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  1. #41
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    Tonight's progress on the table. Mostly all tacked up, have to get a new setup in the lathe tomorrow and then I should be able to weld er up while thats running.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JP Machining View Post
    Well I figured its time to start a proper shop thread seeing as I will get old waiting for Wrustle or Ox to finish theirs

    .............

    and probably sooner than wrustle updates, lol

    You, Sir, are a Hoser!


    Looks like lot'sa readin' to catch up here.



    -------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by JP Machining View Post
    Tonight's progress on the table. Mostly all tacked up, have to get a new setup in the lathe tomorrow and then I should be able to weld er up while thats running.
    Are you building this all out of you head or did you create a set of drawings to see how it was going to fit together?
    What size is that Hobart? I have been looking at welders.
    Looks great so far!

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    Hobart is an Ironman 230, works good for what I use it for, mostly for our own farm stuff. Also have a Miller econotig that does stick and tig, would like to replace them someday with a inverter welder that does all 3.

    I drew up plans for the frame so it would be a bit easier to figure out how much steel I needed, and the gantry is kind of out of my head, though I have lots of pictures saved from around the net of what I want to build.

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    I still don't know why they don't make an inverter that has high frequency so it can really do all three. All the inverters I have seen are still scratch start for TIG, so no way to weld aluminum.

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    Ewlsey,

    Check out the Miller Dynasty TIG welders. I have been running a Dynasty 200 for many years, mostly in aluminum. I never need to scratch start. Ever. Just hit the pedal and start welding. This is a powerful welder. I have gotten very good welds on aluminum much thicker than one might hope to do with 200 amps by using the frequency and balance controls, a 1/8" electrode, and some preheat. This is a really great machine!!! THe new Dynasty welders have somewhat higher maximum current. They are pricey, but well worth it. A joy to use!

    Michael

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    Awesome thread, thanks for sharing

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    You have some very innovative and clever ideas.
    Watching the plasma table come together will be interesting.
    What controller will you use?


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    Will be a Candcnc MP3500 THC run by Mach3

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    Quote Originally Posted by ferretlegger View Post
    Ewlsey,

    Check out the Miller Dynasty TIG welders. I have been running a Dynasty 200 for many years, mostly in aluminum. I never need to scratch start. Ever. Just hit the pedal and start welding. This is a powerful welder. I have gotten very good welds on aluminum much thicker than one might hope to do with 200 amps by using the frequency and balance controls, a 1/8" electrode, and some preheat. This is a really great machine!!! THe new Dynasty welders have somewhat higher maximum current. They are pricey, but well worth it. A joy to use!

    Michael
    I just checked out a Dynasty 350, that is one serious welder, $9100.00 at Praxair in columbus though!

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    Can the dynasty do MIG? I thought it was just a TIG machine.

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    Envious of those saw horses.

    Might have to copy!

    Brent

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    Quote Originally Posted by Antarctica View Post
    Envious of those saw horses.

    Might have to copy!

    Brent
    lol, yeah I built them plenty heavy too... The outer tube has 2 holes which don't match the spacing of the inner tube, iirc I can adjust ht by 1/2" increments. They are only 5' wide so I had to tack some pallet rack beams on to do the table fab on. The tops are 6" channel, with bolt holes into the tops of the inner tubes, with the flat head bolts but in slightly loose, so that it can wiggle a bit for ht adjustments. If the bolts were tight the top would have to go up perfectly straight to adjust ht. The pins were some remnants of 4130 I had laying on the shelf not sure what 4x the shear strength of a 1/2" round is but its plenty. I figured I could always screw a 2x6 to the tops too for wood work someday.

    A little better pic of them

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    Really nice sawhorses - looks like a great little fab project. It looks like they are all 2 inch square tube? What about the pics that the uprights slide and pin in? Is that 3 inch?

    Like the idea of the two sets of holes for 1/2 inch adjustment.

    Stupid question probably, but I might as well ask - got a drawing?

    Very cool. I gotta have me a pair of them beasts. Looks like they would work well when I have to split my tractor in half for a bearing seal in the future.

    Brent

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    Whats with the big liquid tote in the background? Is that for coolant?

    Brent

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    It has the top cut off and is used for aluminum chips, when I get 2 totes full I haul them in and make a couple bucks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Antarctica View Post
    Really nice sawhorses - looks like a great little fab project. It looks like they are all 2 inch square tube? What about the pics that the uprights slide and pin in? Is that 3 inch?

    Like the idea of the two sets of holes for 1/2 inch adjustment.

    Stupid question probably, but I might as well ask - got a drawing?

    Very cool. I gotta have me a pair of them beasts. Looks like they would work well when I have to split my tractor in half for a bearing seal in the future.

    Brent
    The frame work is 2", inner telescopes are 2-1/2" and outers are 3". Just don't weld the top channel to the inner tubes or you won't like adjusting it. If I unbolted the channel from the top it would look like a pair of jack stands kind of. Max length of inner tubes is just less than your min ht.

    The holes in the inners are 1" apart and the 2 holes in the outers are 1-1/2" apart. Being 1" apart on the inners it may not hurt to go a bit thicker wall there, I think mine are only 1/4". The lower section of 3" outer needs a pretty good chamfer on it and could actually be 3/16" wall there so the inner can freely fall into it, the top sections need to be 1/4" to match the inner tubes. The 2" is all 1/8" wall so they are light enough for one guy to move around but its nicer with 2 guys.

    No drawing, I think I had the idea in my head and just winged it, I'm one of those types that can visualize stuff pretty well so it usually works out.

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    Little bit more done today. The pieces of tube sticking out the side are what the long tube for the rotary pipe support will be welded to. Also since the table top is about 38" high these will also have tray bolted to them for a platform to stand on to get parts off the table a bit easier.

    Weld some plates on for the feet and I can think about flipping it over to figure out a few more things like the tool box mount and elec cabinet

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  21. #59
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    Got a little bit more done this weekend. Tomorrow I have to take a break and get some parts finished and out of the shop.

    Got it flipped over, toolbox mounted, electrical cabinet skeleton in (could probably hold up a small family of elephants but hey, it adds rigidity to the whole thing too), rotary support guide on and shelf for rotary on.

    Can also see I laid the gantry channel on top about where it will be left to right. It should have about 9-10" of clearance under it when done


    The shelf for the rotary;
    If anything its a bit low, but I can always make a riser, harder to make shorteners.


    I'll have to spend some time cleaning up a few welds to make them pretty for paint later. Next will be to finish the arm for the control console, and then hopefully the linear rails will be here this week. Should also be getting the tank and table pieces from the fab shop sometime this week as well.

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  23. #60
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    Quite a beast. How you gonna move it?

    Brent


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