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post


    I ran some alum hydraulic housings a cpl yrs ago that got some of those stuffed down in them.
    I recall having to open the bore up on the alum thread a bunch to let the insert drop in.
    They seemed awfully cheesy to me....

    But I guess you're having good luck with them eh?

    Is there any way to git them back out to replace?
    If I recall - don't you beat those tabs down into the base metal to lock in place?
    They have a larger tap drill size than a standard thread of the same size.
    To remove them, you just drill them out with the specified drill size.

    2020_Carr_Lane_Catalog

    FYI there are thin and thick wall, so double check prior to drilling.

    I prefer them 10x more than helicoils.


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