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  1. #201
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    Removing part of the rear of the block, for the through coolant:
    Wait .. what?

    Did you forget your place while posting and skipped on past "the rest of the story"?


    ------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  2. #202
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    Ox,

    For the “through coolant”, I just come out of the coolant port on the side of the blocks with a line (air hose, Loc-Line, or copper tube) to the newly-machined gap at the rear of the block, and connect directly to the back door of the tool. (As long as it has one...NPT style...lol)

    The Mazak QT turret design only has about 3/8” clearance between the rear of the blocks and the turret box itself.

    By machining about an inch off the rear of the blocks, it provides just enough clearance to sneak a coolant line in.

    ToolCat

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  4. #203
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    Oh.....

    Mine have caps that bolt onto the back and have coolant plumbed to that - that way you can drown a holder that doesn't have pipe threads too.

    Most any boring bar ends up gitt'n cut down to a useable length and loses it's thread anyhow....

    What I have done on holders similar to yours is to drill the coolant bore that you have coming out the front - all the way through the back wall to hit the cap.
    Only need to doo one side in this case...

    You must be deleting the balls anyhow (and tapping out to NPT) if you are going to be running a line from one of those ports to the back?


    ----------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  5. #204
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    Ox,

    In addition to the two “eyeballs” in front, Mazak blocks have an NPT port on the side of the base, (between the two mounting bolts).

    For coolant-through, I plug the eyeballs with golf tees (newer ones are tapped for plugging with a bolt), and use the side NPT port to feed the coolant line going to the back.

    Cut-off boring bars and other tools without an NPT on the rear get sprayed by the eyeballs, or copper line coming out of the side port.

    Have I mentioned how much of a pain-in-the-derričre coolant setups can be on older Mazak QT’s?! CNCToolCat's Cat-House

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  7. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnctoolcat View Post
    The Mazak QT turret design only has about 3/8” clearance between the rear of the blocks and the turret box itself.
    ToolCat
    My O&H has the same damn issue!


    Quote Originally Posted by cnctoolcat View Post
    Ox,

    In addition to the two “eyeballs” in front, Mazak blocks have an NPT port on the side of the base, (between the two mounting bolts).
    Cut-off boring bars and other tools without an NPT on the rear get sprayed by the eyeballs, or copper line coming out of the side port.
    Have I mentioned how much of a pain-in-the-derričre coolant setups can be on older Mazak QT’s?! CNCToolCat's Cat-House
    I feel your pain! LOL
    Only thing I don't like about my lathe.

  8. #206
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    img_0829.jpg
    For what it's worth, we drilled and tapped a new hole into the rear of the bore that we can connect to the existing NPT port to flood the pocket kinda like our older QT15. Then we just plugged the rear of the bore with a simple 1-1/2" freeze plug.

  9. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    My O&H has the same damn issue!




    I feel your pain! LOL
    Only thing I don't like about my lathe.
    lol, same. Can't have to much hanging out back. Found that out quick CNCToolCat's Cat-House

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  10. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by J&H View Post
    img_0829.jpg
    For what it's worth, we drilled and tapped a new hole into the rear of the bore that we can connect to the existing NPT port to flood the pocket kinda like our older QT15. Then we just plugged the rear of the bore with a simple 1-1/2" freeze plug.
    Freeze plug. That's genius right there!

  11. #209
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    As best I could deduce, the shop that owned the QT28 prior to me ran small parts, cutting them off from bar stock.

    Well, with no parts catcher on the machine, the parts were free to fly anywhere and everywhere inside, and after some years of doing this the machine’s door was beat all to crap!

    After some judicious pounding to get the door as flat as I could, it was time to fill, sand, and paint:



    I use trusty JBWeld for body filler:



    I had some “Mazak Cream” paint left over from rebuilding and painting the QT20 about 12 years ago, so what the heck, let’s spray it:





    I use a 1/4” polycarbonate and a 1/4” piece of safety glass sandwiched together for machine windows, with the harder glass on the inside.

    And there’s nothing like trusty black polyurethane caulk to secure the window sheets to each other, and to the door. No hardware needed, because once the poly caulk sets up, it’s there for the ages.

    Proper cleaning is critical of course, and I had the window pieces cut several inches larger the the opening in the door, to allow plenty of surface area for the caulk.





    A little weight and clamps for a couple days, as the poly caulk is slow to cure:



    She’s not perfect, but after some basic refurbishing, the door is ready for service:



    Next up is the mist collector install...


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